Need Help Build Motor

[fordassassin]

Got a 2002 F-350 with 7.3.. Long story short, the block cracked and the front end needs to be replaced + block.

So we had a 99 block that has been blueprinted, balanced, ported/polished. Mahle coated Piston, rods have been aligned straightened and peen. It already has head studs ,and fire ringed on the head side.

My question is, where do I find some good prices on Valve Springs & Push rods & Return regulator and return?

This is what the 2002 motor had on it that has been taking off the truck.

• 38r
• Terminator dual pumps
• Raptor 150
• big hose going inside fuel tank
• Stage 2 split shot Industrial Injection stixs
• BTS transmission
• PowerHungry tuning
• ATS Co-Pilot for lock up
• Truck is already geared and lockers

[fordassassin]

I have 2 turbo's for the truck

1. Big Bad Wolf
2. 38r

Which one should I use? I like to keep the 38r, but I am wanting to bump up injectors because they are roughly 80-100hp stixs. Industrial Injection said to send them in and get them bumped to stage 3 injectors or 230cc. I don't think the 38r will hold up with the injectors. Maybe Procharge it?

What injectors to run with a 38r and procharger? Will add Nitrous or Water/Meth if EGT's start getting out of control.

[Speedyboy487]

Exactly what rods are you using.

[gtspowerstroke]

Before you just go buy valve springs do some research. Call Crane or Comp and tell them what your cam lift is, how much boost you plan to run, what your valve diameter is, and what RPM you plan to run and they will tell you how much seat pressure and over the nose pressure you'll need. Then you'll need to find out what the seat valve spring height it as well as what the over the nose height it. That will give you what spring rates you need. Then go find a spring accordingly. With a build that like the worst advice is "just throw some Comp 910 springs in it!" You NEED to set it up properly or you'll have valves kissing pistons. Trust me I know from experience!

As for the pushrods Smith Brothers has some hardended pushrods and they seem to have a pretty good price on them as well.

Both those turbos are fairly equal though the 38R will spool a little quicker. But if you really want to make some power with it you should ditch the whole stock set up and go with a full aftermarket setup like the H2E mounting kit with maybe a turbo from WOP or something similar.

[fordassassin]

Thank You. We are still figuring out whose CAM to run and then I can talk to Crower after I get that done.

How is the modded h2e turbo going to compete spool up wise against the 38r?

Anybody try the ATS pedestul? I talked to ATS the other day and their kit is $1,600 and after that, you can add any turbo you like. For example, like a 71 Phat Shaft or something like a A6k or A5k with a modified exhaust housing like most Cummins guys.

[fordassassin]

Anybody want to buy a slightly used 38r or big bad wolf turbo? Or partial trade for a Modded H2E with some cash.

[fordassassin]

I've been reading up on Hypermax modded h2e and Beans H2E. Beans is a 66 while Hypermax is a 71. I would think the 71 would be slower to spool bottom end and won't be good for Daily Driving. Am I correct? Even with stage 3 injectors or B code.

[blowinsmoke7.3]

With the right tuning anything is possible. Alot of people look over that

[fordassassin]

Yes, I know that and have a Dynojet 248 near me to see what the truck makes after we get done. I am waiting to see when Jody comes to Joey @ Terminator or have Hungry Power + David make a tune for my truck.

[blowinsmoke7.3]

I reccomend Matt at gearhead auto. His tunes are awesome. He runns some big a$$ sticks in his rig. I forget how big he said but I know he's movin large amounts of fuel. His truck is virtually smokeless.

Might check with him