Am I being unrealistic?

[ace44]

Thanks for the video, never thought about giving it any throttle. Will give that a try. Haven't had time to mess with it this last week, hopefully get something done next week.

[dieselcrawler]

I have also noticed that giving it some throttle when trying to start will help at times. If it's trying to catch, and you give it a little pedal, it will fire, and die if you let off, hold it down a bit, then slowly let off, it will calm it'self down to an idle... I've noticed it tends to 'romp' when cold, and will smooth out in a minute or so... but this is also on the yellow truck, which I now has injectors that stick, hence the reason I plug it in if I gotta start it.

[1BADTON]

Hey Just a thought? Have you checked/changed the oil in the HPOP res? To my understanding the oil up in there does not circulate as well and if it is thick when you start in that temp. I think it couldn't hurt to suck it out and change it to the thinner weight oil?

[dieselcrawler]

Originally Posted by 1BADTON

Hey Just a thought? Have you checked/changed the oil in the HPOP res? To my understanding the oil up in there does not circulate as well and if it is thick when you start in that temp. I think it couldn't hurt to suck it out and change it to the thinner weight oil?

When will people understand THAT IT'S ALL THE SAME OIL!!!! Sure, you could go to the trouble of changing it out, putting in the new stuff, run it, and in a matter of time, (seconds to a minute) of running, it's all mixed in together again!

So, for lighter oil to be effective, change it all... yup, you need 4 gallons of lighter viscocity oil, might as well grab a filter too, and do it right. And even then, you're still going to have about 1-2 qrts in the oil passages/HPOP that is the old stuff, but it will get diluted with the new lighter stuff just fine.

This discussion is geared towards situations where you do not have the option of plugging your truck's block heater in, so I won't go into how I keep mine plugged in just to keep them close to operating temp when ever possible.

[1BADTON]

Originally Posted by dieselcrawler

When will people understand THAT IT'S ALL THE SAME OIL!!!! Sure, you could go to the trouble of changing it out, putting in the new stuff, run it, and in a matter of time, (seconds to a minute) of running, it's all mixed in together again!

So, for lighter oil to be effective, change it all... yup, you need 4 gallons of lighter viscocity oil, might as well grab a filter too, and do it right. And even then, you're still going to have about 1-2 qrts in the oil passages/HPOP that is the old stuff, but it will get diluted with the new lighter stuff just fine.

This discussion is geared towards situations where you do not have the option of plugging your truck's block heater in, so I won't go into how I keep mine plugged in just to keep them close to operating temp when ever possible.

DC thanks for the education I guess I should have given alittle more detail in my post earlier, I do realize it is all the same oil but I guess my misunderstanding is how fast it is circulated? When I learned about changing the res oil a while back after changing and drive my 01 for a bit even though the engine oil was new, when I pulled the oil out of the res it was still dirty and black. But Like I stated before it was just a thought.

[dieselcrawler]

badton: I mean no disrespect by my post, not picking on you personally, just the common idea that curculates that the HPOP oil is isolated from the rest of the crankcase oil, as it is not. I do not know the exact capacity of the HPOP and injector system, but over all, from what I have read here on PS. org, I don't think it's worth the effort, nor do I know the exact time it will take to TOTALLY replace the HPOP oil with fresh stuff after an oil change. However, common sense, I'd bet it's circulated and mixed up enough, for all practical perpouses, after a 10 mile drive at 30 MPH. That's 2 trips taking the kids to school for me...

I do know that after a fresh oil change, and the same 10 mile trip as an example, the new oil looks just as black as the oil I drained out 10 miles earlier, when checked on the dip stick.

I would be interested in the temp ranges for the standard 5-40 and the lower visc. oil one might use in colder locations, and how much they overlap. I have never changed for the winter months, as I only put about 13-15K a year on each truck, so a winter oil change might last untill warmer months, when the lighter oil might not be so good for the engine.

[hollister25073]

My truck has always stumbled more when set on a tune more so in cold weather so I always drop it back down to the stock setting while my egts cool down before I shut the truck off for the night


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[justinlogue5_0]

Originally Posted by dieselcrawler

When will people understand THAT IT'S ALL THE SAME OIL!!!! Sure, you could go to the trouble of changing it out, putting in the new stuff, run it, and in a matter of time, (seconds to a minute) of running, it's all mixed in together again!

So, for lighter oil to be effective, change it all... yup, you need 4 gallons of lighter viscocity oil, might as well grab a filter too, and do it right. And even then, you're still going to have about 1-2 qrts in the oil passages/HPOP that is the old stuff, but it will get diluted with the new lighter stuff just fine.

This discussion is geared towards situations where you do not have the option of plugging your truck's block heater in, so I won't go into how I keep mine plugged in just to keep them close to operating temp when ever possible.

Changing the oil in the hpop resevoir won't help in this case BUT I want to go on record saying that changing the oil in the resevoir isn't a bad idea every now and then but not needed all the time. Before you get upset let me explain my reasoning and what I have found after removing my resevoir to install a new hpop.

When you first crank the 7.3 the oil goes directly to the resevoir bypassing the filter untill the motor gets to about 7psi. Any trash,soot etc... particles goes directly to the resevoir. The hpop doesn't pull from the bottom of the resevoir so some oil always sits there. Think of it like a sediment bowl. When I pulled my resevoir off it was full of a black sludge like stuff so I cleaned it out since I was already there. So I had all new oil,clean resevoir,new hpop,new injectors etc.. so every thing was new and clean fresh oil and couple miles of driving, everything was all black again. So a recap changing it everynow and then good,changing it with every oil change,pointless. Ok carry on,lol

[1BADTON]

DC it would take way more then that for me to feel disrespected, we are good brother. I see your point. and JL50 believe me I did the same thing when I installed my new hpop, and I learned it off of everyones favorite guy on powerstrokehelp.com. But don't you two laugh to hard cause my theory was that since it has to build pressure to fire the injectors if the viscosity is to thick for the temps outside I thought the old oil might be trapped up in there since the drain in the res is poor to my understanding