A/c condenser fan? - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum

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post #1 of 11 Old 06-25-2013, 08:48 PM Thread Starter
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A/c condenser fan?

I'm sure this has been discussed but I'm having no luck with the search function. I want to instal a small fan to help my ac out when I'm in traffic. As we approach 100 degree high humidity days here I've noticed that my ac isn't as efficient at near idle speeds as it is on the highway. I found a spal 16 inch pusher fan on eBay for a decent price but am curious what others have done and results they have gotten. Pros cons minus the bs?


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post #2 of 11 Old 06-26-2013, 11:17 AM
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This is one of the first mods I did to my own truck and love it!!! I used a pusher/puller universal 12" fan and wired it to pull air from the back side of the condenser, mounted a relay that draws power from the a/c low side switch and it has been working for 6 yrs with no problems. I do know that poor a/c cooling at idle is an indication that a clutch fan is becomin weak so I would check that just to make sure you don't overheat the engine if it is failing but I will never remove my condenser fan!

-Brad

00' F350 CC DRW still pushing well past 300K: 6637, GTP38R, 5.6k mod on turn dial, superchips, trans command, Torque pro on Galxy S2 for PID monitor, OD lock, 4" straight pipe, condensor cooler w/electric fan, watersprayed intercooler, 08' taillights, 05' headlights, BD valve body kit, all door locks foiled, full LED exterior light kit, and the list is still growing.
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post #3 of 11 Old 06-26-2013, 05:19 PM Thread Starter
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Is there a way to check the main fan? I know that it has been coming on when I pull away from a stop but is never on long and from what I can tell the temp gage never moves just stays on the lower side of normal. It has been 95 plus and high humidity here lately also.


E99 F350 Ext. cab Long bed, single wheel 2x4
Riff Raff 6637 intake, FRX and HPX,
Dieselsite boostfooler, factory tech valvebody, filter system,
Local custom trans build - BTS in near future,
Derale cooling pan and trans cooler,
Mbrp 4" turbo back
Ts 6 pos chip - TW tunes coming soon,
Guzzles hutch and harpoon mod with lift pump and racor filters
Ww2
Blank pedestal with moded exhaust port
Afe rear end cover
Callahan drilled and slotted rotors front and rear
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post #4 of 11 Old 06-26-2013, 06:21 PM
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There is actually a thread floating around here called the "broom test" where at idle you push the bristles of a broom into the fan and if you stop it then its gone bad... I don't know how much force or resistance they are supposed to take so I don't know how accurate that is to test though! I do know that if you have access to a/c gauges and a large commercial type fan that reading the high side pressure at idle and then placing the fan in front of the truck on high and if the highside pressure drops there is a flow issue can help you identify a weak clutch. I'm sure there is a thread somewhere here on clutch fan diag.

-Brad

00' F350 CC DRW still pushing well past 300K: 6637, GTP38R, 5.6k mod on turn dial, superchips, trans command, Torque pro on Galxy S2 for PID monitor, OD lock, 4" straight pipe, condensor cooler w/electric fan, watersprayed intercooler, 08' taillights, 05' headlights, BD valve body kit, all door locks foiled, full LED exterior light kit, and the list is still growing.
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post #5 of 11 Old 06-27-2013, 06:11 AM
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There's mod you can do that helps the AC work much better by not having to "fight" the Hot Heater Core (Ford does a poor job of stopping the flow of hot coolant into the airbox). You simply put a shut-off valve in either heater hose and open/close it when the weather changes...
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post #6 of 11 Old 06-27-2013, 06:26 AM
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True, I know that can drastically help as well, it came equipped on some of our models from what I understand and uses vacuum to open and close, or you can just place a standard metal ball valve cut off inline and do the same thing you just have to manually change it.

-Brad

00' F350 CC DRW still pushing well past 300K: 6637, GTP38R, 5.6k mod on turn dial, superchips, trans command, Torque pro on Galxy S2 for PID monitor, OD lock, 4" straight pipe, condensor cooler w/electric fan, watersprayed intercooler, 08' taillights, 05' headlights, BD valve body kit, all door locks foiled, full LED exterior light kit, and the list is still growing.
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post #7 of 11 Old 06-27-2013, 06:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ThomasvillePavers View Post
True, I know that can drastically help as well, it came equipped on some of our models from what I understand and uses vacuum to open and close, or you can just place a standard metal ball valve cut off inline and do the same thing you just have to manually change it.
This sounds interesting. However, my coolant filter is plumbed into the heater core hose. How would that be affected by this?

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post #8 of 11 Old 06-27-2013, 08:56 AM
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If you did this mod then it wouldn't flow through the filter, you would need a bypass like a "T" fitting to run from the water inlet side or "flow" side going into the heater core and the filter setup then place the cut-off valve after the "T" before the heater core.

-Brad

00' F350 CC DRW still pushing well past 300K: 6637, GTP38R, 5.6k mod on turn dial, superchips, trans command, Torque pro on Galxy S2 for PID monitor, OD lock, 4" straight pipe, condensor cooler w/electric fan, watersprayed intercooler, 08' taillights, 05' headlights, BD valve body kit, all door locks foiled, full LED exterior light kit, and the list is still growing.
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post #9 of 11 Old 06-27-2013, 09:15 AM
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http://www.dieselsite.com/maxacassis...4-200373l.aspx
This helped mine alot. Just put it in on firewall side of your filter and everything will work right

2000 F250 XcabSB, 4x4, 4" strait pipe, DIY intake, FRx, BDP tunes, WW2, 6.0 cooler, BTS VB, gauges, 55w digital projector HIDs
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post #10 of 11 Old 06-27-2013, 12:56 PM
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I think these kits are all using Fords vacuum controlled valve (YG-136) you can just buy it and splice it in.

New Pinto Mustang Heater Valve 1965 78 D4AZ18495A YG136 | eBay
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