Door lock actuator - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
 
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post #1 of 6 Old 04-28-2013, 11:20 AM Thread Starter
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Door lock actuator

First of all I'm pretty sure that my door lock actuator is bad. I bought universal door locks from someone on here and charge me $30 and found out that I could spent $15 for both locks. Well anyway. I started work on the locks and they don't seem working right. Checked the voltage and make sure the ground is good. Everything was good and the locks seem doing the same thing as factory one. Seem like not enough juice to unlock the door or even lock the door. Now my question is if I buy a door lock actuators and they are direct fit and OE. Will it solve the problem or will it still do the same thing as the factory actuator?

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post #2 of 6 Old 04-29-2013, 07:21 AM
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Eeek, I spent $30 on all 4 via Ebay for my '00. OE style replacements. They looked like the housing was built slightly different (one less gear inside them possibly?), but I've put two in the front doors (the rears were still good in my truck) and they've worked fine thus far, and being that I practically live out of my truck with my job I am probably using them 5-6x more than someone who would be running to their office for work for the day.

I figured for the money I spent, if they last me a year, I'll be happy. They really aren't that hard to replace once you've done one.

I can't say if they'd work for sure on yours, because I don't know if there are any other issues with your truck, but mine were pushing up the knobs, but not quite far enough to unlock them, and it solved that for me.

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post #3 of 6 Old 04-29-2013, 08:16 AM
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Theres a known problem with ford actuators that do what you are saying, what it is is theres a little metal plate maybe a 1/4"X1/4" that gets dirty over the years what who knows what but you wrap it in aluminum foil and put it all back together and it works like new. I did it for all 4 of my locks and now they work great.

It does require you taking apart your housing for the actuator that is riveted shut but i just drilled and pried it open and some people put some self tappers in it but i just super glued the edges back together.

Its really not hard at all and best of all its free. Just youtube something like super duty door lock fix and theres a few on there. Im not 100% its your problem but thats what mine was doing.

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post #4 of 6 Old 04-29-2013, 05:24 PM Thread Starter
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Ok Ramminstein are you saying that take the actuator out and open them up and clean them up and put aluminum foil on something? I will have to start looking on YouTube for sure!

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post #5 of 6 Old 04-29-2013, 06:07 PM
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I tried the aluminum foil mod and it didn't help on the first door I tried it on. After messing with getting out, for the $30/set off ebay its just easier and worth the money IMO to replace them. I couldn't even be bothered to tear into an actuator housing again for the price of new replacements.

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post #6 of 6 Old 04-29-2013, 06:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Silver200273L View Post
Ok Ramminstein are you saying that take the actuator out and open them up and clean them up and put aluminum foil on something? I will have to start looking on YouTube for sure!
Yea exactly its really not hard and you have them out anyway so it really doesnt hurt to try. The first one is the hardest just because your learning but after the first its pretty easy. Its not guaranteed its your problem but no reason u cant try before u try buying more

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With the issues fixed a 6.0 can run circles around a 7.3.
2000 F-350 7.3L ZF6
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SCT tuned
8" Fabtech lift 13" total
5:13 Gears
46" Goodyear MVTs Military takeoffs
Bushwacker Cut-Out Fender Flares
Ranch Hand front and rear bumper
On-board air W/Semi horns

1995 F-350 7.3L E4OD DRW
Standard 7.3 mods
PHP Hydra W/Tony Wildman tunes
160/0 Injectors
T-500 HPOP
E-fuel Conversion
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