Hub assembly and Warn hub replacement - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum

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post #1 of 15 Old 09-15-2012, 10:30 AM Thread Starter
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Hub assembly and Warn hub replacement

Just starting this project, and I'll post pics when I get done.....



6637, Diamond Eye Turbo Back, Riffraff Billet Intake Plenums and Intercooler Boots, WW2, Deleted EBPV
305 70 16 Toyo A/T IIs


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Last edited by jse51599; 09-15-2012 at 10:45 AM. Reason: Trying to enlarge pics.
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post #2 of 15 Old 09-15-2012, 01:34 PM
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Awesome! Ordering mine this Friday. Doing ball joints while I am in there as well.

Look forward to hearing about your experience. Good luck!

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post #3 of 15 Old 09-15-2012, 01:46 PM Thread Starter
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First off, I will say that this project was a lot easier than I expected. Although, for the guys up norf, it may not be as easy to seperate the hub from the knuckle due to rust issues, eh? Anyway, some of the tools you'll need are: a BFH, spray lube, anti-seize, brake cleaner, 1/2 in. breaker bar, ratchet, extension, 17 and 21 mm sockets. Snap ring pliers, needle nose pliers, rags, grease, long handle flat screwdriver or pry bar, patience, and more importantly, beer! If anyone else that has done this job has any other tools, pics, or info, feel free to post!


First step is to remove the retaining ring around the lockout. Needle nose pliers worked well for me.





Next step, remove caliper and then the caliper bracket.







Next, remove the inner snap ring w/ the snap ring pliers. then pull out the 3 washers. (the hex washer goes in between the 2 round ones upon re-installing).



Locate the 4 nuts that attach the hub assembly studs to the steering knuckle. Use the 21mm socket and extension.




Once you remove the nuts, hit the flange that the wheel studs are attached to w/ your BFH. W/ luck it won't give you too much trouble. Once it's off, inspect the flange and clean off any surface rust w/ a wire brush.



If it's a pita, step back and have one of these:


6637, Diamond Eye Turbo Back, Riffraff Billet Intake Plenums and Intercooler Boots, WW2, Deleted EBPV
305 70 16 Toyo A/T IIs


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post #4 of 15 Old 09-15-2012, 02:10 PM Thread Starter
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I bought my hub assemblies from Carquest for around $275 per side. They seem to be good quality, but time will tell.... Mine came w/ the 4 new studs and the new black o-ring (already installed). I would recommend getting the hubs that come w/ those parts since I've heard that they can be a bi**h to get out. It'll save some frustration.



Flip the hub over and install the studs (either end of the stud will thread into the flange) I used some anti-seize on these studs and also the flange that rests against the knuckle. There was a little bit of grease on the needle bearings, but I added more to them, and also on the spindle.




Once you finish re-installing the hub, (don't forget the dust cover, and don't install backwards either...) put the washers back on (round washer first, hex washer next, round washer last, and then the snap ring). I'm not sure of torque specs, I just tightened the 4 hub nuts as much as I could w/ the breaker bar. But remember, tight is tight, too tight is broke.... This is what it looks w/ new brakes, rotors, and hubs. Nice and shiny, for a little while anyway...




The last step was the Warn hubs. I bought the Premium Hubs since most of the reviews were positive for them. I got them on Amazon for $205 shipped.

6637, Diamond Eye Turbo Back, Riffraff Billet Intake Plenums and Intercooler Boots, WW2, Deleted EBPV
305 70 16 Toyo A/T IIs


Jim




Last edited by jse51599; 09-16-2012 at 11:53 AM.
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post #5 of 15 Old 09-15-2012, 02:35 PM Thread Starter
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Install the body assembly of the lockout first. (screw holes facing out) Then take the outer lock ring and bend one end of it about 5 to 10 degrees. the bent tab goes toward the outside of the hub, It's supposed to aid in removal when servicing in the future.






Then install the o-ring, and using the six allen screws, attach the cap assembly to the body assembly, leaving the lockout in the 'free' position. You'll need a 9/64 allen wrench.



Here's the finished product....



The only thing I don't care for is that the lockouts sit a little bit farther back inside the center cap. Not a big deal, but it's the little things, right? Anyway, once the Warn hubs are on, lock it in to make sure it's operating properly. Then unlock it and make sure the axle free wheels. I had to turn the axle backwards to make it disengage.




Now that I'm finished, maybe I should re-stock the beer fridge.....


6637, Diamond Eye Turbo Back, Riffraff Billet Intake Plenums and Intercooler Boots, WW2, Deleted EBPV
305 70 16 Toyo A/T IIs


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post #6 of 15 Old 09-16-2012, 11:49 AM Thread Starter
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This video is of the passenger side, and it shows how bad it was getting. The driver's side wasn't as bad, but it was squeaking every once in a while. I have around 162,000 on the truck, and I'm guessing the hubs are original, but don't know for sure....


6637, Diamond Eye Turbo Back, Riffraff Billet Intake Plenums and Intercooler Boots, WW2, Deleted EBPV
305 70 16 Toyo A/T IIs


Jim



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post #7 of 15 Old 01-12-2013, 07:37 AM
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Hey Great thread! Came in useful doing mine! Thanks alot

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post #8 of 15 Old 01-12-2013, 03:03 PM
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Wow this is great....I have a question...
With all the rain I've gotten lately I needed 4 wheel drive. Make a long story short my Hubs aren't locking automatically anymore so I am going to go ahead and get the warn premium hubs...Can I just remove the retaining ring, pull out the factory locking hubs and put the warns in? Probably a dumb question but I'm not too savvy with 4wd components. Thanks
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post #9 of 15 Old 01-12-2013, 03:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pipewrench View Post
Wow this is great....I have a question...
With all the rain I've gotten lately I needed 4 wheel drive. Make a long story short my Hubs aren't locking automatically anymore so I am going to go ahead and get the warn premium hubs...Can I just remove the retaining ring, pull out the factory locking hubs and put the warns in? Probably a dumb question but I'm not too savvy with 4wd components. Thanks
Yes, one of the easiest things I did on my truck was install my hubs.

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6 Inch ProComp Lift, 315/75/16 BFGoodrich All Terrain Tires, BTS Transmission, 175/100 P.I.S. Injectors, PMF Traction Bars, Garrett 38r, International Up Pipes, Dyno Proven Tunes, 6.0 Transmission Cooler, CCV mod, MBRP 4" Turbo-Back Exhaust, RiffRaff Over Boost Code Regulator, Moto Metal MO951 Black Rims, Dual Sky Jacker Steering Stabilizers, GlowShift Gauges, Mile Marker 449SS Lockout Hubs, 6637 Intake.

Putting this old PMR truck to the test....
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post #10 of 15 Old 01-12-2013, 03:21 PM
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Thanks ramkiller. I'll order them as soon as I get the dough.
So to reiterate, all I need to do is...
1)Remove the retaining ring with needle nose
2)Pull out existing auto locking hub
3)Put new hub in
4)Re-install retaining ring
5)Find vacuum lines and plug them
Does that sound correct? Do you have any advice on locating/plugging vacuum lines. I'm sure it has to be on the forum somewhere, I'll search for it. Just figured I'd ask while we are on subject. Thanks
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