AC Compressor cycling???? - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 25 Old 04-25-2012, 03:43 PM Thread Starter
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AC Compressor cycling????

Ok guys, i have an '02 250 7.3L the AC works and blows cold air but seems to be cutting out beyond the normal cycle that these units do. Here's what's happening. when driving and the AC is on at a certain point whether cruising or sitting idle the compressor clutch will disengage, will start blowing warm, then hot air but will never re-engage on its own. If i get on the gas and cause the transmission to downshift (whether it's out of overdriver, or anyother gear) MOST of the time but ... not all of the time ... the compressor clutch will re-engage and start blowing cold air again. Even if i turn off the AC then turn it back on this will not cause the compressor to re-engage again. IF i stop shut off the engine, turn off the ac controls then restart, it will re-engage and blow cold air again. But if i am driving either in town in stop and go traffic or on the highway and the compressor clutch disengages, it will never re-engage on its own.

This has been ongoing for about a year now. I have put gauges on the system multiple times and had others put gauges on and the system shows to be properly charged so there is not leak. I have changes the Low Pressure switch located on the Filter dryer.

i have not changed the high pressure switch yet mainly becuase of the price of the switch and logic tells me it's probably not the high pressure switch - because it re-engages after i get on the gas (essentially increasing the pressure)

But i am not sure and don't really know a whole lot about AC systems. Any ideas on what might be causing this? The only thing i can think of is either the High pressure switch, low pressure switch(already changed) and the Clutch itself.

thanks and i would appreciate anyone's thoughts to this

2002 F250 Super Duty 7.3L XLT Crew Cab 2WD
6637 DIY Air Intake
ISSPRO Gauges on Tripple A-Pillar Pod
Fabtech 6" Suspension Lift
18"x9" XD Rockstars W/35"x12.5" Toyo Open Country
Amp Research Powered Steps
Replaced Batteries, Starter and Waterpump
Zerex EC-1 Coolant
Sprayed Herculiner to Front Grill and Bumper
------ Other Mods coming soon -------
Phoenix PHP 6 Position Chip
4" Exhaust System
SD66 Turbo
Larger Injectors - Either Stage1 160s or Hybrids
Hutch n' harpoon Mod
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post #2 of 25 Old 04-25-2012, 05:36 PM
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I'd suspect the clutch spacing needs to be adjusted, and the clutch won't lock up properly. You should be able to disconnect the power wire going to the clutch and rig up a jumper wire to the battery to see if the vehicle electrical system is at fault, or if the clutch itself is the problem.
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post #3 of 25 Old 04-25-2012, 05:47 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks tty, i tried a similar test with the low pressure switch ... Everytime i disconnected/Reconnected the switch the clutch would disengage/re-engage properly. Like when i am testing these things everything seems to work as it is supposed to ... But when i get to driving down the road ... It will just drop out.... it does it whether its hot or colder outside, however seems to do it more frequently the hotter it gets outside, don't know if that's just a coincidence or not

2002 F250 Super Duty 7.3L XLT Crew Cab 2WD
6637 DIY Air Intake
ISSPRO Gauges on Tripple A-Pillar Pod
Fabtech 6" Suspension Lift
18"x9" XD Rockstars W/35"x12.5" Toyo Open Country
Amp Research Powered Steps
Replaced Batteries, Starter and Waterpump
Zerex EC-1 Coolant
Sprayed Herculiner to Front Grill and Bumper
------ Other Mods coming soon -------
Phoenix PHP 6 Position Chip
4" Exhaust System
SD66 Turbo
Larger Injectors - Either Stage1 160s or Hybrids
Hutch n' harpoon Mod
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post #4 of 25 Old 08-04-2012, 09:21 AM
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Im having the exact same issue. I have not replaced anything yet. Its frustrating when is 107 outside and your Ice cold AC just drops out. Mine seems to take about 20 min of driving before it quits on me.
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post #5 of 25 Old 08-04-2012, 09:57 AM
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Mine was doing the same thing about 3 months ago and i pulled the clutch of and removed the washer/ spacer and my problem was fixed. It takes about 3 minutes to do this.

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post #6 of 25 Old 08-05-2012, 01:28 PM
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http://springerpop.net/F350/air_gap.html



I've done it on 2 trucks and now both work great.

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Cody Ryan
03 f250 ccsb fx4 7.3
4" RC lift
35x12.50 federals on 20x12 rockstars
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full RR w/ fuel bowl delete.
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post #7 of 25 Old 08-05-2012, 08:42 PM
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Originally Posted by codyryan07 View Post
SpringerPop's Compressor Clutch Air Gap



I've done it on 2 trucks and now both work great.

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What is the part called? And do you have to recharge the system and pull vacume ect. or is it just simply replace the rings?
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post #8 of 25 Old 08-06-2012, 04:39 AM
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Its on your a/c clutch. You don't mess with any of the charged system. Your basically just pulling the front plate off, pulling out a small washer, the bolting it back together. Super simple.

Shouldn't take longer than 5 minutes. And that's with a beer break

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Cody Ryan
03 f250 ccsb fx4 7.3
4" RC lift
35x12.50 federals on 20x12 rockstars
6637 intake, straight pipe
full RR w/ fuel bowl delete.
rebuild coming soon


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post #9 of 25 Old 08-06-2012, 07:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by codyryan07 View Post
Its on your a/c clutch. You don't mess with any of the charged system. Your basically just pulling the front plate off, pulling out a small washer, the bolting it back together. Super simple.

Shouldn't take longer than 5 minutes. And that's with a beer break

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Thanks alot! Ill let you know how it goes!
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post #10 of 25 Old 08-06-2012, 07:18 AM
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Wait do you have to buy new shims or just take thd one out?
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