Moog Ball Joint Break In? - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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  #1  
Old 11-14-2012, 01:39 PM
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Moog Ball Joint Break In?

I installed Moog ball joints recently and have put about 1,000 miles on them. My steering dosnt return to center and is tough to keep in a straight line. All my tie rod ends are tight and i installed a new Bilstein stabilizer, just had a re alignment today and the symptoms still remain. I installed the ball joints to the torque spec required and in sequence but there just too tight. I'm wondering if they still need more time to break in or if i got some bad joints. What do you think?
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Old 11-14-2012, 04:09 PM
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did you install the stabilizer at the same time as the balljoints. try removing the stabilizer an see if the steering changes
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Old 11-14-2012, 04:15 PM
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zero break in time
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Old 11-14-2012, 04:26 PM
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you list 4 different rigs in your sig. is this a 4x4? if so, dod you knock teh camber sleeves loose and up? they must be higher than necassary when you install the knuckle so they set right and don't put your ball joints in a bind. ask me how i know?...

so i changed the drivers side ball joints...

SM
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Old 11-14-2012, 07:06 PM
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I installed the stabilizer after and it helped a little. I may take it apart this weekend and try to reset the hubs. Anyone else feel that the moog torque is a little high at 150ft-lb for the bottom and 69ft-lb for the top? After I torqued them I could barely move the hub by hand. Ill try resetting the sleeves. Any torque tricks you guys are using? If I re set my ball joints will the ones I have now be fine or do I have to run new again. The truck is the 2000 f350. Sticker monster how did you torque the ball joints?
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Old 11-14-2012, 07:15 PM
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here is a set of moog instructions that i found helpful. pay particular attention to images #3 and 4 of the removal procedure. the torque sequence used is the same as the ford workshop manual procedure. tighten the bottom to 35 foot pounds then the top to 69 foot pound plus whatever is necassary to get the cotter pin in then the bottom to 150 foot pounds. since you have it all back together, you could just pop the top loose and using a puller raise up the camber sleeve and then retorque the top ball joint without removing the axle.

SM
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File Type: pdf moog instructions.pdf (969.2 KB, 219 views)

Last edited by Sticker Monster; 11-14-2012 at 07:21 PM.
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Old 12-28-2012, 04:04 AM
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Been meaning to update you guys on the ball joint situation. I did my ball joints about a month ago and thought that maybe driving it would loosen things up but that was not the case. So i read through the direction the you posted Sticker Monster and the small detail about removing the camber/caster sleeve is a big deal!!!! I took the tires off and tie rod ends so i could break the top and bottom ball joint nuts loose. I knocked on the hub a couple times to un seat the ball joints. I started on the drivers side and the caster sleeve was 100% frozen in place. After beating on it and using every tool i had, it finally broke loose. I pulled it out, cleaned it with a wire wheel and greased it. I slid it back into the hub with ease. Dont worry about messing up your alignment since the sleeve has a flat spot on it that can only go into the hub one way. Since i did this all in place and the U joints are in the way to get a socket in there, so i bought a wrench to fit the lower nut. I tightened the bottom nut to what i felt was 150ft lbs and then tightened the top to the 69ft lb or so. Once i finished i could see that the caster sleeve was sitting about a 1/16" higher than when i took it out and the hub was moving back and forth freely.

Moral of the story is that when you press in the new ball joints there never going to seat exactly the same as the old ones. That means that the caster sleeve is going to have to be adjusted as well. The reasoning behind the torque sequencing i believe is that when you tighten the lower ball joint first it is suppose to raise the caster sleeve and seat everything properly. But since the sleeve was frozen i basically jammed the upper ball joint. Then once i finished tightening i could barley move the hub.

Since i reset both sides my memory steer is about gone and there is no wondering. All i need is a steering box and it should be brand new. For all you guys with memory steer problems and new ball joints see if the shop removed, greased and re set the camber/caster sleeve. If not chances are that is your problem.
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Old 03-22-2013, 09:48 AM
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I am currently having this issue. They did an alignment but I am not sure the replaced the sleeves or not. I guess I need to check to see if the sleeves look new or not.
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Old 03-25-2013, 08:52 AM
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Anyone else have this issue?
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Old 03-29-2013, 06:40 PM
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I had the moogs installed at a shop since I did not have time to do the job myself. Ever since they installed them I have the same issue you guys describe. 15-20k miles since and still have the issue. It got a little better over time but still has the memory. I also have quite a bit more slop in the steering. Shop said all is ok and its my steering box. Replaced the steering box and no change. Replaced tierods, pitman arm joint, and the lower tie rod and still have the wonder and slop steering. I am about to replace the balljoints myself this time just to see if that fixes the issue. Its a chore to keep the truck going straight on the highway. Then add a 35 foot 5er and its a real adventure!!!

I hate letting anyone touch my truck because they always F**K it up!!!!
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