Newbie question (Procomp 6 inch lift) - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum

 
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post #1 of 10 Old 05-03-2012, 05:09 PM Thread Starter
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Newbie question (Procomp 6 inch lift)

Well I finally decided to go with a 6 inch lift as opposed to a 4 inch lift. A buddy of mine is running a procomp lift so I started checking them out. On the site it asks me to filter by the rear block size. (2.5 inch factory vs 3.5 inch factory). Was having 3.5" blocks an option addition to the f250s or does this have something to do with the model or whether it's 4x4 vs 4x2?

Sorry if this is a completely newb question. I'm totally new to suspension lifting. I plan on going out tomorrow in the daylight and measuring but as of right now I'm just rather curious because your options with lifts from procomp are limited to 4 inch if you have the 2.5 inch block.
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post #2 of 10 Old 05-03-2012, 05:18 PM
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The 2.5" blocks were offered in the F250s, while the 3.5" blocks came on the F350s.

2002 F250 CCSB Lariat 4x4 202k
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post #3 of 10 Old 05-03-2012, 05:24 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks! That clears it up. This 6 inch kit I'm looking at requires the 3.5 inch factory rear block. Why would that be if I'm just going to replace it with the rear block in this kit?

Zach
2000 Ford F2250 XLT Extended Cab, Short Bed 4x4
229k miles

6637 mod
4 inch turbo back
edge cts insight on the way!

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post #4 of 10 Old 05-03-2012, 05:27 PM
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I would assume because they only make one size of replacement block, and if you have the 2.5" block, there's wouldn't level the back completely? That's what I would think, but I'm not entirely sure.

2002 F250 CCSB Lariat 4x4 202k
-6637
-Autometer Boost, Pyro, and Trans
-3.5" DP w/ 4" MBRP
-PHP Phoenix
-Amsoil in EVERYTHING
-B&W Turnover
-ARE camper shell
-Detroit TrueTrac rear
-RI Dually's/Plashlights 20"
-Custom front plate bumper
-ProComp 22210, F350 blocks
-315/75/16 Goodyear Duratracs w/ 16x10 8-hole classics
-Bilstein 5100s
-Viper alarm w/Remote Start
-Sony Xplod headunit
-Infinity Kappa 6x8s
-Kicker CVT 12"
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post #5 of 10 Old 05-03-2012, 06:02 PM Thread Starter
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Makes sense. Thanks man! Anyone have any idea how I could make that work since I'm just running the 2.5" blocks? I feel like there's f250s rolling around with 6" procomp lifts so there's gotta be a way haha.

Zach
2000 Ford F2250 XLT Extended Cab, Short Bed 4x4
229k miles

6637 mod
4 inch turbo back
edge cts insight on the way!

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post #6 of 10 Old 05-03-2012, 06:15 PM
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Zak, i just completed a Fabtech 6" lift. But i have a 2WD so the front end lift is totally different than on 4WD's. But from what i have learned doing mine the amount of lift ... 6" in this case is measured by how much you lift the front suspension. The front is lower than the rear as you know. A 6" lift will lift the front 6" and the rear 4" or 3.5" depending on your preference so that it is levelled when done. Not sure about the front end parts on a 4WD but on my 2WD i went with 4" block on the rear ... That levelled up my truck. Most likely You will replace the stock block with the correct size you need for the lift you purchase to keep it level - but you should confirm that with Procomp. BTW, i went with a Fabtech lift but a 4" Procomp block for the rear. Hope this helps

