Question about Exhaust on an 02 F250 7.3 - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 8 Old 05-03-2012, 05:30 PM Thread Starter
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Question about Exhaust on an 02 F250 7.3

Ok i am just now starting to check into upgrading my exhaust. I have never actually checked out my exhaust and how everthing connects so don't laugh, still pretty new to Diesels. After climbing under the truck it looks like the exhaust pipe connects to the turbo and also ends up connecting to both manifolds on both sides of the engine, does this sound right? Anyway what i am seeing on my truck is a piece of pipe ... roughly about 3 feet long and 3" in diameter (i measured that so it is for sure 3" dia.) comes off of the turbo and connects to the tailpipe at the region of the truck where the tranny connects to the engine that pipe is 3.5" dia. Looks to be bolted together right above the cross member of the frame supporting the tranny. Is that right? 3" dia coming off of the turbo connecting to a 3.5" dia tailpipe? AND if i were to change that out to 4" pipe would i change it to 4" all the way to the turbo? If someone could explain how it is SUPPOSE to connect I would appreciate it.... Mine may be correct i just dont know. Thanks in advance

2002 F250 Super Duty 7.3L XLT Crew Cab 2WD
6637 DIY Air Intake
ISSPRO Gauges on Tripple A-Pillar Pod
Fabtech 6" Suspension Lift
18"x9" XD Rockstars W/35"x12.5" Toyo Open Country
Amp Research Powered Steps
Replaced Batteries, Starter and Waterpump
Zerex EC-1 Coolant
Sprayed Herculiner to Front Grill and Bumper
------ Other Mods coming soon -------
Phoenix PHP 6 Position Chip
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SD66 Turbo
Larger Injectors - Either Stage1 160s or Hybrids
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post #2 of 8 Old 05-03-2012, 06:53 PM
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The small pipes connecting to the exhaust manifolds are your up-pipes. check around the fittings for soot; they are well known for leaking. Mainly on the top fittings.

Exhaust comes straight from the turbo. From the turbo down is the down pipe. Some trucks have cats between the down pipe and muffler. I think the 3' section of pipe your talking about is your muffler, usually just behind the tranny.

If you order a mbrp kit or similar; it will come with everything you need. Its a very easy swap/install. My MBRP came with a 4" down-pipe.

I honestly do not remember what my stock pipes looked like, but my down-pipe bolts right to the turbo and its not reduced or anything.

I would say it will take you no longer than 1 hr to remove your old system and install the new one.
I like my MBRP but it seems like those diamond exhaust systems are popular as well.

Depending on your plans, I honestly do not think you gain much with 4" exhaust over stock. The sound difference is awesome though. I would do other mods first if you have them in mind. Choice is yours.
If I did it all over again, I would not have most of my mods; just not worth it IMO.

03 F350 7.3L Auto CC LB Dually 410's (LS Rear)315's

PHP/Beans tuned, 250/100 FF inj's, BTS Tranny, Strictly Diesel complete fuel system w/RR & FB Delete, Pius LASB from Irate, Swamps hvhf IDM
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post #3 of 8 Old 05-03-2012, 07:08 PM
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Down pipe just bolts right to the turbo using your old V band clamp... no adapters needed.


Zach
2000/2006ish Ford F-250 Larryette 7.3 Powerstroke 4x4
5" Sewer Pipe Exhaust (video clip), DIY 6637 Intake, Wicked Wheel'd, De-foiled, Missing EBPV, Edge Juice with Attitude, Few leaves added here and there, 35" BFGs, 16x10 Eagle Alloys, Alpine W200

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post #4 of 8 Old 05-03-2012, 07:12 PM
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you mentioned you were new to diesel so I'll try and elaborate a little more on what INFRNL stated above. Sorry if it gets too simplified.

The exhaust gasses exit the piston after combustion through your up-pipes. These route the gas through the turbine side of your turbo spinning a shaft which also compresses air on the other side. The exhaust exits the turbo through the downpipe.

My MBRP system took me about 2 hours to install. Most of the time is spent getting the old system out. Took 30 minutes for putting the new one in. I love the sound and the low end power while pulling something though.

2000 f250 7.3 w/ 103k miles
4" MBRP turbo back exhaust
DIY Intake with AFE big boost filter
Autometer Cobalt gauges (trans, boost,pyro)
PHP Phoenix stock, 40ht,80dd,120race
Wicked Wheel
Harpoon Mod
203* thermostat
Dieselsite coolant filter
Dieselsite IC Boots

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post #5 of 8 Old 05-03-2012, 07:33 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for all the info guys.

Ok after reading your replies and other research. I realize now that the 3" pipe is the down pipe and INFRNL, there is no CAT, i was able to verify that. The muffler is much further back towards the rear of the truck just before the rear axle. The 3" downpipe does infact connect directly to a flange on the 3.5" exhaust pipe, then connects to muffler further back.

