Intermittent Air conditioning problem - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 13 Old 07-22-2014, 07:02 PM Thread Starter
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Intermittent Air conditioning problem

So when I turn my switch from off to max a/c it works great for awhile then it starts blowing warm air, so when it's blowing warm air I popped the hood to find that the pump is not enguaged, now if I shut the switch back to off for a minute then try max a/c again it begins working again, so my question is my clutch bad on the pump or it's there a connector or relay I should be checking?
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post #2 of 13 Old 07-22-2014, 08:27 PM
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Could be clutch , could be low on a charge , could be the wiring pigtails shorting out. You can try bumping the clutch to see if it re-engages , the pigtails can short where the connector is , try wiggling right where the wires go into the connectors. If those don't work you need gauges to check pressures.

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post #3 of 13 Old 07-22-2014, 09:58 PM
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my a/c has been cutting out too. i had it recharged and it's still doing it, just blowing a little colder when it does work.

mine starts blowing warm when it's pretty warm outside and i've been stopped for a couple of minutes. if i move at high speed for a while or push the truck into 3000 rpms for a bit, the a/c blows cold again.

i think the difference between max a/c and a/c is that the max setting recirculates the air in the cab while regular a/c cools the air on the way into the cab.
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post #4 of 13 Old 07-22-2014, 10:38 PM
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A buddy's truck had an issue with the AC and he unplugged the connector at the compressor and jumpered the connection with a paperclip.

I don't know what that did, but it seemed to work for him

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post #5 of 13 Old 07-23-2014, 02:24 AM
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I had this problem when I got my truck 3 years ago and I took the clutch off, took a shim out, put back together and its work since.

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post #6 of 13 Old 07-23-2014, 03:30 AM Thread Starter
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I hooked a guage up to the low pressure side when the ac was on and it was in the blue charged zone, I dont have a full set of guages to monitor both sides though.
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post #7 of 13 Old 07-23-2014, 04:48 AM
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I bet the clutch is wearing out. You could either get a new one or take out one of the shims, looks like a flat washer, out of where it bolts on. Just did this on mine and clutch was grooved up a bit, but pulling out one of the shims has worked fine.

Steps I took

Use a 7-8mm, I think, socket. Turn key on with out starting with a/c on to engage clutch and hold in place while you break the bolt loose.

Once loose I shut the key off, pulled off the outside of the clutch and inside the where the bolt goes on the piece removed there will be the shim. Use a pick or similar to remove.

Put back together and engage clutch again to tighten snug. There is a gap spec between the clutch and plate but I don't recall it right now (.35mm-.75mm?). I started the engine with the a/c on and then off to make sure it is disengaging. If it does search the gap spec and make / get a shim that will achieve that.

Took longer to find the right socket than to pull out the shim and has been working great since.

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post #8 of 13 Old 07-23-2014, 06:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nitrousneil View Post
I hooked a guage up to the low pressure side when the ac was on and it was in the blue charged zone, I dont have a full set of guages to monitor both sides though.
You need a full set to check it properly. Those cans are iffy at best. Whenever I normally do AC work I do all the parts and then take it in to have a vacuum pulled to make sure there are no leaks and let the machine shoot the proper charge as I'm lacking a proper gauge setup as well since it's just not something I intend or plan on needing often. Those DIY cans have ended up causing me a problem every single time. Last month my compressor was chirping and kicking on and off ,embarrassingly so , I stopped and bought a $30 diy can. Hooked it up adjusted it for ambient temp , it said it was low and took the entire can to be at the top of the green. Problem still persisted. The next day I played around with it and discovered if I kinked the wire at the plug it quit the constant cycling and ran right. Bought a replacement pigtail at Ford for $17 or so and it works now , but I did have to go back and have some recovered to get vent temps where they should be as it was overcharged.
It made a difference of about 25 degree higher temps at the vent by overcharging it. You can go over or under by a few ounces with refrigerant and it will make a big difference in temp or even functionality.

Sold 01 350 6" on 37's and mild mods, 00 X 4" on 35's, 02 f350 4" 35's modded from fan to drive shaft, ridin the 03 with nose conversion with 125k and counting upwards slowly.
Never had CNC's poo on any of it, never will.
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post #9 of 13 Old 07-23-2014, 01:56 PM
DERAIL MOD!!!


 
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I had this problem and popped the face off, removed a shim (it's basically a washer) blows ice cold now

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post #10 of 13 Old 07-23-2014, 06:18 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the help guys, problem seems to be solved by removing the shim, gap is now at .026 and blowing ice out of the vents!
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