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Old 01-13-2014, 05:37 AM
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Problems starting in the morning

I tried starting my truck this morning and two times it just keeps turning over. Its 50 degrees out here in FL right now but I don't think that has anything to do with it? It did sit over night.

After I tried cranking it up after the second time I noticed small amounts of white smoke running out of the exhaust real slow when the truck wasn't on.

Is that normal? I just changed the oil last night and checked levels this morning and its fine.

What should I be doing in order to get the truck cranked up? I don't want to try turning the key too many times waiting for it to crank.

Does the block heater need plugged in??

Last edited by FlaDiesel; 01-13-2014 at 05:40 AM.
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Old 01-13-2014, 05:47 AM
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You Just Bought a 7.3 Now What.......?
ohm out the GP system to check for issueshttp://www.powerstroke.org/forum/7-3...locations.html

and yes white and white/blueish smoke durring warm up is normal
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Old 01-13-2014, 06:13 AM
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I have the same thing with my truck only its alot colder here. First like stated above check your GP if they test good try this. I find if i cycle the GP 5 to 6 times so the length of time the WTS light is on then reset the key to turn the WTS back on. (GPs do stay on longer then the light does up to 2min) Then once light goes out the 5th or 6th time I hold the skinny petal to the floor and crank for 5 to 10 seconds. Usally it coughs and trys to start but get nothing. So then turn the key off wait about 3 seconds (the time it takes my egt and trans temp to do the needle move thing) then i turn the key for the WTS light to come back on while pressing the skinny pedal an inch or two down, wait for the gauges to cycle and go back to zero and crank it again usally it pops right off. If it doesnt repeat process again. If my trucks plugged in however i dont have to worry about doing all that. Good luck
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Old 01-13-2014, 08:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Im_Strokin_ur_Cummins View Post
I have the same thing with my truck only its alot colder here. First like stated above check your GP if they test good try this. I find if i cycle the GP 5 to 6 times so the length of time the WTS light is on then reset the key to turn the WTS back on. (GPs do stay on longer then the light does up to 2min) Then once light goes out the 5th or 6th time I hold the skinny petal to the floor and crank for 5 to 10 seconds. Usally it coughs and trys to start but get nothing. So then turn the key off wait about 3 seconds (the time it takes my egt and trans temp to do the needle move thing) then i turn the key for the WTS light to come back on while pressing the skinny pedal an inch or two down, wait for the gauges to cycle and go back to zero and crank it again usally it pops right off. If it doesnt repeat process again. If my trucks plugged in however i dont have to worry about doing all that. Good luck
pedal has nothing to do with starting as ours is "drive by wire" so to speak and the pcm ignores the tps untill it starts...but if I was you I'd double check the fuel pressure and fix the gp system because its not good (and actually usless) to cycle it like that. just my
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Old 01-26-2014, 10:17 PM
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Hey guys i was hoping you could help me out?
So i went out to start my truck the other morning it was 6 degrees Celsius so in comparison to a regular alberta winter morning it was hot out!! I jumped in waited for glowplugs and turned the key and it cranked super slow and eventually started. I went for a short drive just thought batteries got run down didnt worry about it. I got home and i tried it agian and cranked slow again. So i let it run so more in the mean time i tested the alternator, out-put of about 14 volts so its good. I shut it off started it a couple more times now it cranks fine. I use it a couple hours later cranks fine and i shut it off at the store get back in and cranks slow again. I get home load test batteries with leads unhooked and made sure they were fully charged, they test good. I try starting it again now it cranked slow twice then clicks. Batteries read 12volts sitting when it turns over drops down to 7 so no wonder it doesnt start. I try boosting it and it doesnt change a dam thing it still has the same exact sypmtoms.

All leads are clean just cleaned them didnt help, alternator and batteries are good.
What would explain this intermittent slow cranking and now no start????

Short? starter? Pls help???
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Old 01-27-2014, 02:27 PM
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I had same problem and turned out to be starter.you should check amp output at alternator.not just voltage.before starter went my alternator showed good voltage but only 50 amps.need 110.
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Old 01-27-2014, 09:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dannanw View Post
pedal has nothing to do with starting as ours is "drive by wire" so to speak and the pcm ignores the tps untill it starts...but if I was you I'd double check the fuel pressure and fix the gp system because its not good (and actually usless) to cycle it like that. just my
Already replaced all GP and GP relay, and not saying your wrong about the DBW for TPS but if i dont touch the pedal at all and try starting i might as well get the battery charger out. As where if I crank with it to the floor and it coughs and sputters then try again slightly depressing the pedal it actually pops off and starts or just enough to tease me then dies.
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Old 03-27-2014, 09:10 PM
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Hey guys, so im having slow crank and no start issues again. I replaced my gpr last time cause the old one was fried that seemed to fix the problem for a month anyway. Then the truck sat for a few weeks in about -40 and the batteries froze so I got new ones, installed them and its been good for a few weeks until today.Batteries read 12v then turn the key glow plugs cycle voltage goes to about 11.4 which is normal. When I try to crank the engine it turns over really slow about twice and the voltage goes to like 5v and dash lights and relays under the dash start going on and off like crazy. When I stop trying to crank and just have the key on everything goes to normal except that the dome light stays on for an extended period of time now.

I put in new Gpr, batteries, cleaned all grounds, cleaned battery posts, and cleaned leads at starter. I don't really no what else to do replace starter I guess, could it be drawing to much power? How can I test that?

Please help thanks!!
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Old 03-27-2014, 09:32 PM
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The bolts holding the starter to the block have the tendency to rattle loose, which causes the starter to make a bad ground connection.
Crawl under there and check those bolts.

For future reference, you'll have better luck starting a new the thread, rather than hijacking an existing one
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Old 03-27-2014, 09:35 PM
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I checked the bolts the starter is tight to the block. Ill start a knew thread thanks for the advice
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