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2002 f250 7.3 stock... More power options??

7K views 35 replies 10 participants last post by  REVIVED 
#1 ·
So my 2002 f250 7,3 is currently under the knife for oil leaks on the top side... so far.... here is what im doing while its torn down.
new ebp & line
new ipr
new icp
new hpop lines
new hpop seals
new turbo seals
new turbo pedistal seals
new boots

should i do any other preventative parts???


I figured since im doing the work myself and saving in labor why not upgrade and get some power...

can anyone help with suggestions, i do not plan on upgrading internals and it being a 2002 PMR, i still want reliablity with any performance gains.

so far ive decided on also doing
4 inch turboback
should i do the up pipes now also?????


what else can i do to add power turbo,turbo wheel,cai,tuner??????

thanks all for your input! truck has 135,000 miles....
 
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#3 ·
Preventive maintenance -> Failure Prevention Thread - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

Basic Performance - Breathing In & Out (exhaust/intake) and some tuning will do So Much for so little (compared to what the next steps are). Up pipes gain nothing but preventive maintenance if yours aren't leaking now ~ depends on your budget. Compressor wheel is a great idea, again depends on your budget. Remember this is the time to put in Gauges too (with the tuning).

PMR rods aren't really issue, they're not breaking. Right now you're looking at a couple of grand of improvements and unless you really need more than that (like another 4-5K) they'll be fine...
 
#4 ·
what would be considered to be the best upgrades at ths stage, pretty much without blowing the bank on injectors/pumps and running stock hpop/fuel pump.

can you guys suggest me a proven setup with guages/intake/turbo upgrade/exhaust/tuner... i find alot of threads but alot of them are old im just curious as to what the latest go to setup would be for a basic addon package. ive seen so many differnt wheels and compressor housings i dont know whats best for my truck?
 
#5 ·
for a performance chip, either the php hydra, or a ts chip with hydra
tunes on it. the ts transmission tuning bring serious suck, so may as
well get something with a good trans tune on it.

this is the billet wheel i used. my results are a bit sku'd due to needing
up pipes and a turbo rebuild, but went from roughly 7psi tops, to 24psi
on a mild tune setting.

Riffraff Diesel Billet Compressor Wheel 94-03
 
#6 ·
There's no magic formula, nothing new & ground breaking for an engine that's not been made in 15yrs :wink[3]:

I've already answered your question though, EX/In & tuning gets you 80% there.

I make 30lbs boost with a stock turbo and stock wheel (pre-99 WW @$70) in my '02 w/PHP tuning (w/EBPV unmodded). MBRP 4" Exhaust w/muffler, Ford's AIS Filter IN, PHP tuning 80hp DD, ISS Pro Gauges and it all made a WORLD of difference over stock.

Injectors? Pump? What are your goals? You want to go that far you need a Trans and Deep Pockets. Then you might need to change the rods...
 
#7 · (Edited)
well guys, i basically wanna make this truck as powerful as possible while remaining as stock as possible.

ive read tuners are the workhorse and brains of the upgrade and decided on 100% doing a tuner (dp,hydra not read enough to decide yet)

i see so many different choices for turbo upgrades im getting confused. i found a banks big head wastegate,exhaust housing and then i see on ebay kits to upgrade stock turbo with just a wheel. im just confused on what to order, and these parts go on and work as smoothly as possible. im not looking for huge gains just basic add ons like suggested. and trying to figure out best options out there.

so what would be best
hydra chip check
4 inch turbo back check
best basic gauge setup
ebpv delete????
turbo???
cai???
parts to make this all work?
do i need a boost fouler or something like the biggboost, wastegate,housings? or just a wheel

i also heard if i do this i should drill my fuel fittings larger to accomdate and have less restriction for the added air going into th engine.
 
#9 ·
My main question is the turbo upgrade part of this, what should I do to my turbo and or add anything else to make this all safe AND FOR MAX GAINS. I assume the wheel alone is all I need or should I add a wastegate like the banks or are there others anyone would suggest me to get?
 
#11 ·
sounds good, so ill rebuild and clean my turbo install the riff raff wheel, do new up pipes, 4 inch turbo back, ebpv delete, which tuner should I go with now since that's squared away? should I also get a boost fouler or is that not needed?

