Compression Ignition Addict
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Dorcheat Bayou, Louisiana
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
a couple of things I would check.....
1. Make sure the Red/Lt green wire on the brake pedal position sensor has 12 volts when the brake pedal is pushed in.
2. Looking at the wiring schematics, its hard to tell about the brake pressure switch ( on the master cylinder). But what I think is that the Red wire needs 12 volts in run and start. The Black/Yellow wire is the "out" wire from the switch. I think it will have 12 volts until there is brake pressure. and then go to zero. However, it could be that it only gets 12 volts when it has pressure on it. Regardless, the BK/YE wire should change when you push the brakes in.
Also after mine had the recall done it has several fuses in that new harness. Check all of those.
3. Make sure the Triple Function Jumper is plugged into the Clutch Pedal Possition Switch plug. The harness and plug is tucked up under the dash above where you would have a clutch pedal. You should have the jumper, which looks like a simple dust cover for the plug, plugged into the harness where it dead ends. (this is a long shot unless you think the previous owner liked screwing with stuff)
4. Make sure your overdrive off button on the shifter works as it should. As in it turns off overdrive when you are going down the road.
5. Check all of your fuses. You can do this with a small flashlight in the dark with the fuses in place. Tilt your head just right and you can see through the fuse.
If all of that checks out, my personal opinion would be the Clock Spring. I believe that thing could break one wire, screw up your cruise but allow everything else to work. I had to replace mine awhile back, but my horn wasn't working either.
On Edit: I would go ahead and replace the brake pressure switch if Ford didn't do it. Its only a matter of time before the POS starts leaking if it already hasn't. Its nothing to it, just unscrew the old and screw in the new. Just dont push the brakes when you have the old out and you don't even have to bleed them.
2002 F-250 CCSB
Manual T-Case Swap
K&N Intake, CCV Dumped, Riff Raff Boots
Foil Delete, AIH Delete, EBPV Delete
Farm Boy's 5" Straight Pipe with 6" tip
PHP's Tunes with 6 pos
Hutched 51 gal Titan Tank
Iron Bull Bumper with PIAA 510's and Strobes
Warn M12000, Retrosolutions LED's inside and out
2011 Tailgate -Taillights - Front Ford Emblem
17" Fuel Octanes with ProComp Extreme AT 35's
Last edited by Freedombyforce; 03-07-2012 at 06:52 PM.