Maintenance for 200k miles - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 14 Old 03-14-2013, 10:55 AM Thread Starter
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Maintenance for 200k miles

Well 200k is right around the corner on my odometer and I am curious about the weak points on my 7.3L. I use this to tow a lot and I want to be sure everything is tuned up for my 200k mile mark. I bought the truck with 170k miles on it with unknown maintenance.

What are good things to replace that are common to leave you stranded?
I want to make sure that never happens lol

Recent fixes:
Oil Change
Fuel Filter
Coolant Flush
Rear Axle Fluid Replacement
Driveshaft U-Joints Replaced
New Batteries
New brakes and rotors
New CPS
Tires and shocks are new also

Truck is in my signature.

Thanks!

2002 CCLB F350 7.3L 4x4 Lariat. Black with 2007 Tan leather interior. Mild towing tune, K&N CAI with sleeve, MBRP 4" exhaust straight pipe.
Kettering University off road diesel enthusiast
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post #2 of 14 Old 03-14-2013, 12:10 PM
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trans and transfer flush, if 4wd, center support bearing. Also, from reading, seems to be the lifespan on injectors. If planning on keeping her, i'd invest in the AE or atleast the Aeroforce Interceptor gauge.

99.5 x-cab 7.3l, 6spd, 161k miles.....
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post #3 of 14 Old 03-14-2013, 03:42 PM
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Flushing the power steering fluid with fresh mercon is not a bad idea. I would also flush the brake fluid and lube the caliper slide pins.

2002 F-350 4X4 ECLB 7.3 4R100 6637 filter w/ RiffRaff cover, 08 diff cover, 203* T-stat, HPX, Stancor Relay, 6.0 trans cooler, Zone leveling kit, 8'6" Western Ultramount
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post #4 of 14 Old 03-14-2013, 04:50 PM
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Keep an eye on your water pump. Do the theremostat and hoses at the same time.
Watch for oil leaks in the valley. My turbo pedistal and ebpv actuator all started leaking around there.
turbo up pipes likely need doing as well

PIS 175/80's, Van Turbo with EBPV, BD Billet Wheel
Lots of money spent at RiffRaff
Holley fuel pump, in tank mods, crappy riding leveling kit, DP-F6, 5 Gauges+Edge CS in dash, CB radio in Dash, over 100 goofy little mods
Still pretty slow, just less slow now.
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I love finally having my truck back... that 7.3 dog that I was driving was just not cutting it.
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post #5 of 14 Old 03-14-2013, 05:53 PM
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check unit bearings and ball joints

2000 F250 XcabSB, 4x4, 4" strait pipe, DIY intake, FRx, BDP tunes, WW2, 6.0 cooler, BTS VB, gauges, 55w digital projector HIDs
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post #6 of 14 Old 03-14-2013, 06:18 PM
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New front axle oil.
New vacuum hoses for 4x4.
New vent hoses for both axles.
CPS for the glove box.
Turbo rebuild kit. (optional, but it's cheap)
6637 intake kit. (folks like to claim K&N is awesomesauce, but why temp fate when problems are proven?)
More tunes for whatever chip you have, if for no other reason than an economy tune.
EGT and tranny temp gauges since you tow a lot

Check the wires on your shifter linkage. Mine was only causing OD to not be selectable, but others have experienced worse problems. I fixed mine with CAT5e cable. Works great.

2002 F250 CCSB 4x4
PHP Phoenix, John Woods VB, NUC bypass, 6637

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and it matters not whether it be an absolute royal power or an absolute
legislative power, as the consequences will be the same to the people."

