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post #1 of 8 Old 08-13-2013, 11:36 AM Thread Starter
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Calling all painter's!

Okay I'm getting ready to educate myself to paint my truck. I have a local supplier of PPG so thats what I'll be going with, in canada the options for online purchase is pretty much nil.

Anyway, I have selected the base and clear no problem, but the primer is confusing me. 1k,2k, epox etc....

Some spots of the truck will be sandblasted, others will be just scuffed up factory paint. Certain areas I want to blast have minimal surface rust starting, or like my doors have been horribly repainted in the past and I want to get all of that off in a hurry.

So as I think I understand it, my steps would be....

Scuff paint/ sandblast the area's needed
Epoxy primer the area's that were blasted
2k filler primer over the whole truck
Sand


Then the topcoat can be applied?

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post #2 of 8 Old 08-13-2013, 11:49 AM
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i would use only urethane primers for urethane paints. we use KEYSTONE 3-n-1 primer at our body shop, it is the best bang for youre buck for primers as it can be used for 3 different uses (hence the name) depending on how much you reduce it and its very easy to sand. its a bare metal primer, filler primer, and a sealer for when you start painting. its also tintable so you can shade it to whatever youre truck color is to help bring youre color up while painting.

get all youre damaged areas fixed and primed first then youll want to get it all sanded with 320-400g paper and washed REALLY well, be sure to get underneith where all the dirt hangs so it doesnt blow out when you hit it with the paint gun. we use regular old DAWN dishwashing soap as it has excellent degreasing characteristics. let the truck dry and get it all taped and masked up. youll want to go over it again wiht a good degreaser to get any leftover or residual oils off. now youll want to seal the truck wiht a sealer so you dont have any bullseyes or any bleeding thru where you fixed anything. after letting the sealer flash off then you can hit it wiht the top coat and then fially clear it. to really makeit nice youll need to cut/buff it to get any trash and orange peel out of the clear.

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post #3 of 8 Old 08-13-2013, 12:32 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the reply!

After posting that I ran out and hit up one of the local body shops. They told me something similar. PPG is the brand I'm pretty much limited too. Canada has really difficult rules and most other brands are expensive as hell. They recommended a primer that sounds essentially the same as what you mentioned can be used for anything.

So as of now start to finish my steps are:
Clean the truck
Remove everything to be removed
Sand
Blast the rough spots and previous poor paint repair
Clean/Degrease
Prime with the primer thinned appropriately
Sand
Clean/degrease
Prime the whole truck
Lightly sand with 400
Primer thinned to be a sealer
Flash time
Base coat (manufacturer recommends 3 coats)
Check for/fix runs
Clear (again 3 recommended coats)
Wetsand
Let it sit a couple days then cut and buff.

Sound good?

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post #4 of 8 Old 08-13-2013, 01:02 PM
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Need to look at whatever clear you're using, they almost all have a dry time or buff time, you'll want one with a long drying time for the size you're painting. Don't wetsand until is dried the appropriate time to where you can buff it. We wetsand with 1000g paper then go over it with a 1k grit, 2k grit, then a 4k grit to get rid of the sanding marks, this makes the final job much nicer/easier to get when you go over it with the buffer.

Brett
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post #5 of 8 Old 08-13-2013, 01:37 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah this clear says 1 full day at least sitting, but itll probably get 2.

But out of the steps I listed does that sound good?

Most of the sanding ill be using a DA polishing sander. one of the low powered palm ones, not a big one for heavy sanding. First couple stages of wet sanding will be done by hand .

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post #6 of 8 Old 08-13-2013, 01:59 PM
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Sounds pretty good. I would use a block over a DA sander, using a DA will make for a wobbley finished product.

Also, when washing i use a red scotchbrite pad with soap and water. This helps get the dust out of the sanding scratches and further helps adhesion

Brett
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post #7 of 8 Old 08-13-2013, 03:04 PM
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Be careful sandblasting body panels. I had a buddy ruin a factory 69 z-28 cowl hood sandblasting it. He warped it all over.

2001 f250 4x4
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post #8 of 8 Old 08-13-2013, 06:02 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah there won't be any warping issues here. Just the fender wells and sides of the cab, and bottoms of the doors.

Appreciate it guys!

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