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post #1 of 7 Old 11-23-2007, 05:28 AM Thread Starter
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Need Help ???????

I know this should be in the problem section .But i was hopeing i could get more eyes looking at it here. I have a check engine light and rough idle it comes and goes when this happens its the first start of the day or when it sets for 12 hours at work seems to do it when its cooler out side. IT turns over and starts fine.The first time it did this it had cooled down and it was low on fuel after i put fuel in it the fuel guage acted funny for a couple of days moveing all over the place from 3/4 to full after it would run for awhile.Im very good about keeping fluid and filters changed. But i went ahead and changed the fuel filter early after this happened it wasnt dirty didnt help.I also changed the gpr found it wasnt working also changed cps two nights ago problem is back this morning you can set in drive way and watch this problem come and go and after it gets to normal operateing temp it goes away.I also here a low roar out in frount of the motor when this is going on also seems like the temp gauge is up just a little or maybe im just listening and watchig to much. weird i just want my truck back if i cant figure something out im haveing the codes pulled monday i just want to have some ideas before then i have had my fill with mechs around here in the past do alot of my own work if i know what it is . Could the fuel pump be weak or some what pluged or the screen in the pick up tube dirty you would thank it would do this all the time or could it be one of the wireing harnesses i read about breaking down. Thanks for your help ill shut up and read.

Early 1999 94,000m cooper 285s limo tint,blacked out front and rear lights, xm radio, alpine cd changer, backup lights. Future mods 4" turbo back,afe stage 11, Dp tunes,Guages,Tc.
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post #2 of 7 Old 11-23-2007, 05:42 AM
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First thing I would do is scan for codes. Then I would have an injector buzz test, and contribution test done. Being you are having problems when it is cold I suggest you have the shop do those tests when the engine is cold. I would also check the glowplug relays to make sure they are working properly. Another thing is if you have a flip chip put it on stock for the initial start up. As I have experinced hard cold starts with the chip in any other setting.


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post #3 of 7 Old 11-23-2007, 05:47 AM
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If you truck is equiped with a fan clutch that could be ther roar you are talking about. when it cool it should freewheel and hot should turn the fan more (lock up). The gage moving is more than likely the sender in the tank, or a wiring problem (loose connection or ground problem but I vote on tank sender). The GPR may have fixed you starting problem and rough idle, but check the codes anyway.
I hope this is of some help

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post #4 of 7 Old 11-23-2007, 05:57 AM Thread Starter
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Big country what is a contribution And injecter buzz test have an idea but like to no more and while were on the subject if im goin to take it to a mech what is a list of things that need to be checked just for my own use before i do my mods .Thanks

Early 1999 94,000m cooper 285s limo tint,blacked out front and rear lights, xm radio, alpine cd changer, backup lights. Future mods 4" turbo back,afe stage 11, Dp tunes,Guages,Tc.

Last edited by powerplant; 11-23-2007 at 06:02 AM.
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post #5 of 7 Old 11-23-2007, 06:14 AM
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An Injector Buzz test tells you if all your injectors are working. An Injector Contribution test tells you if all the injectors are working equally.

To do these test you need a diagnostic computer. Not a code scanner. What these tests will show is if there is any problems with injectors. A contribution test will tell you if you have a weak injector. A buzz test will tell you if you have an injector that is not working. The reason I say you should have these tests done when the engine is cold. Is because that is when your problem occurs according to your first posting. If I was the one checking the truck out I would do these tests when the engine is cold and then again when the engine is at normal op temp. That way I can compare the two results.

Another thing I would look at is the fuel heater element in the fuel filter housing. I say this because again your problem is when the engine is cold. But when the engine warms up your fuel would be warm as it goes through the injectors. Rather then being cold at intial start up. If the fuel heater element is not working all the time it may cause your rough idle at start up.

Your engine roar you are hearing could be the fan clutch like Gbear says, or the exhaust back pressure valve. When you start your truck up initially after it is running for a little while warming up. The exhaust back pressure valve closes and recirculates some of the exhaust gas to help warm the engine up faster. When you hear this roar push the break pedal to see if it goes away. If it does then the exhaust back pressure valve is the cause of your roar and is operating normal.

Fuel gauge is most likely the sending unit in the tank. The fuel pick up tube has 2 screens with in a plastic canister. You will have to drop the tank and open it up to inspect these. Drop the tank and remove the fuel pick up assembely. Then remove the plastic canister from the pick up tube. Then you have to use a small flat head screw driver to take the plastic canister apart when you open up the canister you will see two screens in there. Remove those two screens and use carb cleaner to clean them. I just did this to my truck. My screens were clogged with gunk. After I clean them I assembled everything and refilled the tank with fresh diesel I also added bio-con from napa, and lucas fuel injector cleaner to the tank.

Another thing to consider is change the oil. I started to get rough idle in the morning as well. I changed the oil and so far the engine has been much happier.


Your Actions Today, Decide Your Future Tomorrow

2005 6.0 Crew Cab Long Box Lariat, current truck

2004 6.0 destroyed by contaminated fuel

2002 7.3L burnt

Last edited by bigcountrysg; 11-23-2007 at 06:20 AM.
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post #6 of 7 Old 11-23-2007, 06:20 AM
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You can drive yourself crazy trying to troubleshoot something like this. That is the reason for the SES. CEL, light. It means you have a stored code, so this should be your first step have the codes read. If you post this in the 911 section and post your location maybe there is somebody close that will scan it for you. If you are near me I will do it for you. Many of the symptoms sound like you sucked some crud up in your pick up screen, but the part about it going away when warm is weird. In order to tell if you're getting enough fuel, turn the key on and quickly open the FB drain valve, you may want to place a hose on the end of a tube and into a pop bottle, the fuel should come out at a nice firm stream. You can also check your UVC harness connections but again it doesn't affect the fuel gauge or warming up bit. You really need the codes read first

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post #7 of 7 Old 11-23-2007, 07:02 AM Thread Starter
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Guys thankyou form all the information ive found a mech i think my dad has delt with him he does all the work on the local phone company trucks were going to pull codes monday he mentioned buzz test on the phone. Im going to drop my tank next week been wanting to do that for my own piece of mind. If anyone has anything else keep it comeing what a great site thanks.

Early 1999 94,000m cooper 285s limo tint,blacked out front and rear lights, xm radio, alpine cd changer, backup lights. Future mods 4" turbo back,afe stage 11, Dp tunes,Guages,Tc.
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