Alternator...spent $2, saved $250 - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 10 Old 01-15-2008, 04:30 AM Thread Starter
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Alternator...spent $2, saved $250

The dashboard battery light pointed me to the alternator output guage and by that time, both batteries were below 12Volts. Auto parts store (really good independent) told me to check the connectors because they are often burned out. Well, mine looked good, but after pealing off the boot on the large wire, burn and rust were there.
Went to store and ordered up a new alternator, then got a new copper eye to replace the burned one. After doing that, mounted the old alternator just to test it...and Voila!
it worked fine.
Since this seems to be a common problem, suggest that your spare parts bin include a new eye (1/4" inlet, 1/8" eye) They also said that the multi-connect also got burned pretty regular, but I don't know whether a new one of those is available without getting the alternator. Anyone know?

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post #2 of 10 Old 01-15-2008, 05:03 AM
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well im not to good with the strokes yet but my main thought was you have a bad connection for anything to get burnt and rusted just seems like somethings not right to me..

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post #3 of 10 Old 01-15-2008, 05:15 AM Thread Starter
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This PSD was in Ohio for the first 6 years and rust got to the connection. My new connection isn't going to be covered by a full boot; going to coat it with CorrosionX so nothing gets trapped under the boot.

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4" cat-back exhaust
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post #4 of 10 Old 01-17-2008, 01:56 PM
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What connectors were rusted? The battery cables or the wires from the alternator.
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post #5 of 10 Old 01-18-2008, 04:48 AM Thread Starter
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On the top and rear of the alternator is a multi-connect and a larger wire that has an eye on the end. This eye goes onto a threaded post and that post and nut were rusted. That caused the connection to overheat.
The boot over the eye and post looked perfect. When I pried it off the post, it just crumbled apart and all the burn was easy to see. If you go to check yours, just have a new boot and new eye with you so you do the fix while you're there. I used CorrosionX to coat the eye instead of finding a boot that size.

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post #6 of 10 Old 01-18-2008, 07:06 AM
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Thanks, the post and boot looks good. My belt is loose. I think. I deflects quite a bit. I'll try that before a new alternator. Any 2 cents on a used alternator? Ant body? thanks for the help.
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post #7 of 10 Old 01-18-2008, 07:10 AM Thread Starter
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What voltage do the batteries show cold and then while the engine is idling? Does that voltage change when you turn on the headlights?
How much deflection with 10# of force (like placing the cork back in a wine bottle)?

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post #8 of 10 Old 01-18-2008, 03:20 PM
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Trying to get a charge.

New batteries were low when i bought them 2@ $85, about 12.2V. Truck running w/ 11.94V and turned on lights to 11.82A, turned lights off 11.93 V. That night I charged batteries for about 3 hours each to 12.6. Old belt flexed about 3/4 to 1 ". I replaced the belt and new belt does about the same. I think its time for a new alternator. $240 from NAPA, about $170 online and $75 from Junk yard. There is a large spectrum of prices for alternators. Any thoughts? Thanks again.
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post #9 of 10 Old 01-18-2008, 03:38 PM Thread Starter
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Heck, I'd go with a used one. If it works today, it could go for 5 years. BTW, the local parts guy was going to sell me one for about $150, so shopping is worthwhile. Also, if you get a used one, you can get the old one rebuilt as a spare (or eBay). Not sure of the cost, but it's worth a try. When I removed my alternator, it didn't even require the belt being removed, just do the three bolts and make the rear bolt the last one to take off while pressing down on the alternator to keep the threads from dulling.

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post #10 of 10 Old 01-19-2008, 03:29 AM
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If you want the best alternators or starters go to DB Electrical. They will set you up, not the cheapest but quality!!
Never buy these lifetime warranty junk, unless you like changing alternators and starters.
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