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post #1 of 15 Old 11-12-2008, 12:38 PM Thread Starter
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Clutch slave cylinder removal

I started on my clutch this morning and had a question on the removal of what looks to be the clutch slave cylinder. It's on the drivers side of the tranny and has a big arrow that says "LOCK" and has a little roll pin next to it.

Anyone have any info on how to get this off? Looks pretty flimsy, I don't want to break it.

Thanks.

Rob

2001 F-250 7.3 4WD CC LB,SB CON OFE clutch, DIY 6637 intake. Superior compressor, 4"SS Magnaflow
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post #2 of 15 Old 11-12-2008, 12:41 PM
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that is ur master cylnder... not slave.. .the slave is attached to the pedal.... but yes just use a big wrench to get it off.... ooo and don't worry it won't break as long as you turn it the right way...

RYAN
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post #3 of 15 Old 11-12-2008, 12:47 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks! I appreciate it.

2001 F-250 7.3 4WD CC LB,SB CON OFE clutch, DIY 6637 intake. Superior compressor, 4"SS Magnaflow
DP-Tuner:Hi idle,60T,80T,80E,120. Diprocol boost/pyro. Overboost Annihilator. Hi-Flow turbo outlet.

4" Superlift. Springs/blocks w/ Bilsteins. 315/75-16 Toyo M/T's. 35" spare underneath. Truetrac
Alpine deck, Infinity 6x8's, Kicker Comp 10", JBL 6x60 amp, 1.2 MFD cap.

Glasstite High Rise Cap. 7,800 empty weight.

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post #4 of 15 Old 11-12-2008, 12:54 PM
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no problem... ooo and if you ever need to bleed ur clucth... don't set there and pump the clutch unless u want to sit there for a couple of hours just take of the master and pump it from there

RYAN
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post #5 of 15 Old 11-12-2008, 01:03 PM
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That roll pin holds the line in place, The easiest way to bleed the clutch, is to take the master cylinder off the firewall and pull the whole complete slave cylinder master cylinder line and res out all as one and prime it outside the truck

Both the slave and master come out the same way its a 1/4 turn and it unlicks out of its keyed spot.



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post #6 of 15 Old 11-12-2008, 01:10 PM
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Originally Posted by AFBLUE View Post
That roll pin holds the line in place, The easiest way to bleed the clutch, is to take the master cylinder off the firewall and pull the whole complete slave cylinder master cylinder line and res out all as one and prime it outside the truck

Both the slave and master come out the same way its a 1/4 turn and it unlicks out of its keyed spot.
well last time I check the Master was on the tranny but anyways... when ever you have a truck to bleed the clutch in let me know and I will find one myself and see which one is faster... just undo it from the tranny and pump from there.... while sitting or laying under your truck if you have air in the clutch you can hear the bubbles going up... pump it a could of times and then go put more fuild in the reservaior.... do it till you don't hear any more bubbles... that will not take you no more than 5 mins.... so how long does it take to do it your way???

RYAN
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post #7 of 15 Old 11-12-2008, 01:11 PM
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yes sorry had that backwards with the master and slave... the slave is on the tranny... but still disconnect the slave and pump from there too many beers...

RYAN
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post #8 of 15 Old 11-12-2008, 01:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by najaf4life View Post
well last time I check the Master was on the tranny but anyways... when ever you have a truck to bleed the clutch in let me know and I will find one myself and see which one is faster... just undo it from the tranny and pump from there.... while sitting or laying under your truck if you have air in the clutch you can hear the bubbles going up... pump it a could of times and then go put more fuild in the reservaior.... do it till you don't hear any more bubbles... that will not take you no more than 5 mins.... so how long does it take to do it your way???
Yeah you are right, I replaced the slave and master at the same time so thats why I had it all out. You can just give it a few good solid strokes at the slave and bleed all the air out. The slave cylinder does have enough volume with a full stroke of it, will displace all of the clutch line.



06 CCSB Lariat 102K
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Vegistroke 75,000 miles
2.5" Readylift Level
ARP Head Studs
EGR delete
Swamps 58V FICM
Isspro Gauges, EGT, Boost, Trans.
20ft of 4" straight pipe!!
SCT X3 BAMF Innovative Xtreme Race


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post #9 of 15 Old 11-12-2008, 02:02 PM
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sorry not trying to be a smart azz just didn't want people taking the whole thing apart to bleed the thing...

RYAN
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post #10 of 15 Old 11-12-2008, 04:53 PM
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Originally Posted by najaf4life View Post
sorry not trying to be a smart azz just didn't want people taking the whole thing apart to bleed the thing...
No its cool dude, you jogged my memory and I remebered why I had the whole thing out was because I changed them both at the same time. Now I will argue to say that if you are changing the master cylinder, the only thing keeping that whole assembly from coming out is the 1/4 turn of the slave, and a plastic clip that keeps the line from rattling.



06 CCSB Lariat 102K
Factory 20s w/ Nitto Trail Grappler 35X12.5X20
Vegistroke 75,000 miles
2.5" Readylift Level
ARP Head Studs
EGR delete
Swamps 58V FICM
Isspro Gauges, EGT, Boost, Trans.
20ft of 4" straight pipe!!
SCT X3 BAMF Innovative Xtreme Race


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