Jacobm24, thanks for the explanation that does clear up some confusion i had. BTW, when i was looking at this earlier i got a scare that maybe i drilled and tapped my EGT sensor in the wrong place... and still not 100% sure ... I drilled and tapped the Manifold side of the flange closest to my oil filter above the flange where it connects to the up pipe. is this correct?

Also, some say there is not much difference between 4" and stock other than sound. But i just lifted the truck and put 35" tire becuase of this i have noticed about a 15 to 20 degree increase in Trans temp and EGT temp is running higher as well, Would the 4" help in reducing the heat a little?

oh and one more question: is it normal stock setup to have a 3" downpipe connect directly to a 3.5" Exhaust pipe?

thanks again

2002 F250 Super Duty 7.3L XLT Crew Cab 2WD
6637 DIY Air Intake
ISSPRO Gauges on Tripple A-Pillar Pod
Fabtech 6" Suspension Lift
18"x9" XD Rockstars W/35"x12.5" Toyo Open Country
Amp Research Powered Steps
Replaced Batteries, Starter and Waterpump
Zerex EC-1 Coolant
Sprayed Herculiner to Front Grill and Bumper
------ Other Mods coming soon -------
Phoenix PHP 6 Position Chip
4" Exhaust System
SD66 Turbo
Larger Injectors - Either Stage1 160s or Hybrids
Hutch n' harpoon Mod

Last edited by tfifeco; 05-03-2012 at 08:01 PM. Reason: adding questions
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post #6 of 8 Old 05-03-2012, 10:23 PM
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supposedly the 4" should help egts a touch, but I do not have any physical facts on that; just what some people say.

your egt probe sounds like you have it in the right place. Most go on driverside exhaust manifold at the elbow of the manifold where it bolts to the DS up-pipe. this would be close to the oil filter area.

I do not recall what size down-pipe is stock. 3" might be right, but for some reason I was thinking 3.5". Although looking at the above pics, looks like its 3"

03 F350 7.3L Auto CC LB Dually 410's (LS Rear)315's

PHP/Beans tuned, 250/100 FF inj's, BTS Tranny, Strictly Diesel complete fuel system w/RR & FB Delete, Pius LASB from Irate, Swamps hvhf IDM
Autometer Nexus Guages (TT,FP,BP,EGT), 4"MBRP, DieselSite Coolant filtration system/billet housing/HP X-Over line, Baldwin PA2818(6637) RR Boots, 26 row 6.0 Tranny & PS Cooler, LarryB's Denso Starter
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post #7 of 8 Old 05-04-2012, 09:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tfifeco View Post

Jacobm24, thanks for the explanation that does clear up some confusion i had. BTW, when i was looking at this earlier i got a scare that maybe i drilled and tapped my EGT sensor in the wrong place... and still not 100% sure ... I drilled and tapped the Manifold side of the flange closest to my oil filter above the flange where it connects to the up pipe. is this correct?
That sounds right. Pretty good description of where I did mine. There's some pics on autometer's facebook page for an install on our trucks. That's what I followed to do mine

Quote:
Originally Posted by tfifeco View Post
Also, some say there is not much difference between 4" and stock other than sound. But i just lifted the truck and put 35" tire becuase of this i have noticed about a 15 to 20 degree increase in Trans temp and EGT temp is running higher as well, Would the 4" help in reducing the heat a little?
I have found the big difference is when pulling heavy sheit. I have much lower egts (50-100*) and the low end tourqe seems to be there. for instance I had trouble hauling 6 bales of hay over 60mph (when I say trouble I mean I like to take it easy on the truck). After the exhaust I got on the highway and was at 70 without even noticing or trying. Just a much better feel to it. That was stock also.

The sound is amazing too.

The exhaust probably wont help with the trans temp though. If youre having trouble with that get a 6.0 trans cooler.

2000 f250 7.3 w/ 103k miles
4" MBRP turbo back exhaust
DIY Intake with AFE big boost filter
Autometer Cobalt gauges (trans, boost,pyro)
PHP Phoenix stock, 40ht,80dd,120race
Wicked Wheel
Harpoon Mod
203* thermostat
Dieselsite coolant filter
Dieselsite IC Boots

Fightin' Texas Aggie Class of 2013!
Petroleum Engineering
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post #8 of 8 Old 05-04-2012, 11:35 AM Thread Starter
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Jacob, thanks that was the info I was looking for. I understand about the trans temp, already decided to change to the 6.0 trans cooler, just need to find one at a good price

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2002 F250 Super Duty 7.3L XLT Crew Cab 2WD
6637 DIY Air Intake
ISSPRO Gauges on Tripple A-Pillar Pod
Fabtech 6" Suspension Lift
18"x9" XD Rockstars W/35"x12.5" Toyo Open Country
Amp Research Powered Steps
Replaced Batteries, Starter and Waterpump
Zerex EC-1 Coolant
Sprayed Herculiner to Front Grill and Bumper
------ Other Mods coming soon -------
Phoenix PHP 6 Position Chip
4" Exhaust System
SD66 Turbo
Larger Injectors - Either Stage1 160s or Hybrids
Hutch n' harpoon Mod
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