The filter project - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 14 Old 06-23-2013, 05:29 PM Thread Starter
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The filter project

I decided to add/improve filtration on the truck. I'm going to add a coolant bypass filter, a hydraulic filter, a transmission filter, an engine oil bypass filter, and a fuel filter to replace the in-tank screen.

I have most of the parts ordered. I believe that it will all come out to less than $600, including new fluids.

So far, I've installed the coolant bypass filter. That came under $70, complete. I used a Baldwin B5000 filter base with a B5134 filter. I mounted it up next to the radiator, ala Guzzle (Welcome to guzzle's Coolant Bypass Filter Mod Web Page). FYI, for anyone doing it, the existing bolts are 6mm with a 1.00 pitch. I bought new stainless bolts that were 30mm long. The two bolt holes are exactly 1" apart, and the hole closer to center is 3/4" closer to the front of the truck. Not sure who spaced things perfectly in inches, then used a metric bolt...

I put a washer on the bolt, then through the bracket, then an oversized nut to act as a spacer, then it goes through the existing radiator bracket. I used the spacer to make sure that the clamping force gets transferred to the radiator bracket, as well. A piece of aluminum 3-1/4" wide by 9" long was sufficient to make the bracket.

In addition to the mount and filter, and the hardware I just described, I needed three 3/8" barb x male adapters and a 3/8" barbed tee. I bought stainless since I prefer it over brass for glycol-containing applications. The auto parts store was out of 3/8" heater hose, so I ended up with four feet of RLA hydraulic hose. Six hose clamps and some thread sealant, and we were in business. Obviously, if I'd used brass and heater hose, and regular steel bolts, things would have been slightly cheaper.

I was a bit worried about removing the plug for the pressure tap, given that I have 200k on the engine, but it came out with no trouble at all. I pre-attached the hose to one of the fittings, applied thread sealant, and had it ready to go. As soon as I got the plug out, I stuck the fitting in and that stopped the coolant from leaking more than an ounce or two. Then just tighten it in and proceed with the connections.

I strongly recommend Leak Lock thread sealant. It's a pain to remove (you almost always need heat, like a thread locker), but it seals against almost all substances. Notably not isopropyl alcohol, so Purell or other hand sanitizers will clean it off, easily. I usually use Gasoila for most things, but if I have something likely to leak (eg, old/damaged threads), something critical, or something using a known solvent (eg, biodiesel), I grab the Leak Lock. (I just keep a couple of the small tubes, as opposed to the giant can of Gasoila that I have in the truck)

Had to add about 1/4 gallon of coolant to make up for the small amount lost, and the increased capacity of the system (ie, the filter and lines). I'll keep an eye on it for the next couple days, just in case I need to add some more.

Only minor annoyance is that the bolt heads rub against the gasket/liner of the hood. Enough that I have to give the hood a firm shove to close it fully, but I expect that they will dent just enough to clear, so I'm not worried.
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post #2 of 14 Old 06-23-2013, 05:36 PM Thread Starter
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I'm thinking of relocating the driver's side battery to the passenger's side framerail using a van battery box. I may do both batteries, but I'm strongly inclined to at least do that one. If so, I'm going to use the additional space for a better intake system, and to mount the hydraulic filter. That will put it above the other components, so it will be easy to change the filter without losing lots of fluid.
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post #3 of 14 Old 06-23-2013, 08:49 PM
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for your transmission filter, are you tapping into the test port?

Kyle

2001 F350 Chassis Cab 4x4 DRW Flatbed 130k miles+

Quad Gauge Pillar - Aeroforce Interceptor & Glowshift Series 7 EGT, Boost, Trans Temp
Foil Delete | Marinco Mod | High Torque 4kw Starter | Door Seal Mod | AIH Delete | Coolant Filter & 203* Thermostat w/ Billet Aluminum Housing | Hutch Mod | RiffRaff Fpx, Hpx, boots | WW2 | Deleted ebpv


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post #4 of 14 Old 06-24-2013, 05:25 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eco Taxi View Post
for your transmission filter, are you tapping into the test port?
Nope, planning on that being full-flow, inserted in the cooler loop. The filter has a built-in bypass valve, so it will open if the filter ever plugs, preventing a loss of flow.
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post #5 of 14 Old 06-24-2013, 06:28 PM
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Got any pics of your set up so far? Sounds interesting.
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post #6 of 14 Old 06-24-2013, 06:41 PM
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Where'd you send your filtered coolant?
Cause I wouldn't send it back to the degass bottle.

Also, what "hydraulic" fluid are you filtering?


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post #7 of 14 Old 06-24-2013, 07:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jesilvas View Post
Where'd you send your filtered coolant?
Cause I wouldn't send it back to the degass bottle.
I thought most coolant filters tap into the test port into the side of the water pump then goes into the overflow (degass bottle?) - this is how my dieselsite coolant filter kit works

Correct me if I'm off here

Also where would you send your filtered coolant?

Kyle

2001 F350 Chassis Cab 4x4 DRW Flatbed 130k miles+

Quad Gauge Pillar - Aeroforce Interceptor & Glowshift Series 7 EGT, Boost, Trans Temp
Foil Delete | Marinco Mod | High Torque 4kw Starter | Door Seal Mod | AIH Delete | Coolant Filter & 203* Thermostat w/ Billet Aluminum Housing | Hutch Mod | RiffRaff Fpx, Hpx, boots | WW2 | Deleted ebpv


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post #8 of 14 Old 06-24-2013, 07:53 PM
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I send mine back into the return heater hose from the heater core, into the pump.
Into the degass bottle makes the thermostat open prematurely and bypasses it basically.
I had warm up issues and low ECTs in winter.


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post #9 of 14 Old 06-24-2013, 07:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jesilvas View Post
I send mine back into the return heater hose from the heater core, into the pump.
Into the degass bottle makes the thermostat open prematurely and bypasses it basically.
I had warm up issues and low ECTs in winter.
Huh...mines' been doing that, since iinstalled the filter system and new pump/thermostat. Thought its the t-stat, os was gonna change it out for an oem one..

99.5 x-cab 7.3l, 6spd, 161k miles.....
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post #10 of 14 Old 06-24-2013, 08:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jesilvas View Post
I send mine back into the return heater hose from the heater core, into the pump.
Into the degass bottle makes the thermostat open prematurely and bypasses it basically.
I had warm up issues and low ECTs in winter.
Makes sense. When you route it from the coolant filter to your return heater hose... Do you use a t fitting to accomplish this or what?

Can you post a picture

Thanks for the info jesilvas

Kyle

2001 F350 Chassis Cab 4x4 DRW Flatbed 130k miles+

Quad Gauge Pillar - Aeroforce Interceptor & Glowshift Series 7 EGT, Boost, Trans Temp
Foil Delete | Marinco Mod | High Torque 4kw Starter | Door Seal Mod | AIH Delete | Coolant Filter & 203* Thermostat w/ Billet Aluminum Housing | Hutch Mod | RiffRaff Fpx, Hpx, boots | WW2 | Deleted ebpv


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