2002 F250 Super Duty 7.3L XLT Crew Cab 2WD
6637 DIY Air Intake
ISSPRO Gauges on Tripple A-Pillar Pod
Fabtech 6" Suspension Lift
18"x9" XD Rockstars W/35"x12.5" Toyo Open Country
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Replaced Batteries, Starter and Waterpump
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------ Other Mods coming soon -------
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post #7 of 10 Old 05-03-2012, 06:42 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tfifeco View Post
Zak, i just completed a Fabtech 6" lift. But i have a 2WD so the front end lift is totally different than on 4WD's. But from what i have learned doing mine the amount of lift ... 6" in this case is measured by how much you lift the front suspension. The front is lower than the rear as you know. A 6" lift will lift the front 6" and the rear 4" or 3.5" depending on your preference so that it is levelled when done. Not sure about the front end parts on a 4WD but on my 2WD i went with 4" block on the rear ... That levelled up my truck. Most likely You will replace the stock block with the correct size you need for the lift you purchase to keep it level - but you should confirm that with Procomp. BTW, i went with a Fabtech lift but a 4" Procomp block for the rear. Hope this helps
So in essence I could purchase my kit and then buy a block separately that will level the back end to the appropriate height? Thanks for the response btw. That really cleared things up

Zach
2000 Ford F2250 XLT Extended Cab, Short Bed 4x4
229k miles

6637 mod
4 inch turbo back
edge cts insight on the way!

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post #8 of 10 Old 05-03-2012, 07:11 PM
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Yes, i purchased mine from 4WheelParts. they worked with me to figure out exactly what parts i needed based on what i wanted. And becuase i was going to install mine myself with help from my brother in his shop, which was 4 hours away drive time i needed to make absolutely sure i had EVERYTHING i needed to get the job done right. So I bought two size blocks 3" and 4" so that i could use the one that worked the best. Most trucks will have some rear suspension fatigue in the leaf springs, over the years. Meaning they could sag a little and therefore it is hard to get it EXACTLY level. So you could end up with only a 2" different between the front and rear rather than a 2.5" or 3". My preference was that i did not want the rear lower than the front, So i made sure i had 2 size blocks. They let me return the one i didnt use. my recomendation is to research as much as you can before you buy. Decide exactly what you want then find a store or shop that will work with you to figure out what parts you need based on what you want. I say that becuase i was going to order all the parts online directly from Fabtech, But i checked with 4WheelParts and found out that i could buy from them cheaper than i could direclty from Fabtech Plus... because they do this all the time they gave me valuable information that i didnt know and wouldnt have known had i not called them. Just research... There is a lot of room for error

2002 F250 Super Duty 7.3L XLT Crew Cab 2WD
6637 DIY Air Intake
ISSPRO Gauges on Tripple A-Pillar Pod
Fabtech 6" Suspension Lift
18"x9" XD Rockstars W/35"x12.5" Toyo Open Country
Amp Research Powered Steps
Replaced Batteries, Starter and Waterpump
Zerex EC-1 Coolant
Sprayed Herculiner to Front Grill and Bumper
------ Other Mods coming soon -------
Phoenix PHP 6 Position Chip
4" Exhaust System
SD66 Turbo
Larger Injectors - Either Stage1 160s or Hybrids
Hutch n' harpoon Mod
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post #9 of 10 Old 05-06-2012, 08:34 AM
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Get rid of blocks, they are nothing but trouble when u lift ur truck with big tires and lots of torque. I have cracked and bent springs and so have my buddy's because of blocks. I would recommend doing a all spring lift. Or if u do the blocks make sure u add traction bars.


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post #10 of 10 Old 05-06-2012, 12:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madmanwelder View Post
Get rid of blocks, they are nothing but trouble when u lift ur truck with big tires and lots of torque. I have cracked and bent springs and so have my buddy's because of blocks. I would recommend doing a all spring lift. Or if u do the blocks make sure u add traction bars.


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To start with, I have NO experiance lifting superdutys... but have lifted meny old chevys, and the rear leafs are simular enough. I agree with the all-spring lift, the only down fall is losing any overload springs you might have on your superduty, and not the case with the old chevys I've worked on... using blocks would alow you to keep the overloads, and the load handling ability of the rear springs, and the traction bars will keep the addtional levrage due to the lift blocks in check... so it comes down to what you use your truck for... if you tow or haul heavy loads, and have overloads, keep them, and use the blocks, and add traction bars. If it's light loads, go with the full rear replacement springs, you'll likely get a better than stock ride from the rear, and reduce the need for traction bars.

Greg

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'00 F350 extcab, 9' utility bed, dually 221k

E'99 F250 extcab, S/Bed 211k

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