GLOW PLUGS 7.3 WHEN TO REPLACE - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum

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post #1 of 35 Old 11-20-2007, 08:02 PM Thread Starter
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GLOW PLUGS 7.3 WHEN TO REPLACE

I HAVE 78 K MILES WHEN DO THEY NEED TO BE REPLACED
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post #2 of 35 Old 11-20-2007, 08:16 PM
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I've seen glow plugs go at 20k and some last over 100k. Testing them and how your engine starts when cold is the only way to tell.

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post #3 of 35 Old 11-20-2007, 08:19 PM Thread Starter
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GLOW PLUGS

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Originally Posted by dirk0 View Post
I've seen glow plugs go at 20k and some last over 100k. Testing them and how your engine starts when cold is the only way to tell.
ARE THEY HARD TO REPLACE TRUCK ALWAYS STARTED GOOD BUT NOW IT TAKES SEVERAL ATTEMTS BUT WHEN PLUGGED IN UT STARTS FINE
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post #4 of 35 Old 11-20-2007, 08:22 PM
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I believe i saw another post by NCHornet that said the block heater has nothing to do with the GP's or the GPR.

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post #5 of 35 Old 11-20-2007, 08:24 PM
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They are not related, but they are. If it started when it has been plugged in (and cold outside), then I would look at the glow plugs and/or relay. If it is still warm out, and it needs to be plugged in... other issues exist.

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post #6 of 35 Old 11-21-2007, 04:12 AM
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Start with the troubleshooting below. If it starts fine with the block heater plugged in than you probably have problems with the GP system. Changing the GP's are easy, pulling the VC's is most of the work. Most of the time it is just the GPR, and if that is bad I highly suggest going with the Stancor model (586-902, IIRC)

How to check Glow Plug System

To check the Glow Plug Relay (GPR)
· Be sure the engine is cold, so that the PCM will tell the GPR to turn on. If the engine is hot, you won’t have as much time to check.
· Locate the GPR – Its behind the fuel filter on top of the engine, a little bit toward the passenger side of the valley. There may be two relays there. If so, the rear one is the GPR. It will have two fairly large wires (yellow and brown) connected to one of the large posts.
· With your multitmeter set to DC volts, and 15 V range (if not autoranging), clip the positive (red) lead to the output terminal (with yellow and brown wires connected), and the negative (black) lead to a good ground point (like the battery ground terminal or someplace metal directly on the engine block.)
· Turn the key to ON (do not start)
· If your GPR is good, it should click, and you’ll see 11 volts or so on your meter, then, depending on temperature, it will click off up to 2 minutes later. You should do this a couple of times to make sure it consistently makes the connection.
· If you don’t get voltage with this test, confirm by retesting as follows.
· Remove the two small wires from the smaller two of the four GPR terminals.
· With jumper wires, apply voltage from the battery across the two small terminals. If your voltmeter now reads voltage on the output terminal, your GPR is OK, and your problem is in the PCM circuit that tells the GPR to activate.

If your GPR is bad you can use the factory replacement for around $75, Napa's GP110 is close to this price maybe $10 cheaper. But you can get a GPR 109 from Napa for around $22.00 This is the same exact relay as the GP110 except the mounting holes are rotated 180 degrees, which is no big deal as the wires stretch just fine.
Now if you are tired of replacing your GPR and want a H.D. alternative may I suggest the Stancor 586-902. This is a large relay and it can truly handle the large AMP draw our trucks call for at start up. Gopher Electronics has these for under $40. I know several folks that live way up North (Alaska, Canada) where they know about serious cold starts and they all swear by the Stancor. I am very happy with mine, I believe I have pics of mine installed in my webshots.

To check Glow Plugs.
· Remove the electrical connector on the inboard side of valve cover at the gasket. Press down on the top of the connector latch and pry gently with a screwdriver. Photo of disconnecting one and another Photo of it loose.
· There will be 9 pins on the valve cover gasket where you removed the connector. The two pins furthest forward and the two pins furthest back are for your glow plugs.
· With your multimeter set to resistance (ohms) and low range (single digits) if not autoranging, clip the negative (black) lead to a good ground point.
· Probe each of the 4 outer pins individually with the positive (red) lead, noting the resistance. Good glow plugs will have a resistance between 0.6 and 2 ohms. If you get infinite resistance on any glow plug, that one is either bad or the connector under the valve cover has come loose.
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post #7 of 35 Old 11-10-2009, 05:13 PM
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NCH (kevin)
First of all, Awesome GP write up!

I just tested my glow plugs and i was getting 9-16 ohms out of them. Much more than 2. Does that mean mine are bad?

I have 120k on them and live where its cold

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post #8 of 35 Old 11-11-2009, 09:13 AM
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Is the Stancor Stancor 586-902 also available at Napa?

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post #9 of 35 Old 11-11-2009, 09:32 AM
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post #10 of 35 Old 11-16-2009, 02:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirk View Post
If it is still warm out, and it needs to be plugged in... other issues exist.
what are these issues?


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