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post #7 of 14 Old 03-15-2013, 05:43 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joel View Post
Keep an eye on your water pump. Do the theremostat and hoses at the same time.
Watch for oil leaks in the valley. My turbo pedistal and ebpv actuator all started leaking around there.
turbo up pipes likely need doing as well
I just did the thermostat and housing already, what hoses do you have to replace? That a common maintenance thing?
Will a turbo rebuild fix the pedistal leak? And will an ebpv delete fix the actuator leak?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Macon View Post
New front axle oil.
New vacuum hoses for 4x4.
New vent hoses for both axles.
CPS for the glove box.
Turbo rebuild kit. (optional, but it's cheap)
6637 intake kit. (folks like to claim K&N is awesomesauce, but why temp fate when problems are proven?)
More tunes for whatever chip you have, if for no other reason than an economy tune.
EGT and tranny temp gauges since you tow a lot

Check the wires on your shifter linkage. Mine was only causing OD to not be selectable, but others have experienced worse problems. I fixed mine with CAT5e cable. Works great.
I have EGT, trans temp, boost and voltage gauges already. And the tune on the truck came with it so I have no clue what kind of tune it is. I will be getting a TW or DP.

As for the K&N, I have heard from lots of people that the K&N sucks, but I have a sleeve on the intake, which restricts water and sand from getting into the air, as for dust, I am in MI, it is rarely dusty here. Other than that why is the K&N bad? It works great for me

2002 CCLB F350 7.3L 4x4 Lariat. Black with 2007 Tan leather interior. Mild towing tune, K&N CAI with sleeve, MBRP 4" exhaust straight pipe.
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post #8 of 14 Old 03-15-2013, 05:58 AM
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post #9 of 14 Old 03-15-2013, 05:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Stig View Post
I have EGT, trans temp, boost and voltage gauges already. And the tune on the truck came with it so I have no clue what kind of tune it is. I will be getting a TW or DP.

As for the K&N, I have heard from lots of people that the K&N sucks, but I have a sleeve on the intake, which restricts water and sand from getting into the air, as for dust, I am in MI, it is rarely dusty here. Other than that why is the K&N bad? It works great for me

Very glad you have the gauges already. Towing with tunes and no gauges is bad mojo imho. Custom tunes are the way to go, and you can't go wrong with the big names. I've been told I should try some others just to find which I like the most, but the PHP tunes are pretty badass. It's my understanding that TW tunes aren't that much different, though there is enough that some prefer one over the other. I want to try his tunes just to figure it for myself.

I actually want to get the PHP Hydra chip just so I can run multiple tuners and figure out which tunes from which tuner I prefer.

All I've ever heard of from K&N is the turbo dusting, but one of the GPDA guys had the sealant internal to the filter come apart and eat up his blades. Could be a one off issue, but it's not something I would chance. That's just me though, as there are plenty of folks that have ran K&N for tens of thousands of miles and never had a problem. There was a K&N on my truck when I bought it, and when I inspected the turbo, it looked fresh and clean. When replacement 6637's can be had for less than $30, I don't see a good risk/reward ratio for me to run the K&N.


*Edit

Have you done the CCV mod? If not, look into it. Before I did mine, I looking around the intake pre-turbo and saw the oil build up. A little oil was also in the intake of the turbo. Changed around my CCV tube, and the problem is solved.

2002 F250 CCSB 4x4
PHP Phoenix, John Woods VB, NUC bypass, 6637

"No country can be called free which is governed by an absolute power;
and it matters not whether it be an absolute royal power or an absolute
legislative power, as the consequences will be the same to the people."

--Thomas Paine, Four Letters on Interesting Subjects, 1776

Last edited by Macon; 03-15-2013 at 06:02 AM.
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post #10 of 14 Old 03-15-2013, 09:24 AM Thread Starter
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CCV mod is that the hydraulic line mod for the fuel injectors?

As for the K&N, I am awaiting until I have a little more mods, then I will do the 6637, because I have heard nothing but good things about that intake.

I want to upgrade my injectors too before they go bad, so hopefully I have about 2 years left of them lasting...

2002 CCLB F350 7.3L 4x4 Lariat. Black with 2007 Tan leather interior. Mild towing tune, K&N CAI with sleeve, MBRP 4" exhaust straight pipe.
Kettering University off road diesel enthusiast
Rush Automotive
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