Figured this may help someone who finds himself in my shoes (in the driveway, in the dark, with what you thought were all the parts you'd need, on the night before Christmas eve...with no spare vehicle).
1.) Buy/Rent/Borrow the proper tool for the fan clutch nut. I did the strap wrench/pipe wrench combo and mostly busted my knuckles and cussed. Called my buddy (actual
diesel mechanic...not the shade tree variety) and he set the 2 wrenches on his tailgate for my wife to swing by and pick-up. Took all of 2 seconds to loosen, and zero heartburn, using the right tools.
2.) If you have an 02 like me, your original waterpump (or perhaps a replacement
) will have a short nipple of a lower outlet neck that just comes straight off the pump. If you buy the replacement lower radiator hose for an 02, it will be bent correctly and have the correct length to accommodate this style of lower outlet neck. My problem was, I bought an Airtex AW4114 water pump, which fits the truck, comes with ALL relevant gaskets, and a NEW lower outlet neck...just turns out the lower outlet neck is the 90deg style that is longer and apparently more common. In addition to being longer and bent, it is also a larger diameter, so you can't just cut the hose to make it work, nor will your factory spring hose-clamp work
The correct hose is flared on that end to account for this, and switching to worm-gear hose clamps seems like a better idea than spring clamps anyway, so that change just forces your hand.
Luckily local auto parts store had some limited hours on Christmas eve and I got it straightened out.
In my case (02 F350, 7.3, SRW, 6spd Manual, 4x4) the correct parts were:
Airtex AW4114 water pump (included t-stat gasket, water pump gasket, heater hose pipe o-ring, lower outlet o-ring and a new lower outlet neck with bolts). Less than $100 with a lifetime warranty.
Gates 22433 Upper AROUND the belt radiator hose.
Gates 22434 Lower hose (for earlier than 02 super duty...CORRECT hose for the 90deg outlet neck).
Gates 22690 is INCORRECT, but is the listed lower hose for this truck.
Stant 14269 was the 195deg t-stat I put in. Couldn't find any conclusive evidence to support going hotter, so I just stuck with what's worked for the past 230k miles.
Motorcraft RH-63 t-stat housing. Didn't go billet because mine didn't leak..."ain't broke, don't fix it"...so I couldn't justify over 2x the cost for a part that seemed to be working fine. If I replace the pump again, I'll replace the housing again, and I'll still have money in my pocket compared to buying billet. If I end up replacing the t-stat over and over, maybe I'll regret that decision, but again, I'm at 230k miles and haven't had a problem yet [knocking on my wooden desk as I type].
I also replaced an idler pulley and the serpentine belt while I was there, as well as the aforementioned worm-gear style hose clamps in favor of spring clamps (remember, at least 1 is going to be necessary if you have the factory style hose and swap to the earlier style due to the new outlet neck).
There. Just figured I'd sum up my experience in case someone searches in the future because if I'd read that before I started, my night would have gone much smoother.
2005 F350 Lariat, DRW, CCLB, 6.0L, 6spd, 4x4 (all the normal stuff replaced, leaky head gaskets [again]...)
2006 F450 XL, DRW, RCNB (regular cab, no bed
), 6.0L, Auto, RWD. Stock head gaskets, stock bolts, running strong without a hint of puking.
2000 Excursion (project)
2001 TDI Jetta (wife's ride). Injectors. Still slow as molasses in winter.