I don't want any codes thrown either so I assume I just have to plug my old ebpv connector in to the old plug removed from the old pedestal.
 
#12 ·
TS 6 POS CHIP: cheaper but you need to remove the chip and send it in for upgrades. kind of a pita.

php hydra- you can upload tunes from your laptop and never have to remove the chip for an extra $7 usb extension cable, plus if you ever load a anti theft/no start tune you can set it and take the selector out of the truck.

dp-tuner cost most then the ts 6 pos chip and php hydra combined and nothing against them but that's outrageous for tunes that aren't any better then powerhungry performance.


you should get a php hydra and enjoy it :)
 
#13 · (Edited by Moderator)
you can buy an el cheapo version of the ts chip off of amazon or
whatever, then send it in to get burned with 6 hydra tunes, which
runs $100 for a reburn. that way you'll have more setting than
you would need, plus the good trans tunes that comes from php.
or, you can do what justin outlined as well. really up to you.

riffraff sells a dummy plug that prevents soft codes once you do
the ebpv delete...
 
#14 ·
I had the banks turbo upgrade. All it is is a 1.0 exhaust housing and wheel. I would just keep the stock housing and get a billet wheel and I think you will be happy. If you really want to upgrade the exhaust housing you can get one cheaper than what banks sells it. You don't need the wastegate. I had the Big Head and ended up selling it when i sold the banks exhaust housing. I now have a stock on on the truck. One thing with the big head wastegate is the nipple where the red tube attaches is too large for the stock red tube so you have to stretch it out and it is a pain to get on and off. If you want to rebuild it that is kind of up to you. Yours may have a little life left but mine went at about 180,000 i think. It may be easier to do it now why it is out.
 
#15 ·
I have the php hydra and highly reccomend it. You should get gauges before you add a chip, I have the auto meter z series which are the cheapest of the auto meter lineup and haven't had any problems in three years. The riff raff billet wheel is a good idea as well as the fuel rail crossover. Get the 6637 kit with the Donaldson blue filter and do a ccv reroute while you are in there. I am very happy with the way my truck runs with the stuff that's in my signature.
 
#16 ·
ebay item #121378345828]Powerstroke 7.3L Turbo SPX 7+7 Billet Compressor Wheel

I changed a few items please give me some insight, i assume the wheel is a go to so i want to do it.

i love a loud whine, so is this wheel a good upgrade?


here is my list of upgrades let me know if i should change anything
TURBO REBUILD KIT WITH COMPRESSOR WHEEL (IS THIS A GOOD PART?--->ebay item #121378345828]Powerstroke 7.3L Turbo SPX 7+7 Billet Compressor Wheel
glowshift gauges TRANS TEMP,EGT,BOOST 3 POD PILLAR
(RIFF RAFF )AIH DELETE W/BOOST GUAGE TAP
4 INCH STRAIGHT PIPE TURBOBACK (DIAMOND EYE)
EPBV DELETE (GARRET OEM)
ITP BOOST ANNIHILATOR
TS6 CHIP (DUE TO LOW PRICE)
CAI (I HAVE NO IDEA YET NEED HELP HERE)
ALSO DO YOU GUYS THINK MY STOCK 135K BOOTS ARE STILL OK TO USE?
 
#17 · (Edited)
I have not heard anything about that company selling the stuff on eBay. Im gonna guess that eBay wheel is a cheap Chinese one. Here is what a good billet wheel is going to cost by itself. You don't want a cheap chinese one.

CNC Fabrication LLC, Diesel Performance, DIESELSITE WICKED WHEEL® 2 FOR THE GARRETT BALLBEARING POWERMAX

Here is what a rebuild kit is gonna cost

CNC Fabrication LLC, Diesel Performance, GARRETT GTP/TP38 360* BEARING TURBO REBUILD KIT GAR-GTP/TP38-360RK

I would not buy a combo wheel rebuild kit for 199. Maybe @Corey@CNCFAB more insight on the wheel and kit.

Im would just clean up the boots and as long as they aren't torn or have holes I would think they would be ok for a little while.
I don't know if you need the IPT Boost Annihilator? I am assuming it is a boost fooler. I don't have one and i am hitting about 35 PSI with no issue of it defueling. at least that i can tell and it doesn't loose power when it goes that high. Im assuming the PHP tunes take care of that issue.
 
