Clutch slave cylinder removal

[najaf4life]

Originally Posted by AFBLUE

No its cool dude, you jogged my memory and I remebered why I had the whole thing out was because I changed them both at the same time. Now I will argue to say that if you are changing the master cylinder, the only thing keeping that whole assembly from coming out is the 1/4 turn of the slave, and a plastic clip that keeps the line from rattling.

well we are both right... I just wish someone would have told me how to bleed the darn thing instead of pushing in the clutch (which I did for around two hours) or let it sit all night with the cap off (which I did the same night and got no result out of it) yeah changed my master and it sucks... LOL

[Captain Starbucks]

Well thanks for all the info guys. Hopefully I'll have my new southbend installed this time tomorrow.

over and out!

[Captain Starbucks]

I got the clutch installed this morning. I just thought I'd post and add a little info for the next guy who has any questions.

I was lucky enough to use my buddies shop with a hydraulic lift. The job was pretty straight forward, but there are a few things worthy of mention.

Disconnect your batteries. You'll have to do this in order to take the starter off without burning your self up.

When you take off the gear shift knob, first pull down the rubber boot, remove the two torx head bolts, remove the shifter knob, then take a stubby phillips and remove the screws in the corners of the boot. Then take 6mm hex wrench and remove the shifter yoke out of the top of the trans. i found out the hard way you must remove this to get the trans out. It's super easy to do. Not only do you have to do it, but there's no way to screw it up. The yoke just plugs into a socket. No biggie.

If you decide to change your oil in the trans and xfer case, it takes about 2.5 gallons to do both (ATF, I got a deal on Amsoil). Make sure you have an oil pump or some means to put the fluid back in. Minor detail but aggravating if you don't have a pump or whatever.

I chose to remove the trans with the transfer case on the trans. It works fine. We happen to have an extra trans support rod that turned out to be a huge help. Saves a lot of extra wrenching and the cost/trip to buy a new seal.

The pedal is a lot softer on my new Southbend con o but it works great. I think there is a helper spring on the clutch pedal you can remove if you want to stiffen it back up but I'm gonna run it like that for a while.

If you think you may have a leaky pan or rear main seal, now is the time to fix.

If you've been contemplating bellowed up pipes, now is the time to get them on! Easy access.

Hope this helps someone in the future.

Rob

[AFBLUE]

A Southbend clutch is going to be on my wish list here in the next 3-6 months. Were all the bolts on the top of the trans easy enough to get to without 10 extensions? Did you pull the exhaust?

[Captain Starbucks]

The two bolts on top of the trans were easy, but yes, i had a good 3-4 feet worth of extensions on there.

No, I did not pull the exhaust. It wasn't even close to needing to be pulled.

How long have you had a stock clutch with your dp tuner? My stock clutch had 30k on it when I got my tuner and it started slipping immediately after I installed the chip. I just didn't know it until it finally totally let go at under 1000 miles with chip. You're going to be surprised at how much faster your truck is with a good clutch.