My POR oilpan - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 4 Old 10-24-2013, 04:06 AM Thread Starter
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My POR oilpan

I've been keeping a close eye on my oil pan since it was becoming increasingly rusty. I have not developed a leak however by the looks of it, it wouldn't be long and I would have a problem on my hands. As many know, what I would consider to be a serviceability flaw.... the engine has to be removed to replace the pan. And to do it right, the engine is supposed to be tipped upside down to allow the sealant to cure without being contaminated by oil running down the inside of the block. Now, I did not want to do that so I did some research. I emailed the folks at POR-15 and said they have a solution for rusty Ford oil pans since this isn't an issue with just the 7.3, basically all Ford oil pans rust. So I ordered a kit and here are some pictures.

I drained the oil because if by some chance I poked a hole while removing the scale I didn't want a mess on my hands. Also by removing the oil filter you have a much easier time of getting to the pan.

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This is the front by the pulley

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The folks at POR said it's best to get the pan down to bare metal. This proves to be almost impossible. So I concentrated on the rusty areas and removed the paint back far enough from the rust that the POR would have a chance to grab onto something clean.

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It is a multi step process. clean and remove paint and scale rust. Spray on marine clean and scrub to remove oil for 20 minutes. Rinse and allow to dry. Then spray on the Prep and Ready and keep it wet for 20 minutes. The chemical reaction on the rust is pretty amazing actually. You can see it eating away. Then rinse and allow to air dry.

Now apply the paint. One step I didn't do is cover up items under the pan. Painting upside down invites the paint to run right down the brush, your forearm and drip on all kinds of things.

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If you attempt to do this I would caution you on time. It takes a long time to go through all the steps. In fact the pan was not yet totally dry and I had no option but to run the truck because I had to get my kids from day care.

So we'll wait and see how it does. A day spent at a cost of around $25 to keep the rust from having damaging affects is worth it in my book. If it doesn't work, then I'll try the other options.......

Jason

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post #2 of 4 Old 10-24-2013, 07:42 AM
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I just did that recently too, makes me feel better knowing I don't have to worry about it

Kyle

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post #3 of 4 Old 10-24-2013, 10:41 AM
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Im going to bed line my next pan... not that I have a rust issue here but just to keep it prettied up.

01 F-250 SC PSD,320k,16 Isspro Gauges, AFE-2,CCV Mod,IAH delete,map reg,Modded H2e, 6.0 IC, 230/100 from P.I.S, Studs, 910 springs, Forged rods, Water injection,Hydra chip-No Limit/Gearhead tuning, Swamps HVHF IDM, MBRP 4" dual's, Aero, 6" tip's, 4" Revtek lift, 37/12.5/16.5 MT's
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post #4 of 4 Old 10-24-2013, 11:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CSIPSD View Post
Im going to bed line my next pan... not that I have a rust issue here but just to keep it prettied up.
Me too, I just dropped my fuel tank not too long ago to fix a few rust holes that were starting where it rubbed the straps and then i POR and tossed some bed liner on it too. I hit the tank and the big shield ( since I have a Chassis Cab Flatbed)

Kyle

2001 F350 Chassis Cab 4x4 DRW Flatbed 130k miles+

Quad Gauge Pillar - Aeroforce Interceptor & Glowshift Series 7 EGT, Boost, Trans Temp
Foil Delete | Marinco Mod | High Torque 4kw Starter | Door Seal Mod | AIH Delete | Coolant Filter & 203* Thermostat w/ Billet Aluminum Housing | Hutch Mod | RiffRaff Fpx, Hpx, boots | WW2 | Deleted ebpv



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