For all the readers that are tired of helping people diagnose Hard Cold Starting

[ckraker]

I may be the only person with a diesel truck that is having this problem.
I noticed that these forums are loaded with tips on how to fix hard cold starting issues. How about this for a change..... I have to crank my motor for an extended amount of time in order for it to start, but only when it is up to temp.

Cold starts are a breeze, without fail this motor starts when it has been sitting overnight.
It cranks over plenty fast, fuel pressure is good, glow plugs are working. When it is up to operating temp it has to crank for about 4-5 seconds before it will fire. It always starts, but that is just too long to crank.

Let me know what you all suspect.

I had a thought.... When the engine is up to temp my glow plugs don't turn on. Not even for a second (the light comes on but that is it) I checked with a voltmeter. Now I was told that the PCM decides whether or not to turn the plugs on based on engine oil temp. Is there something I can do to get the plugs to turn on even when the engine is warm? Even if it is just for 10 seconds of so? (NO Im not interested in wiring a switch into my dash). Or...... should I not need them to turn on at all? In which case I need you all to help me with some ideas about what could be the problem
Thanks

[jdman49]

I know on the 6.0 that the ICP sensor can cause that I'm not sure about the 7.3 but it might be worth looking into (if they have an ICP sensor)

[NoRalPh]

The Glow Plugs are not the answer, what it sounds like to me (although 4-5sec might be considered simply "inconvenient" by some...) is that as the engine oil heats-up and thins, you're losing the HiPres oils ability to drive the injectors for a bit.

Are you using a light weight synthetic oil?

Do you have some way of monitoring the HiPres oil system? A scanner that you, or somebody you know, that we can get those reading from? I think if you could watch the ICP pressure and IPR%, hot and cold, it would get you going in the right direction (even if, dare I say, you have to pay for that scan )

[ckraker]

I'm running rotella 15 40. I don't think you would consider that a thin oil, would you?

I only have the ability to monitor the actual pressure via a manual gauge. No way to watch %'s or icp readings, at least not for free. If it's not able to get the pressure up fast enough does that simply mean I need a new pump, or could it be a need for a new sensor or regulator? And if so which if the more probable?

[NoRalPh]

No, 15W-40 is thick oil

And ALL these parts are way too expensive to change with probability (go throw $350 into an AutoEnginuity first...) But, if it IS a problem with the HiPes system, it would be either the pump isn't producing what it should, it IS but that pressure is being bleed-off where it shouldn't, or a sensor isn't "seeing" it right. Only a good scanner is going to distinguish between them or point you in a different direction...

Seriously, over the Long-Haul, you should consider the AE. It'll save you money in the end. Right now, see what you can do about finding someone with the right equipment to monitor those sensors so you're not buying stuff you don't need.

btw: how's the oils condition? Is it maybe overdue for a change? Foaming oil, because it's old can do that too.

[ckraker]

Oil is almost new.

[ckraker]

I have a scan tool. I actually have two. Why is this auto enginuity thing so special? Does it perform buzz tests and such? Why can't i get these sensor monitors on my auto xray scanner? Or my torque pro app on my phone?

[CMCA swartzkrautheim]

torque and xray are childs play to an AE, with an $350 ae you can do more than a $2000 snap on you can set speedo corrections buzz tests watch all and every sensor available even abs its just a hands down win...

[NoRalPh]

Originally Posted by ckraker

I have a scan tool. I actually have two. Why is this auto enginuity thing so special? Does it perform buzz tests and such? Why can't i get these sensor monitors on my auto xray scanner? Or my torque pro app on my phone?

All those things do is Generic OBD-II (mostly engine only) codes which our trucks are Not (despite the connector) If you're into automotive repair, and it sounds like you Are with a couple of scanners already, it really is all the more reason to move-up to a professional tool that will do it ALL (not just drivetrain) You'll need the enhanced Ford package at least or if you're Really into it, consider the Domestic "Big 3" package for around $650.

[ckraker]

I'll start saving my pennies!
In the mean time.... has anyone else ever come across this issue. I don't think the oil is leaking anywhere because cold starts are awesome. (I already checked the infamous oring) I also unhooked the ICP Sensor and it still extended cranked so I think I can eliminate the sensor as a culprit as the PCM should then not be using that info.

let me know

thanks