Best option with buying new manual hubs?

[blue89turbo]

Hey guys,

I just bought my 01 PSD and just realized that the front hubs were locked in.
I made sure that the tranfer case motor was working and then I pulled the hubs and now the front end freewheels.

I don't think it is worth regreasing them and reusing them.

I think that I would like to just buy some new manual locking hubs.

What is the best, cheapest option?
I was looking at the superwinch #400439 hubs from Jegs. Are these decent?
Does the 01 PSD have the Dana 60 with 30 Splines?

I am still kind of a newbie on 4x4 but if i swap out to manual hubs then the only difference is that I would need to jump out and manually engage them right?

Do I need to cap off the vacuum lines?

Thanks for the help

[primetime1267]

Check out the milemarker 496ss from summitracing. I picked up a set last month on sale for 90.00

[blue89turbo]

Thanks,

I assume that you meant 449SS?

Do you know if these are a direct bolt on or if there is a conversion kit needed?

Thanks again

[JSchuricht]

Originally Posted by blue89turbo

Does the 01 PSD have the Dana 60 with 30 Splines?
Thanks for the help

Yes, but if you put in 35 spline outters in you could use Dynatrac lockouts. Best and cheapest don't quite go together.

[Bleedin Blue]

To answer your other questions,
Yes you need to cap the vacuum lines.
Yes you will have to get out and lock in.

I put WARN premium hubs on my truck. It's a little more dough but, well worth it.

Sent from my C771 using AutoGuide.Com Free App

[dieselcrawler]

I have had issues with the Warn standard replacement hubs, snap rings on the back have popped off, not letting them lock in... not too happy with them, plan to try milemarker or superwinch next time.

['01SilverBullet]

I might be interested in a set of manual lockouts as well, sometime down the road. Just one question, would I be smart to also upgrade to rebuildable wheel bearings? Asking b/c spending 200 on a unit bearing sucked...and it wasn't even made here...

[stickk]

'01SB,

Free Spin Kits: You really have to put pencil to paper to determine if it is worth it for you. These kits are roughly $ 2k. OEM type replacement hubs are roughly 250 ea so 500 each time to replace both ends of the axle. In my experience on my trucks, I have seen say an avg of 100k miles on the hub/bearing assembly. So not taking into consideration the labor each time that would be 400k miles to equal dollar to dollar. I drive approx 30k a year, with just my truck loaded w tools and a trailer from time to time. That's 13 yrs of driving. For me, I'll spread the cost over those yrs rather than a one time hit.

I just did ball joints on my '01 f350 ccsb 4wd and it was a bear. 9 hrs on the first side and 4.5 hrs on the second. The hub assemblies came off easy and I think I could replace one in a cpl of hrs.

The Dodge guys rave about these kits because their whole front end spins all the time, so maybe more wear on the bearing? IDK, just a guess. I had an '06 CTD mega cab and had the hubs replaced at 77k, then sold the truck w 180k and hub units were still good.

Just some thoughts, I am not a mechanic. Just can't justify the cost of the free spin kit for me. Good luck.

[cowens726]

Originally Posted by dieselcrawler

I have had issues with the Warn standard replacement hubs, snap rings on the back have popped off, not letting them lock in... not too happy with them, plan to try milemarker or superwinch next time.

Ditto, I'm not sure what happened to Warn in the last 10 years or so but I don't think I would pay the extra price for their parts anymore. When I bought my truck it came with Warn premiums and haven't I had problems yet. Since I have a hand shaker it's kinda nice to be able to leave the hubs unlocked put the t-case in low and back my trailer into my driveway or anywhere else backing up hill...a lot less clutch slipping.

[Highbeam]

Low range 2wd is nice for us auto guys too. More power for slow going without slipping the TC and getting it hot.

I put in the mile marker stainless hubs from summit racing as well. Great investment and the hubs have been perfect. No reason at all to spend more money for Warns.

You will need to block off the vacuum lines. I also unplugged the solenoid on the pside fender that sends vacuum to the hubs when you select 4wd.

The factory autohubs suck. Mine were staying locked in even when in the "auto" setting. Also, the face got very stiff so turning them to lock required tools. Not so with the MM hubs.

It appears that the only reason to spend 2000$ for the free spin kit is to be rid of the unit bearing assemblies. Our factory hub system is already a free spin hub. There appears to be no difference in function by wasting money on the dynatrac kit. You can buy unit bearing assemblies with one year warranty for under 150$ at autozone and they are very easy to replace but unless you use monster tires, you should get many many years out of the hubs. I just can't see why anybody would abandon the spindle system on the fords. The hub situation needs upgrading though.