I've heard you can get the gasser rheostat and it's the same thing. Rock auto has them from $100-$150.


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I guess I'd feel better if I only spent $150 for a $10 rheostat :wink[3]:

I wish I could see what one looks like to compare, or even be able to measure the resistance. You think it's the #MIPS175 you're talking about?

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OK found these, and this makes absolutely NO SENSE to me (but I admit I fee a little better about the whole "$250 thing")

Motorcraft PS-176 Fuel Sending Unit | Auto Parts Warehouse
Motorcraft PS-175 Fuel Sending Unit | Auto Parts Warehouse

 

Here is what I found on rock auto.
View attachment 325658


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OH! I Love the fact it has pictures too!

I'm guessing the 176 is the GAS version and the 175 the Diesel.

I don't think I would spend the $130 (PS176), for what still should be a LOT less, if there could actually be a reason the Diesel version added $300 to it. There just has to be some rational for the difference (although I can see NOTHING rational about Any justification for a $430 pot & float....)

Plus, if I spent even $130 and put it on my $250 unit I'd have almost $400 into it and couldn't hope to get more than $200 for it at eBay (I'd have to explain that it's a "mutt") and it seems like too much trouble to go to to net $70.

The whole thing really is a mystery to me

 

I wonder if you get the gasser version you end up with one of these. View attachment 325674
It looks just the same except there is no mixing chamber.


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looks like the one in my 06

 

I've never seen a gasser sending unit so I have no clue. So 6.0 don't have mixing chambers?


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no and as a matter of fact I just learned what a mixing chamber was a week or so ago when someone was asking about the sock on a 7.3

but for some reason the 6.0 sender is still stupid $$$

 

WOW! That looks Very much like mine (-mixer) I wonder if the rheostat could be the same? You don't currently have this out, do you?

From your pick (I wish it was the other-way-around) the platform the rheostat "clips" to looks identical. Is the tank it goes into 38gal?

Astonishingly similar looking, the ring, the umbrella, the wiring, even that red "valve" on the side.

I wonder....

 

Is that all 6.0 or just 05-07 ones? I wonder if the parts stores carry the gasser ones so you could get a reference.


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i don't know for sure if the 6.0's ever used a Mixing chamber ?? mine is an o6

 

When looking at the gasser units it says it works on tanks from 99-07. So that should mean the 6.0 units would work on 7.3 tanks. Maybe?


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i am thinking the same thing ?? i was pretty sure the tanks were the same?

i have one in the back yard from my 06 if anyone needed a measurement

 

NoRalph,
Hey there! I have the same problem as you; my fuel gauge prob reading funky. It will read lil over half but then dumps to below "E" and the gas light comes on, and then sometime later will go back to lil over half (after restarting (sometimes)... I wanted to get a sending unit to have on hand when I trbl shoot/pull the old one out. That's when I found out for the​ Diesel they ONLY sell the the complete unit (every where I look) $300, but for the Gas they have just the sending unit $150....
I've heard of guys cleaning the resistor contacts really good and bending them to make a better connection, and sometimes they'll have good success, some only works for a lil while.
My problem is I can't risk that "maybe" fix while on the road. I tow my 5th wheel camper w/the family - so guess I must bite the bullet and pay $300, so when I do get to drop the tank, I want to have that "NEW" sending unit to replace it (if that is the problem). I also purchased a 200ohm Pot to check the wiring and gauge from the tank back to the dash.
I too have done the Hutch mod and most likely will pry off the new float assembly to attach to my modified unit like you. How risky/successful were you about prying off the new float with out breaking it?

 

I'll admit it, it was a scary thought that it could break. But I was Completely successful in doing the swap and it continues to work as it should today.

You actually gain some experience prying the Old one off. It wasn't hard, as I remember, used a sm screwdriver and I was probably way more gentle than I needed to be. I don't think you'll have any trouble.

All that stuff Inside is REALLY delicate. Copper Foil to the "button" that rides on the windings, I don't see how you could retention for a better contact (mine fell-off completely). I think you just have to replace it. I wish I knew of a better alternative to do that with though. I've yet to hear if a rheostat you could get cheaper so that you could replace just that part...

 

Thank you for the quick reply - I totally agree, if I'm going that far as to drop the tank to trouble shoot and risk it still having a problem - especially for it to happen while on the road w/wife and kids broke down on side of road. And yes I've been as you said "Living with it" all winter and searching all over the web. Many having the similar issue.
The cheapest I found (recently) is Rock Auto and they're down to three left hnoes: so I JUST now cracked open the piggy bank and purchased one. (scary for what these things cost).
Well cross your fingers and hope I'm as lucky as you, I believe, like you I'll be way more gentle that needed probably, due to the ridiculous cost of these things...
THANK YOU AGAIN !

 

UPDATE - for future for anyone that has the same problem for reference:
So after finally getting time & driving the truck to empty the tank (so I thought) I got to drop the tank - which to my surprise was still like 3/4 full - uhg.... I guess I have better mileage than I thought. Any ways after dropping it I noticed the pins of the sending unit connector was a little corroded. So I cleaned them up, pulled the sending unit out to inspect & test it (note make sure to unplug the fuel pump - duh moment). Any ways, as I was manually working the sending unit, it seemed to be working ok, so I thought maybe the connector was the problem. I put everything back together checking the gauge all the time. Once I got it all back, I was ready to clean up, I checked it one more time & it happened again - fuel gauge dropped to below "E" & light came on, DAG NABIT ! So I cursed & almost ready to throw things. The next day was the start of the work week, so since I already have the "NEW" $300 sending unit I was able to search & find new SS compression fittings locally to do the hutch mod to the new unit. I figured since I got the unit, I'm going to use the whole thing. The next weekend I did the whole job again, this time with success. After having the old sending unit on the work bench I was able to take it a part to find the copper lever contact VERY flimsy, thin, & as soon as I touched it, it broke! My feeling is that this contact point was moving around (flapping around) when in the fuel... You could definitely feel the difference when moving the new lever (more resistance), compared to the old one. Well now with the new sending unit & all connectors cleaned & coated with dielectric grease, it's working - so far so good !

 

Would a $10 rheostat be resistant to submersion in diesel fuel for 15 years and 250,00 miles of fill-ups, sloshing, and off-road use?