Pulling motor need help! - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
 
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post #1 of 9 Old 08-27-2012, 01:30 PM Thread Starter
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Pulling motor need help!

I have 2002 F-350 and I am pulling the motor do replace my oil pan and from transmission seal and rear main. While engine is out I was thinking of replacing up-pipes and both exhaust manifolds. Do you guys recommend any other work while im in there. I only have 128,000 miles on her

2002 Ford F-350 7.3L
Regular cab
8 ft. bed 4x4
Isspro EV gauges (pyro, trans temp, boost)
6637 Intake with Donaldson B085011
Ts 6 position performance chip
4" downpipe to a side pipe with 5" tip

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post #2 of 9 Old 08-27-2012, 01:42 PM
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I honestly dont see a reason to replace the up pipes unless they're cracked or the manifolds unless they're leaking. I have replaced an oil pan once by just jacking the engine up. The donut gaskets go bad where the up pipes go into the turbo i'd replace them. Hope this helps

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post #3 of 9 Old 08-27-2012, 01:49 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Ricemiester View Post
I honestly dont see a reason to replace the up pipes unless they're cracked or the manifolds unless they're leaking. I have replaced an oil pan once by just jacking the engine up. The donut gaskets go bad where the up pipes go into the turbo i'd replace them. Hope this helps
Can you jack up the engine and just pull back the tranny to get at the oil pan? That's my main concern! How'd you block it in place when you lifted it up? Thank you for the help!

2002 Ford F-350 7.3L
Regular cab
8 ft. bed 4x4
Isspro EV gauges (pyro, trans temp, boost)
6637 Intake with Donaldson B085011
Ts 6 position performance chip
4" downpipe to a side pipe with 5" tip

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post #4 of 9 Old 08-27-2012, 02:17 PM
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If the manifolds aren't cracked then I'd leave them but replace the bolts if theyre rusty. If the up pipes aren't leaking I'd still replace at least the donuts while it's out. Go for the bellowed pipes if you have the cash.

I'd just pull the motor. With a good helper I can have it pulled in about two hours. Much easier to work on when it's swinging on a cherry picker or on a stand. And if you break a manifold bolt it's a lot easier to deal with.


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2001 F350 SRW CC 4WD LB
ZF6 w/ Southbend, 220k, DIY Intake, WW,NonEBPV Pedestal, CCV Mod, Gauges (Boost, Pyro), 2in Leveling Kit, 4" Straight MBRP, AIH Delete, 2-12" Kicker Comp's, Pioneer Amps
2001 F350 DRW EC 2WD (Rolled Over)
2000 F550 CC 2WD
Automatic, Jasper 4R100 w/Derale Pan & 6.0 Cooler, DIY Intake, AIH Delete, 4" MBRP,

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post #5 of 9 Old 08-29-2012, 10:00 AM
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Another thought i had is also rebuild the oil cooler. Lots easier and less messy when the motor is out. It may not be leaking yet but a 10+ yo gasket and o ring is probably cracked and ready to leak.


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2001 F350 SRW CC 4WD LB
ZF6 w/ Southbend, 220k, DIY Intake, WW,NonEBPV Pedestal, CCV Mod, Gauges (Boost, Pyro), 2in Leveling Kit, 4" Straight MBRP, AIH Delete, 2-12" Kicker Comp's, Pioneer Amps
2001 F350 DRW EC 2WD (Rolled Over)
2000 F550 CC 2WD
Automatic, Jasper 4R100 w/Derale Pan & 6.0 Cooler, DIY Intake, AIH Delete, 4" MBRP,

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post #6 of 9 Old 08-29-2012, 10:03 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Schnot View Post
Another thought i had is also rebuild the oil cooler. Lots easier and less messy when the motor is out. It may not be leaking yet but a 10+ yo gasket and o ring is probably cracked and ready to leak.


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How would I go about that? The oil cooler in front of the radiator?

2002 Ford F-350 7.3L
Regular cab
8 ft. bed 4x4
Isspro EV gauges (pyro, trans temp, boost)
6637 Intake with Donaldson B085011
Ts 6 position performance chip
4" downpipe to a side pipe with 5" tip

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post #7 of 9 Old 08-29-2012, 10:04 AM
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Pull the engine. To properly seal the oil pan, the motor needs to be upside down for 24hrs once the pan has been installed.

As said earlier, the bellowed up pipes are pricey but nice and easier to replace when the motor is out.

I wouldn't touch the manifolds unless you see an issue with them.
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post #8 of 9 Old 08-29-2012, 10:13 AM
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Nope that would be the trans cooler. The oil cooler is on the drivers side of the motor just below the manifold. It looks like a 3" pipe that's about 18" long. The ends are just pressed on lightly and there's two big o rings in each end. Tap the ends off with a rubber mallet and put new o rings on well oiled up. To put it back together I use my floor jack as a press and press the ends back on. Basically stand the cooler on end and wedge it under the bumper and jack it up til it pops into place. Doesn't take much. Just remember to use a block of wood on the jack so you don't bend the cooler tubes.


Sent from my Autoguide iPhone app

2001 F350 SRW CC 4WD LB
ZF6 w/ Southbend, 220k, DIY Intake, WW,NonEBPV Pedestal, CCV Mod, Gauges (Boost, Pyro), 2in Leveling Kit, 4" Straight MBRP, AIH Delete, 2-12" Kicker Comp's, Pioneer Amps
2001 F350 DRW EC 2WD (Rolled Over)
2000 F550 CC 2WD
Automatic, Jasper 4R100 w/Derale Pan & 6.0 Cooler, DIY Intake, AIH Delete, 4" MBRP,

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post #9 of 9 Old 09-05-2012, 01:23 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Schnot View Post
Nope that would be the trans cooler. The oil cooler is on the drivers side of the motor just below the manifold. It looks like a 3" pipe that's about 18" long. The ends are just pressed on lightly and there's two big o rings in each end. Tap the ends off with a rubber mallet and put new o rings on well oiled up. To put it back together I use my floor jack as a press and press the ends back on. Basically stand the cooler on end and wedge it under the bumper and jack it up til it pops into place. Doesn't take much. Just remember to use a block of wood on the jack so you don't bend the cooler tubes.


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Thank you I find this very helpful!

2002 Ford F-350 7.3L
Regular cab
8 ft. bed 4x4
Isspro EV gauges (pyro, trans temp, boost)
6637 Intake with Donaldson B085011
Ts 6 position performance chip
4" downpipe to a side pipe with 5" tip

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