#18 ·
@Corey@CNCFAB can get you all those parts. Like said above. I would pay the little bit extra and get a good billet wheel like the kc turbos one.
Don't get glow shift. Pay the money now for good gauges. Glow shift are know to be inaccurate and don't last long.
Don't really need the boost fooler
Get the ts6 chick from Corey with php tunes. They are much better tunes.
Cai. You could always just do the 6637 filter. Or step up to an s&b.
Your boots should be fine.
 
#19 ·
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#21 ·
I been doing research for the last few days, and i feel like im going crazy.

ive read the wheels are good and ive read the wheels are bad, then i found a ats compressor housing that works with a stock turbo wheel that is said to make more power and help surge due to a 4 inch inlet i gave that thought and it makes sense considering i wont have to worry about shaft balance if i keep my stock wheel and rebuild my turbo and add a ats housing and a 4 inch straight pip diamond eye.


would anyone like to give me some insight?

i also read good reviews about 38r turbo but i doubt thats my best option without wanting to go for fuel/trans/pumps upgrades anytime soon.
 
#22 ·
No need for the ats housing just put a billet wheel in the stock turbo and housing and if you want more later upgrade to a better turbo. I would never buy anything from Banks or ATS way overpriced and there are better options out there. I have the 4" diamond eye and haven't had any issues with it after three years.
 
#23 · (Edited)
I went to tear my turbo down for a rebuild today in prep for rebuild and i really think im just going to leave it and not rebuild it as the ebpv plate bolts are a PITA to removed from being heat and cooled hey are on there tight as ****, I did add a nice touch by repainting my pedistal, and turbo with VHT high temp paint and cleaned everything up to look like new and i am impressed with that turnout... most im gonna do is yank the wheel for a swap out for one of these wheels if i can find a good reason too. some say, we lose whistle and lose power others say theres is super loud and gained power.... im so confused by how many freaking wheels there are seems like everyone just wants a peice of the $$$$ and nobody really explains the gains of each wheel.

So, i think all im going to do is a S&B instake, HYDRA CHIP, 4" Diamond Eye Exhaust, Glow Shift Gauges

Do you think i should 100% do a wheel even if my stock wheel is in great shape? Will i atleast get a nice loud whistle louder then stock?

whats your experiance and changes with your RR wheel? is thata go to wheel thats been tested?

How do you like your riff raff wheel and hydra chip how much of a power difference do you get???? Im sure this will be the only upgrade to the truck i do engine wise so i want to do it once and once only while the turbo is removed. After this is done im moving onto lift,wheels,body work,lights and ****....
 
#24 ·
The riff raff wheel improved spool up and got rid of the turbo surge. With the hydra chip on 140 I can hit 32 psi of boost which is right on the edge of what the factory turbo can handle. You will notice a huge difference in power if you do the turbo wheel, hydra chip, intake and exhaust. The php hydra also has much better transmission tuning than the standard ts chip.
 
#27 ·
You should go ahead and get the crank case vent kit from riffraff as well. It keeps the oil out of your intercooler and boots.
 
#29 ·
Hi @corey@cncfab

I'm looking to order intake plenum preferably with o ring style gaskets, aih delete code remover harness,complete boot set (I'm going to use my stock clamps), and the best wheel upgrade out that will make my turbo louder and add power...anything else you suggest.

I also need a few more o rings for my fuel bowl, seems my kit didn't include the seal for the drain valve piston or the seal for the fuel pressure regulator.

I ordered valve cover gaskets,hydra,bunch of new sensors,oil pump & fuel bowl/line seals,why,trams,boost gauges,4 inch exhaust already

Thank you
 
#30 ·
I dont have the billet plenums with the oring gaskets. FYI, I have a set of these and the orings suck. I still had to RTV mine. I have AIH delete plugs, the boot set I carry are BD Diesel and they come with new clamps anyway, I carry the KC Turbo billet wheel, I dont have the individual orings for the rest of what you need. Only the complete fuel bowl rebuild kit from Diesel-o-rings.
 
#31 ·
To the OP. A billet wheel is a must imo. I gained a couple lbs of boost, more whistle which is nice cause stock these don't produce much imo. And removed all turbo surge.
@Corey@CNCFAB if I were to do the ebpv delete is it recommended to do that larger outlet as well?
 
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