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making my own battery cables
I am going to be making my own and I am going to be soldering on the connections so i want to know if this wire fine for what I am replacing on the 7.3l???
THE WIRES ZONE BC1/0B-50 1/0 GAUGE 50' FEET POWER/GROUND WIRE BATTERY CABLE BLK | eBay this is getting more confusing...this is some research i have found out. standard in the industies 4 gauge diameter=9-10mm 0 gauge diameter= 12-13m went and measured the cable diameter on the truck and here is what i found ground wires= 12.34mm crossover battery wire between batteries=10.25mm battery line from battery to starter=16mm so as a guess the ground lines are 1/0 gauge, the crossover battery cable is 4 gauge, and the main power cable going to the starter is 2/0 nice and confusing
Last edited by hotairgypsy; 06-11-2012 at 11:22 AM. |
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Well i am no expert on this but know a little bit. that cable will probably work only becuase of the shear size. But really the best cable to get is the same TYPE as what's used with welding machines. the strands are much smaller, very tiny in fact and but A LOT more strands. This is for the Amps required. Cables with smaller but more strands supports more Amps
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Where are you located? You can go to your local Electrical Wholesale house like Consolidated Electrical Distributors and get some 1/0 DLO (diesel locomotive cable) this has the highest AMP rating per physical size possible. That would be your best bet for battery cables.
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battery cables
I've used welding cables, but instead of soldering i had lugs compressed on (~700bls of pressure).
I got mine from a place that sells welding/brazing equipment. Going to relocate my battery to the rear with the other and change the air intake to install a filter in place of the battery. |
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Just make sure you use the same size or larger. If you relocate anything, you will need larger wire for the distance. DC has a high rate of loss over a distance. Crimping is better than soldering for battery cables. There are temporary high loads that can heat up the wire and cause the joint to become loose over time, especially when it's under the hood. For my system, the batteries were relocated two under the passenger door and one in the cab, I upgraded to 4/0 and crimped everything with tinned lugs. The crimper I use is a hydraulic crimper that you pump like a bottle jack, with something like that you will get a good connection all the way around the lug. The cheep crimpers don't always get a good connection, some of the ones that use a hammer just pinch one spot and you will end up with a bad connection that will heat up and fail over time.
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