I decided to add/improve filtration on the truck. I'm going to add a coolant bypass filter, a hydraulic filter, a transmission filter, an engine oil bypass filter, and a fuel filter to replace the in-tank screen.
I have most of the parts ordered. I believe that it will all come out to less than $600, including new fluids.
So far, I've installed the coolant bypass filter. That came under $70, complete. I used a Baldwin B5000 filter base with a B5134 filter. I mounted it up next to the radiator, ala Guzzle (Welcome to guzzle's Coolant Bypass Filter Mod Web Page
). FYI, for anyone doing it, the existing bolts are 6mm with a 1.00 pitch. I bought new stainless bolts that were 30mm long. The two bolt holes are exactly 1" apart, and the hole closer to center is 3/4" closer to the front of the truck. Not sure who spaced things perfectly in inches, then used a metric bolt...
I put a washer on the bolt, then through the bracket, then an oversized nut to act as a spacer, then it goes through the existing radiator bracket. I used the spacer to make sure that the clamping force gets transferred to the radiator bracket, as well. A piece of aluminum 3-1/4" wide by 9" long was sufficient to make the bracket.
In addition to the mount and filter, and the hardware I just described, I needed three 3/8" barb x male adapters and a 3/8" barbed tee. I bought stainless since I prefer it over brass for glycol-containing applications. The auto parts store was out of 3/8" heater hose, so I ended up with four feet of RLA hydraulic hose. Six hose clamps and some thread sealant, and we were in business. Obviously, if I'd used brass and heater hose, and regular steel bolts, things would have been slightly cheaper.
I was a bit worried about removing the plug for the pressure tap, given that I have 200k on the engine, but it came out with no trouble at all. I pre-attached the hose to one of the fittings, applied thread sealant, and had it ready to go. As soon as I got the plug out, I stuck the fitting in and that stopped the coolant from leaking more than an ounce or two. Then just tighten it in and proceed with the connections.
I strongly recommend Leak Lock
thread sealant. It's a pain to remove (you almost always need heat, like a thread locker), but it seals against almost all substances. Notably not
isopropyl alcohol, so Purell or other hand sanitizers will clean it off, easily. I usually use Gasoila for most things, but if I have something likely to leak (eg, old/damaged threads), something critical, or something using a known solvent (eg, biodiesel), I grab the Leak Lock. (I just keep a couple of the small tubes, as opposed to the giant can of Gasoila that I have in the truck)
Had to add about 1/4 gallon of coolant to make up for the small amount lost, and the increased capacity of the system (ie, the filter and lines). I'll keep an eye on it for the next couple days, just in case I need to add some more.
Only minor annoyance is that the bolt heads rub against the gasket/liner of the hood. Enough that I have to give the hood a firm shove to close it fully, but I expect that they will dent just enough to clear, so I'm not worried.