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post #1 of 10 Old 02-01-2014, 04:59 AM Thread Starter
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high output alternator

i am replacing my alt. should i go with h/o. bought a 110 amp already but have not installed. should i get h/o instead. truck doesnt have anything fancy. eaxtra light, stereo anything like that. but i want it to charge good. any thoughts? thanks.
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post #2 of 10 Old 02-01-2014, 05:08 AM
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you don't need a H/O but they can be nice if they are a quality unit that puts out more than a stock would at Idle

also brand is key some of the parts house reman units are sub par

i actually had to take an newly purchased Autozone (duralast) one apart so I could put a marine spark guard on one and I was shocked at the used crap still inside
it was like they just replaced the rectifier and put a clean case on it

the good thing about your year is you have a large case my truck had a small case so upgrading to a H/O unit with a big case had heat dissipation advantages
that you already have

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Last edited by ZMANN; 02-01-2014 at 05:12 AM.
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post #3 of 10 Old 02-01-2014, 05:56 AM Thread Starter
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I'm not sure the brand. It is from O'Reilly's. But I bought new one. It was only $20 more than the reman. I'm just torn on h/o one. If I did go h/o. How big can I go on original wiring?
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post #4 of 10 Old 02-01-2014, 05:58 AM
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mean green alternator from xtreme diesel.
pretty pricey though

99.5 f250 7.3 4x4 255k
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post #5 of 10 Old 02-01-2014, 08:10 AM
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If you can afford it, DC Power. Hands down. I actually noticed a difference in injector operation. Quite surprised really.

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post #6 of 10 Old 02-01-2014, 06:41 PM
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I opted for the DC Power 185 amp alternator, and it has been treating me well for 15K miles now.

2000 F350 4X4 CCSB w/ 7.3 and 4R100
PIS 175/80, Adrenaline HPOP, 4" Exhaust, 6637 Filter, CCV Mod, Leveled Front, 315/75/16 Goodyear Duratracs
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post #7 of 10 Old 02-01-2014, 07:41 PM
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I don't mean to hi-jack but can you have too much alternator for an application?

I mean the Napa Premium I just bought is rated for "100 amps" but only puts out 75@ 2500 RPMs ...and I'm pretty sure it's taken a crap on me in less than 2 weeks (less than 500 miles).

DC Power rates their 185Amp model for 100amps @ idle.. This is my next option..


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post #8 of 10 Old 02-01-2014, 08:09 PM
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Kind of. I mean its pointless to buy a 370 amp alt if you dont have a big stereo or bunch of lights, accessories, or a plow, or haul a dump trailer a lot.

Have you ever had feelings for a nun??? "Nacho Libre"

E99CCLB 250/200s,STG1cam, KC38R, 4" exh,CNC FAB fuel&oil lines,140vIDM,BTS,S&B

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96 CCLB F350 4x4 D60 swap stock



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post #9 of 10 Old 02-01-2014, 08:28 PM
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It's not going to hurt anything...well, other than your wallet at the parts counter. Just overkill.

I'd like a higher amperage alt, just to charge the batteries a bit faster, but, I'm not going to drop coin on one for just that...

2001 F250, 7.3, Automatic, 4x4, 33's, Leveled, Cobra 29 CB Radio, Dual Firestick Whips, Pioneer Head Unit, Riffraff 6637 Intake Kit, 4" turbo-back straight pipe, Dual Alternator Upper Radiator Hose, AutoMeter Boost, Pyro, Trans Temp, Delta Toolbox, Gooseneck Hitch and a heavy right footed driver...

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post #10 of 10 Old 02-01-2014, 08:56 PM
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At this point I'm hoping to get the 200 back I paid for it and maybe 80 for the core.. It makes 300 for a quality h/o alternator look pretty good.. Lol


2000 F-350 Lariat CCLB w. 335,000+ Mi
Tymar intake, Straight 4", 6.0 Intercooler, IDP Competition Fuel System, AC's, SB SD Clutch, ZF6 Short Shift Kit
Gearhead Tunes, Swamps IDM, Snow Performance Water/Meth, Isspro Performax Gauges & 08 Black Leather Seats
05 Harley's, Smoked tails, Weld Racing Sidewinder Wheels

Fried Piston, Re-building engine
330 RWHP Fuel Only - 363 RWHP w. Meth
Broke College kid... Eating Ramon to save for truck parts..

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