anyone used por15 on their frame? - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
 
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post #1 of 8 Old 07-06-2014, 05:51 AM Thread Starter
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anyone used por15 on their frame?

I just bought some por15 black, and some por15 metal prep. Has anyone used this stuff? How does it hold up and any tricks before I start putting this stuff on my frame? My frame is not really flaky rust, but has lots of surface rust. The truck is down right now for a resto, so nows the time. Thanks for your help.

2002 f250 ccsb 4x4, 250/200's,5 inch mbrp,itp boost fooler,regulated return/race fuel system, s&b intake, billet 4r100, swamps idm, lifted 2 inches, leveled, 35inch nittos on 18" s468, mishimoto intercooler, hydra tuning, detroit locker rear, dynomat, not done.........

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post #2 of 8 Old 07-06-2014, 06:58 AM
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Most people praise the stuff, but I haven't seen good results with it. A buddy used it on an old brush truck he was restoring and most of the por15 flaked off within a couple years and what was left trapped water. Toyota also applied a similar substance to my father's frame as part of a recall and that has since chipped and flaked off.

I can't speak to what was done for preparation on either of these jobs but I would be more inclined to sand and paint it, if it were my truck
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post #3 of 8 Old 07-06-2014, 07:32 PM
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I've used it on my f350 and my jeep. Both with good results after a year to two. Just need good prep work and several coats of POR15

Kyle

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post #4 of 8 Old 07-06-2014, 08:48 PM
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I coated the frame on my 2001 with it. Granted my truck came from South Georgia and did not have any rust on it at all, but I've had POR15 on there for two years now and it's holding strong and looking good. Because I had no rust, the only prep work I did was to completely clean and degrease my entire undercarriage really well before painting.

On a side note, before I bought my truck I almost purchased a '99 from a guy that moved down from Alaska. He had coated his undercarriage in POR15 years ago, and the truck was rust free when I looked at it despite the harsh winters up there.

2001 F-250 CC SB 4x4 Off-Road w/ 88k miles on the 7.3. 4" lift on 35" BFGs. All synthetic fluids (Amsoil & Schaeffer's)
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post #5 of 8 Old 07-06-2014, 09:10 PM Thread Starter
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From what Im hearing the product is really good, but prep is most important. I think I will needle scale my frame, then wire brush it, then spray por metal prep on it and coat it. Im going to take my time getting all the loose stuff off. Thanks guys!

2002 f250 ccsb 4x4, 250/200's,5 inch mbrp,itp boost fooler,regulated return/race fuel system, s&b intake, billet 4r100, swamps idm, lifted 2 inches, leveled, 35inch nittos on 18" s468, mishimoto intercooler, hydra tuning, detroit locker rear, dynomat, not done.........

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post #6 of 8 Old 07-09-2014, 05:11 AM
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I had great results with my 71 truck and POR15. Just follow the instructions and take your time.

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post #7 of 8 Old 07-11-2014, 05:39 AM
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"Metal Ready" is an interesting product. counter-intuitive but I"ve used it with good short term results (Long term we'll see).

I prefer Ospho for metal prep on rusted stuff, especially if I have time to leave it and the area is ventilated (no puddles). You just need to degrease your part, knock off the big stuff, spray ospho on, then come back in 24/48 hours and prime/paint.

Regarding por15... meh... it's over hyped in my opinion because people try to do too much with it, but it is a very good product if used fresh and applied per instructions.

You didn't mention getting the degreaser and that is key for a frame that's seen all types of dirt and junk. You really want to purple power / simple green or TSP-pressure wash all the grease off, then metal prep (phosphate rust converter), then POR15.. if you top coat it with a chassis black you should be set up.

I like rustoleum for frames, even though it is soft it is durable for that application, flexes well, and is cheap. Add the hardener for better results

POR15 does not flow like normal paint. It goes on thick and tacky like but spreads thin and will sag easy. Make sure you protect everything under the painted area because if brushing it will likely drip.

POR15 works by forming a water-impenetrable vapor barrier between steel and the air, preventing water molecules and air molecules from contacting the steel underneath and forming rust. the metal-etch actually chemically converts rust to a stable form, or etches / zinc coates clean metal and gives better adhesion. More coats of por15 will enhance it's function. If it flakes and air/water (or ICE!) are allowed to infiltrate it will bubble like any other chassis paint. POR15 works so good because it is very durable (resists chipping / scratching), has good adhesion and it is a good vapor barrier. Compromising prep effects adhesion. putting it on too thin effects the durability / vapor barrier.

I use a mixture of bar oil and wd-40 every fall in lieu of painting and it seems to keep rust at bay.

2000 F-250 supercab short bed, 7.3, 6-speed

Last edited by bikesandcars; 07-11-2014 at 05:44 AM.
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post #8 of 8 Old 07-12-2014, 03:52 AM Thread Starter
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hey bikes and cars, good write up! Yeah I planned on degreasing it also, but you said ospho, is that a brand? and where can I get that stuff? Also you mentioned top coating the por15 with paint? just want to make sure I understand you correctly. Do you spray the oil mix on your truck frame? I would assume your using that instead of painting your frame? Hey, thanks again for your help!

2002 f250 ccsb 4x4, 250/200's,5 inch mbrp,itp boost fooler,regulated return/race fuel system, s&b intake, billet 4r100, swamps idm, lifted 2 inches, leveled, 35inch nittos on 18" s468, mishimoto intercooler, hydra tuning, detroit locker rear, dynomat, not done.........

2006 f350 ccsb 6.0, sct tuner 3015 custom tunes, studded, deleted, exhaust
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