Intermittent Air conditioning problem - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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Old 07-22-2014, 08:02 PM
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Intermittent Air conditioning problem

So when I turn my switch from off to max a/c it works great for awhile then it starts blowing warm air, so when it's blowing warm air I popped the hood to find that the pump is not enguaged, now if I shut the switch back to off for a minute then try max a/c again it begins working again, so my question is my clutch bad on the pump or it's there a connector or relay I should be checking?
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Old 07-22-2014, 09:27 PM
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Could be clutch , could be low on a charge , could be the wiring pigtails shorting out. You can try bumping the clutch to see if it re-engages , the pigtails can short where the connector is , try wiggling right where the wires go into the connectors. If those don't work you need gauges to check pressures.
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Old 07-22-2014, 10:58 PM
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my a/c has been cutting out too. i had it recharged and it's still doing it, just blowing a little colder when it does work.

mine starts blowing warm when it's pretty warm outside and i've been stopped for a couple of minutes. if i move at high speed for a while or push the truck into 3000 rpms for a bit, the a/c blows cold again.

i think the difference between max a/c and a/c is that the max setting recirculates the air in the cab while regular a/c cools the air on the way into the cab.
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Old 07-22-2014, 11:38 PM
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A buddy's truck had an issue with the AC and he unplugged the connector at the compressor and jumpered the connection with a paperclip.

I don't know what that did, but it seemed to work for him
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Old 07-23-2014, 03:24 AM
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I had this problem when I got my truck 3 years ago and I took the clutch off, took a shim out, put back together and its work since.
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Old 07-23-2014, 04:30 AM
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I hooked a guage up to the low pressure side when the ac was on and it was in the blue charged zone, I dont have a full set of guages to monitor both sides though.
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Old 07-23-2014, 05:48 AM
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I bet the clutch is wearing out. You could either get a new one or take out one of the shims, looks like a flat washer, out of where it bolts on. Just did this on mine and clutch was grooved up a bit, but pulling out one of the shims has worked fine.

Steps I took

Use a 7-8mm, I think, socket. Turn key on with out starting with a/c on to engage clutch and hold in place while you break the bolt loose.

Once loose I shut the key off, pulled off the outside of the clutch and inside the where the bolt goes on the piece removed there will be the shim. Use a pick or similar to remove.

Put back together and engage clutch again to tighten snug. There is a gap spec between the clutch and plate but I don't recall it right now (.35mm-.75mm?). I started the engine with the a/c on and then off to make sure it is disengaging. If it does search the gap spec and make / get a shim that will achieve that.

Took longer to find the right socket than to pull out the shim and has been working great since.
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Old 07-23-2014, 07:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nitrousneil View Post
I hooked a guage up to the low pressure side when the ac was on and it was in the blue charged zone, I dont have a full set of guages to monitor both sides though.
You need a full set to check it properly. Those cans are iffy at best. Whenever I normally do AC work I do all the parts and then take it in to have a vacuum pulled to make sure there are no leaks and let the machine shoot the proper charge as I'm lacking a proper gauge setup as well since it's just not something I intend or plan on needing often. Those DIY cans have ended up causing me a problem every single time. Last month my compressor was chirping and kicking on and off ,embarrassingly so , I stopped and bought a $30 diy can. Hooked it up adjusted it for ambient temp , it said it was low and took the entire can to be at the top of the green. Problem still persisted. The next day I played around with it and discovered if I kinked the wire at the plug it quit the constant cycling and ran right. Bought a replacement pigtail at Ford for $17 or so and it works now , but I did have to go back and have some recovered to get vent temps where they should be as it was overcharged.
It made a difference of about 25 degree higher temps at the vent by overcharging it. You can go over or under by a few ounces with refrigerant and it will make a big difference in temp or even functionality.
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Old 07-23-2014, 02:56 PM
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I had this problem and popped the face off, removed a shim (it's basically a washer) blows ice cold now
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Old 07-23-2014, 07:18 PM
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Thanks for the help guys, problem seems to be solved by removing the shim, gap is now at .026 and blowing ice out of the vents!
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