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Old 06-23-2013, 06:10 AM
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bone stock 2001 7.3L, upgrade questions

I just bought a 2001 Ford Excursion with a 7.3L that is bone stock. It has around 200k miles on it, and I'm looking to do some upgrades. I will use the truck for daily driving, vacation trips (6-8 hour highway), and very limited towing (towing a car on a trailer 2-3x a year). The main goals are more seat of the pants power, better gas mileage (20-25mpg range on highway), and reliability. I won't use it for racing, hauling big loads, showing off, etc. I also want to be as frugal as possible with $$, so only changing or upgrading what NEEDS to be done. Also, I don't want to change to a heavily built transmission at this point.

I am planning on a 6 position chip, turbo upgrade and 4" or 5" exhaust system. Injectors: only if necessary.

With all that said, I've seen a lot of posts on the GDS turbo and the Garrett GTP38R. Both seem to be the same price range, so is the GTP38R a better choice (and if so, why)?

What injectors? Stock? Or do I have to upgrade to Stage 1 or Stage 2? I've seen some stage 1's on BDP, but not sure if I need them or not to get where I want to be.

Exhaust: I've seen a lot of people running the MBRP 4" system. For what I'm looking to achieve, I assume that a 4" would be best. Pro's / Con's?


I'm looking for people that have similar goals as mine with similar combinations as the above, so I can get real feedback from people that have tried those combos. Guys that build their trucks for racing or pulling have a different set of requirements, and probably deeper wallets than I do

Last edited by billyrb; 06-23-2013 at 06:23 AM.
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Old 06-23-2013, 10:47 AM
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Any 4" exhaust, 6637 intake, gauges, bts valve body, 6pos chip with custom tunes, ww2 in stock turbo in that order. I would leave injectors alone unless there is something wrong with them. I don't see you ever getting that mileage
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Old 06-23-2013, 10:49 AM
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I forgot a 6.0 tranny cooler also
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Old 06-23-2013, 11:05 AM
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Your emphasis on doing only what "NEEDS" to be done leads me suggest you to do nothing.
Others will disagree with me, but my personal experience is that I got my best fuel economy on stock tunes.
If you really want to do a few mods, but don't want to spend much money just do a 6637 to start. Just delete the muffler on the stock exhaust.

Spending money on custom tunes in the name of fuel economy truly is stepping over dollars to pick up dimes.
Now if fuel economy isn't the reason, and you just want to have fun then for sure get a chip.
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Old 06-23-2013, 01:22 PM
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A good friend of mine has the GDS turbo, 4" exhaust and a 6-position chip and verified that he got 22mpg (i've ridden with him and saw it on the display and also calculated fuel versus miles driven just to be sure). He's out of town for a few weeks, so I haven't had a chance to ask if he's using stock injectors or not, but thought I'd ask here.

For leaving it all stock, the stock turbo seems to fall flat in a few spots between 1,500 and 2,200 from what I've found, unless I have my foot to the floor. Even then, sometimes I notice it. Almost like there is a restriction either in the intake side, or exhaust side. I'm new to turbo vehicles, and new to diesels, so I'm not sure if this is normal or not. It's been a few years since I was in my buddy's excursion, but his was upgraded so again, not sure if this is normal or not for stock.

Thanks for the suggestions above, I'll do some research on them. The ww2 has a lot of followers, but I wasn't sure if it would fit my needs. Based on a few reviews I read from folks with my basic set of needs, it may fit the bill and save me $1,300
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Old 06-24-2013, 12:45 PM
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Start with the basics:
Intake, Tymar or a AIS with filter sleave
Guages
Exhaust

Then tunes and see how it runs from their.

Adding much more may tax a hi mile trans and usually won't get you 20+ mpg's.
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Old 06-25-2013, 07:49 AM
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those are good recommendations. I ordered parts for a tymar diy style today, and have narrowed exhaust down to the MBRP XP 4" system and the Banks 48654 system.

For gauges, those are going to be ordered this week.
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Old 06-28-2013, 08:21 PM
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went to put together my DIY Tymar kit today, realized the 6" section of 4" pipe was actually 8" length, and was flared to 4-3/16" on each end, so won't work. No one local has 4" pipe, so I ordered more from summit, this time making sure to order the correct pipe (I hate it when I don't read all the details before buying). That should be here monday. The good news is removing the old stuff was stupid simple, and I had it all apart and removed in about 2-3 minutes using a power drill with a 5/16" socket. I will also drill a hole in the end of the 46637 and insert the filter reminder in the end.

Also, ordered my gauges. I went with the Glowshift Maxtow quad gauge pod and gauges. I was going to order it on ebay, along with the 1/8-27 tap and R bit, and the 7.3L fuel line adapter, which all came to $395. Then I found a coupon online for $10 off, but it only worked on the glowshiftdirect.com website. I went there and added all items into my cart, and with the discount and free shipping, it was almost $50 cheaper! So I ordered direct and saved just about the amount i spend on the DIY Tymar kit

I also found a major restriction in my airbox. The filter was a K&N style, but was beyond filthy, it was darn near completely clogged with bugs, debris and chunks of what I assume are mud. I will be cleaning it and reoiling it, and putting it up for sale. I can't believe the truck could go down the road with the filter as clogged as it was. At least I will have a bit more airflow once the new filter is in!
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Old 06-29-2013, 08:09 AM
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Glad the project is coming together.
Looks like you've been bitten by"the bug" I hope you're prepared to spend some money over the next few years
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Old 07-13-2013, 11:40 AM
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Spent about 2 hours today changing out all of the door lock actuators. Every one of them was shot, so I ordered new ones from rockauto. I read all about wrapping the metal square with foil on the old ones, but found that a good portion of people had to go back in and replace them anyway within a few months. I hate doing work twice, and for the low cost, I bit the bullet and went new. All in all, it was a fast painless process including the tailgate. Most of the reports I read said 1 hour for the first door, then 30 minutes for each of the remaining doors. I'm guessing that also had to do with wrapping the metal. I'd say the first door took me 40 minutes, and a good bit of that was stopping to read the instructions, then go back, make sure I was looking at the right part and then moving to the next step. The rest were fast, but I took my time and showed my son what I was doing along the way. It is GREAT to have working door locks now!!

For upgrades, the Gauges came in and I will be installing those in the next week. Going to order a derale deep pan with a port in it, as the pan has a more accurate temp rating of the fluid (test port as I believe is before the converter, and the fluid after the converter is hotter). Also ordered a 6.0L trans cooler, and will be installing both during a fluid & filter change at my buddy's shop (going to have him look over the trans while he's in there anyway). That should take care of the trans cooling issues completely.

Ordered the non-EBV pedestal, free flow outlet and the Wicked Wheel 2. Those should all be here sometime next week.

Exhaust, my vendor is out of town for another few days, but when he gets back I'll hopefully be ordering the MBRP 4" exhaust.

Last big item on the list is the tuner. I'm going to go with a PHP 6-position tuner based on all the reviews I've read, as well as their customer service. I called and asked quite a few questions, and they politely answered each one and offered some good suggestions. Since they are only about an hour away, I'll be driving out there to buy the chip and have them install it.

The more I drive this truck, the more I love it.
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