Locking Hubs

[jetskier2313]

I need to replace my ford auto locking hubs. I have heard that warn is really good. If I do get the warn locking hubs will I always have to manually enage them? Or does the auto locking feature still work even when the hubs are NOT locked.

[Raul@Stealth Automotive]

Warn are the best replacements but they will not work with the auto lock ... you will have to get out and lock them in... here is a link on them.... They only work on 99.5-04 SD/ex

Stealth Automotive. Warn Premium Hubs

[chrispaine]

are there any good replacement hubs that do work with the auto lock?

[bigcountrysg]

Originally Posted by chrispaine

are there any good replacement hubs that do work with the auto lock?

Not to my knowledge. The only replacement hubs are manual lock out only.

[Patrick]

I'm pretty sure you will need the conversion kit.

Discount Power Parts

[slow00si]

99+ doesnt need a conversion kit

[tubular031]

I have the Warn preimum hubs. when you look at the stock next to the warns, you will wonder WTF ford was thinking when they put those POS stockers on. Plus the stockers fail all the time. Mine failed and one of them would not lock (auto or by twisting the hub) and the other stayed locked all the time and would not unlock. that was when i decided to spend the money and get some hubs that would not let me down. They are simple to install too. takes all of about 5 to 10 minutes to do! (well maybe more with a little beverage service )

[jetskier2313]

If my auto hubs don't work its probably because the seals are bad in the hubs right?

I know my vacume pump works because I can still control the air ducts, or are there more then one pump?

[alabamafrog]

Usually hub seals but the regulator/solenoid on the fender has been known to fail also. Easy to check the system with a $20 handheld vacuum pump/tester (most parts store will loan one for free). The hubs should get a pulse of vacuum that lasts about 30 seconds when switched on and again when switched off. One pulse should be 6-7 and the other 15. If that is happening then the problem is in the hubs, you should be able to hook the tester to them and pump up to 15 vacuum pumping pretty fast by hand. If you can’t draw a vacuum then this leak is likely the problem. I have also disassembled my hub locks and cleaned and lubed them once to fix mine. Also sometimes when there is a problem the hubs will not lock but other times they will not unlock. It is important to periodically check to see if the are locking and unlocking right. I have my regulator/solenoid unplugged because I like to use 4x4 low for backing trailers but still want my wheels free to steer sharply.

[brian42]

I second what alabamafrog wrote. If you Google "Guzzle PSD" he has a website that has a bunch of maintenance and mod instructions. One of those is to clean your auto hubs. You should also engage and drive in 4x4 at least once a month to keep the system properly lubed and running correctly otherwise you can freeze your hubs or have other parts not work correctly either.

I just went through that fiasco. I had vacuum leaks (yes, leaks) and a failed solenoid. I had the chance to get the Warn Premium Hubs, but decided against it. I don't rock crawl and I want the convenience of engaging from the comfort of my cab. I don't want to get out and lock them in bad weather or mud. Right now you're saying I can just lock them before I leave for the day and unlock them at the end of the day. I don't engage 4wd the whole time I'm off the pavement and would prefer not to spin the axles for a couple hundred miles without the transfer case engaged. All you guys in the Great White Mid-West are yelling at the screen saying you have yours locked for 7 months out of the year and you don't have any problems. Call me cautious, but I've got 152k miles and I'm on the original ball joints, transmission and everything else (knock on wood) and will be as nice to my truck as possible to get another 150k out of it. Okay, so the hubs aren't original. I lied, sue me.