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I would be afraid to use the 1/2 inch fitting in there, I know its not the right thread because I had tried that at first and it screwed in but the threads were real sloppy, I was worried about tearing up the aluminum threads or it coming loose and falling out, so put mine back together for a few days and ordered mine, I think I paid 8 bucks for it but it had the right threads a new brass sealing washer and the 1/8 inch compresion fitting for the boost line. Guess I just wanted a little piece of mind haha! thats just my Not trying to step on any toes!
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I used a 1/2" NPT brass plug with a little tef. tape. Works perfect, being NPT the threads are a little loose in the beginning but 2/3 of the way in it was tight(the threads) I think NPT is cut on a taper or something. Also you can use a Cummins oil drain plug but I went to a hyd repair shop and they have all you would need to use it for a boost reading. I got a plug and plug with threads in it for another fitting(don't know waht its called) and another part all for less than $7. It took me longer to find the specs online than it did to do the Mod.
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The AIH takes up about 20% of your intake area. I just took mine out a week ago and it's a big honker! I'd tell you that my truck feels more responsive but that's probably my mind playing tricks on me with my SOTP (Seat-Of-The-Pants) dyno. I toyed with the idea of making my own "code killer" with a 470 ohm resistor but decided against it. I can easily get to the terminals if I need it. Most people say they don't ever get a soft code anyway (engine code that doesn't light up your check engine light). My service manual tells me that it doesn't come on until the outside temp is 0F and the oil is below a certain temp. Even then it only comes on for 30 minutes once per engine run cycle (each time the truck is started). Not worth the money to buy or the time to make (unless you live somewhere really, really cold). I got my plug from Napa (I don't have the part number on me). It is an oil drain plug and comes with a rubber coated brass washer. It is 22x1.5mm and the center is the same size as the 3/8" ratchet without a socket on it (square inverted head). It was only $8 and change and fits perfectly. Torque that baby to 25 ft-lbs and you're good to go! Hope this helps. |
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You'd have to check. I know the earlier trucks were hit and miss, some had them and some didn't. You can check by looking at the intake pipe (just before the spider) within a foot of going into the throttlebody. If you're standing in front of your grill and facing the firewall (and who wouldn't be) look over your engine dressing cover (that says POWERSTROKE on it) at the intake tube portion behind it towards the firewall. If you have something that vaguely resembles the top of a spark plug sticking out of your intake tube with 2 wires connected to it then you have it. If you have nothing or a plug then you don't.
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I paid a $1 for my copper plug at the plumbing store and it has the hole in the center to fit my boost plug.
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