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post #1 of 13 Old 12-10-2008, 09:21 AM Thread Starter
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Ball joints

I need ball joints and im lookin at the moogs. Summit has them for a decent price but the only uppers they have say 2wd. Are the uppers on a 2wd the same as on a 4x4? Also, how difficult are these to change, I feel like if i print out enough write ups and have a buddy there for moral support I can save myself around 300 bucks vs the shop.
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post #2 of 13 Old 12-10-2008, 09:52 AM
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Just get whatever your local store has. I've installed duralasts, moogs, some other off brand and so far so good over the passed 3 years or so on each truck.

It's a pretty easy install... make sure you have plenty of time to finish the project

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post #3 of 13 Old 12-10-2008, 10:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maintain View Post
Just get whatever your local store has. I've installed duralasts, moogs, some other off brand
yep...just did uppers / lowers on both sides of mine w/the ones from murrays.

2000 f350 ccsb 4x4
7.3 / auto / 373's
223,000 miles
muffler delete / DIY intake / dp f6
6.5" pro comp
big ol' 285's on stockers right now
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post #4 of 13 Old 12-10-2008, 10:10 AM
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they are pretty easy to change as long as you have a hydraulic press. If you dont, just take the knuckles out and bring them with your new ball joints to a shop or you'll be hating life. With a press and a few pieces of bar stock for pressing you can have the old ones out and new ones in in about 20 minutes.

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post #5 of 13 Old 12-10-2008, 10:11 AM
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i get most of my parts from murrays / autozone. i know its to each their own on preference of parts. maintenance stuff i usually get the local autoparts store parts. just picked up a rear u-joint last night from autozone.

like maintain said make sure u have plenty of time. we did my front u-joints as well at the same time.

2000 f350 ccsb 4x4
7.3 / auto / 373's
223,000 miles
muffler delete / DIY intake / dp f6
6.5" pro comp
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post #6 of 13 Old 12-10-2008, 10:17 AM
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Just did mine, it's not hard, but it would go much faster with a tool bit*h there. Just make sure you have a good breaker bar, at least in my case I encountered a few bolts that were way over-torqued (I'm guessing previous owner had a kick *** impact and didn't know what a torque wrench was).
Happy Wrenching

06' F250, 6.0L, Xl, 4x4, 3:73 Ls 4" Turbo Back,
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post #7 of 13 Old 12-10-2008, 10:20 AM
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might wanna replace hub seal and the yellow o ring if you have the automatic hubs


2001 f250
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post #8 of 13 Old 12-10-2008, 02:07 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah ill take a look at the seals and o rings while Im in there. I have another truck so if i don't get it done in one day it wont be the end of the world. Maintain, of the ball joints you installed, which did you feel were the best value for the quality of the joint?
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post #9 of 13 Old 12-10-2008, 08:18 PM
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i did mine today. ordered the kit from powerstrokeshop. it's moog. i also replaced my tires, and brake pads today as well, and changed the oil. took like 7 or 8 hours to do it all. pain in the ***, but these ones should last long. i got almost 170k out of the original, but they were starting to go at 160k. i'd get the moog. the oem ones aren't as durable.

2000 f-350 4wd.
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post #10 of 13 Old 12-10-2008, 10:02 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the knowledge guys. I want to do it on monday, Ill probably pick up a can of deep creep assuming they are pretty stuck, and i have about a 3 1/2 breaker bar so those bastards will be coming out. Goin with the moogs.
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