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limited slip is horrible
how do i make the limited slip better. i want grippier than it was from the factory is that possible? is there an inexpensive web site to get the rebuild kit from.
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in order to make it better you need to get rid of the factory LS and either get a better LS like the detroit tru trac or a full locker....
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Well, since someone else is asking. I guess I will add to it. I know with the 8.8 inch differentials you can rebuild them and add an extra disc from the old setup to the limited slip to make it tighter. Does anyone know if you can do this on the 10.5 limited slip units?
-Aaron |
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what you can do is change the gear oil in the rear diff... and dont add any friction modifier and drive it... if it sticks to much then add just a little till you like how it drives and works.
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There is a differential/axle expert shop here in clearwater florida (alan's gearworks) that has been rebuilding the factory LS with "steel" clutches that apparently grip tighter and last longer, for $150 it's a cheap way to go. They utilize this same process for jeeps as well that have the factory Dana Track-Lok, which is very similar to what Ford uses in the 10.25 and 10.5 axles.
If you have the money, the best way to go is dump the factory LS and get a Detroit Locker or Detroit TrueTrac if you do a lot of towing. Hope this helps. |
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My last truck, a chevy product, had a rear positive locking locker. Yes that Eaton locker is known to explode if you're hard on it but the reason I bring it up is that it worked extremely well when towing or in snow. Say you are towing up a boat ramp or grassy hill and since you are towing you're not in 4wd and the one tire slips to bring the truck to a stop. Well the locker will lock that rear end up at low speeds to make a tractor style locked up rear end. It's great. You get the clunk and then instantly begin forward motion. No drama.
I don't like a limited slip diff that depends on a lot of wheel speed to transfer power to the dead tire. When towing and working with heavy equipment and diesels I want things to happen slowly and methodically so an automatic locker is perfect. I would look at an electric or air locker but the added complexity is not desired. |
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Truly replacement will work, but a lot of the time, another traction aid won't go on a carrier that already has one. You may have to buy an open carrier in order to put a locker in.
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You don't need to replace it, the problem is Ferd used way, way to much modifier in their LS, change the fluid and add 2 oz and take it to a large parking lot and do some tight figure eight's, if you have rear end chatter, add a nother oz and do it again. Mine took 4 oz to go away. Ferd calls for 8!! No wonder why it doesn't work. My LS works great now. It ain't no locker, but it isn't suppose to be. This is also why I don't use lubricants like Red;line and Amsoil as they have the modifier already in them and it is way on the heavy side as well.
NCH |
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Quote:
wear the discs too much going around corners, or the axel will stay locked when it is raining. |
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