Front wheel bearing conversion q? - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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Old 06-11-2012, 07:44 AM
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Front wheel bearing conversion q?

I have an e99 250 7.3 auto 4x4 super cab long bed. I believe that my wheel bearing is starting to go bad on the front end. I'm strapped for cash atm, but found a donor truck for parts. It is a 01 or 02 f350 srw long bed reg cab 5.4 auto 4x4.

My question is what part are needed to make these hubs work on my truck. I recall that the e99 has a different offset, so I believe that I would need the hub units and bearings, and the brake rotors to match the offset. Is it as simple as old parts out, new parts in, or are there any other things that I would need to change?

I have had it all apart before to do my ball joints last year, so I wouldn't have a problem with that, I just want to be sure that I get everything I need, and that these specific parts will work for me.


Thanks
Brian
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Old 06-11-2012, 08:24 AM
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unit berring (wheel berring/hub assmby) and rotor are the parts that are diffrent... I posted some pictures of the diffrences a while back, about a year ago, when I converted my early '99 to the newer ones.

So, pull the rotors off, and the unit berring from the donor truck, and you're set. Just remember to buy the newer style parts in the future when you need new rotors. Might also want to have the rotors turned while you got them off...

Good luck!!!
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Old 06-11-2012, 09:12 AM
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Pads, caliper and all that good stuff will remain the same for future replacement? Ie like when I need to do brake pads?

Last edited by venturesomerite; 06-13-2012 at 08:48 AM.
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Old 06-11-2012, 12:18 PM
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pads and calipers are the same, the only diffrence is in the distance from the rotor surface to the wheel mounting surface, about 3/16 of an inch diffrence... some people have talked about spacing the caliper mounting bracket to make things work with the older style rotors, but I do not recomend that... the safety of yourself, your family, and others around you is riding on the brake components, good reason to do it right. The diffrence will be noticeable to the trained eye when you compair the lock out hub, it will sit just a further in or out of flush with the hub cap/trim center after things are swapped around.
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Old 06-12-2012, 10:07 AM
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quick question. what is the advantage of the newer style bearings and hub?
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Old 06-12-2012, 02:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by srob817 View Post
quick question. what is the advantage of the newer style bearings and hub?
Cheaper...
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Old 06-12-2012, 06:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by revolvingsteel View Post
Cheaper...
Bingo.


On another note, everything swapped over no problem. thanks guys.
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Old 06-13-2012, 08:22 AM
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I am assuming its cheaper when doing both sides at the same time?

I did one side last year and have the bearing sitting on the table for the drivers side right now. I can get parts at cost and paid $300 for each individual bearing. Or did I just cost myself more money
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Old 06-13-2012, 08:47 AM
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Locally I was quoted $196 for a new 99.5 unit, and $60 for a rotor.

Same place wants $340 for a e99 unit and $75 for a rotor.

I picked up both units and rotors for $200.

My big thing was I'm strapped for cash atm, and HAD to use the truck to pull a trailer.


I wanted to do both sides at once because it would bother me having one e99 and one 99.5, which is not to say it wouldn't work fine, because it would. I think it just makes things easier in the long run.
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Old 06-13-2012, 09:16 AM
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My reasoning was cheaper parts, and already having a newer style truck with lifetime warrenteed parts, and a 'good friend' at the parts store... funny how these things work out.
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