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If you want it to last I’d recommend a good clean running intake like the Baldwin PA2818 to save from dusting the engine and doing the fuel tank and prepump filter mods to save the injectors by keeping air and trash from a bad load of fuel out and a temp gauge on the tranny with Amsoil or some other good synthetic fluid in it. I have had to rebuild the engine, replace the injectors, replace the tranny, alt, water pump, ball joints, tie rods, brake rotors, turbo, starter (twice), pcm, door actuators, etc, etc, and mine has 210,000 miles on it now. I'd guess that just the parts bill for mine is over $12,000 so far with me providing all the labor and shopping around for prices.
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Here is a good writeup on the fuel tank mod. Welcome to guzzle's In-tank Hutch Mod Web Page Here is lots of info for intakes Intake Information
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I can’t look at the above link cause it is blocked by our company computer. Here is a link to the pics I took while doing mine. Shutterfly | View Shared Pictures The factory quick connect fitting work fine under pressure but tend to leak air in under vacuum so I deleted all of them on the suction side of the pump by running rubber fuel line with worm hose clamps. The factory mixing chamber on the pickup foot tends to leak air in at low tank levels and looks like it puts air returning from the engine right back in the system. I deleted it and replaced it wits a metal pipe. I also removed the screen from the foot and put the large fuel filter inline before the pump where it is very easy to check and/or change. The replacement filters are about $5 and will greatly extend the life of the $25 factory filter and help save the system from contamination. From what I understand air, water, and thrash are what ruins injectors more than miles. Last edited by alabamafrog : 10-22-2007 at 05:51 AM. |
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i have a 2001 7.3 and i have 154000 and its had a water pump and an alt. and thats it
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