Stuck EBPV? Hard start and turbo slows truck down...

[Blitanicle99]

2000 Crew cab 7.3 4x4 197k... (need to update sig)

Picked this truck up last week and it is beyond clean. Looks like it has 50k on it.


Only in the am does she want to turn over for 30 seconds, no fire and second crank turn right over. Big nice white cloud of smoke and not a rough idle but EBPV clearly kicking on.

Let her warm up for 5-8 min while I make breakfast and while I leave the streets it's like the turbo wants to slow the truck down every 45 seconds at low speed. As soon as I start getting up to 45-50 mph it goes away.

Perfect starts and run the rest of the day. Could it be possible that my EBPV is stuck Orr...?

[timmyboy76]

my guess is glow plugs or the relay itself, are/is bad.

Also ,the "turbo holding back" is your EBPV stuck, or sensor keeping it closed from a false reading. Remove the EBP sensor and tube..(p/s front of motor, tube connects to manifold) and clean it.

[AgTires4295]

The EBPV will run itself around 50% if the parameters are still met while driving. Notice when you put a little more foot in it how the EBPV turns off, but slowly returns to around 50% when you ease off of the accelerator. Depending on how cold the ambient temp is and how your engine is warming, this could last several miles. It shouldnt be activated 100% while driving. Its completely normal.

[Blitanicle99]

Originally Posted by timmyboy76

my guess is glow plugs or the relay itself, are/is bad.

Also ,the "turbo holding back" is your EBPV stuck, or sensor keeping it closed from a false reading. Remove the EBP sensor and tube..(p/s front of motor, tube connects to manifold) and clean it.

Originally Posted by AgTires4295

The EBPV will run itself around 50% if the parameters are still met while driving. Notice when you put a little more foot in it how the EBPV turns off, but slowly returns to around 50% when you ease off of the accelerator. Depending on how cold the ambient temp is and how your engine is warming, this could last several miles. It shouldnt be activated 100% while driving. Its completely normal.

Could the two be related? I live in Atlanta, GA. Its not cold here. I only ask this because it only seems to do this in the morning when the EBPV has issues. The rest of the day, and if I went home, let it sit for 6 hours... she fires right up like nothing happened.

Also, the EBPV is the video I keep seeing on youtube that supposedly if you clean, you pick up a little fuel mileage? Front of the engine, long metal tube... Hooks up to the manifold?


I simply don't want to hurt the engine... It almost seems like the EBPV is creating a "jake break" or something that slows the engine down. She'll go for a good 45 seconds... 15-20 mph and then suddenly its like the engine slams on the brakes for 3-4 seconds and lets off.

This truck without doubt definitely gets warmer WAYYY quicker than my last 7.3 but the whole not being able to use my remote start because of this is a complete pain in the ***.

[AgTires4295]

The only way they are immediately related is in on initial startup. If your relay isn't working properly, the glow plugs will not get enough juice to heat the cylinders and make an efficient cold start (contributing to the white smoke).

The EBPV will engage itself after about a minute (you could install a switch to activate it immediately. This is what I've done and use on every start). Once the computer recognizes that the parameters have been met, it is hydraulically activated and will utilize itself 100% in most cases. If not cold enough, you will hear it make a constant "fluttering" sound where it will open and close until you either hit the brake or accelerator. Once in drive, it analyzes again and adjusts accordingly (like mentioned above, reference the 50%).

What is the ambient temp you're experiencing with the EBPV fluctuating?

[Blitanicle99]

Originally Posted by AgTires4295

The only way they are immediately related is in on initial startup. If your relay isn't working properly, the glow plugs will not get enough juice to heat the cylinders and make an efficient cold start (contributing to the white smoke).

The EBPV will engage itself after about a minute (you could install a switch to activate it immediately. This is what I've done and use on every start). Once the computer recognizes the parameters have been met, it is hydraulically activated and will utilize itself 100% in most cases. If not cold enough, you will hear it make a constant "fluttering" sound where it will open and close until you either hit the brake or accelerator. Once in drive, it analyzes again and adjusts accordingly (like mentioned above, reference the 50%).

What is the ambient temp you're experiencing with the EBPV fluctuating?

The fluttering... Yeah, it does that within say 45-60 seconds of start up. Almost like its cycling and the idle is up and down.

Outside... Maybe 40 degrees? Nothing super cold. Chilly, but nothing crazy.

Any chance my one of batteries is getting a dead cell, not getting enough power to the plugs because of sitting overnight?

[Blitanicle99]

Just tried to start it and it wasn't bad, maybe 3-5 seconds longer than normal.

But its cycling that EBPV quite hard. I want to clean that out immediately.

[AgTires4295]

Originally Posted by Blitanicle99

Any chance my one of batteries is getting a dead cell, not getting enough power to the plugs because of sitting overnight?

I'll say no on this one. If I'm correct, the starter cranking the engine taxes the batteries more so than running the glow plugs through a cycle. If you can turn the engine effectively, you are getting the necessary power from your batteries to the glow plugs unless your relay is beginning to fail.

[Blitanicle99]

I'm reading to do a bigger glow plug relay, like a 200 amp one.

Anyone actually done this and profited? They are the same price online...

[ProOnThaSnow]

Look up the Stancor relay mod. Everyone that does it has had pretty good success with them!