DIY EBPV for exh brake??? - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
 
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post #1 of 6 Old 03-06-2012, 05:53 PM Thread Starter
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DIY EBPV for exh brake???

read several older posts and how to's

but not many posters seem to have updated their threads with how it worked out...


good, bad, ugly, what would you do different???


im considering doing it to my 00 F250 automatic.



thanks in advance.

Norm

2000 F250 Auto CC SB
265,000
Airaid intake, MBRP 4" exhaust, Edge tuner canned tunes, Airbags, 6.0 Trans Cooler, OBA, Horns

Last edited by ShelbyGuy; 03-06-2012 at 06:31 PM.
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post #2 of 6 Old 03-06-2012, 09:30 PM
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Well, i have done a mod that didnt follow exactly what has been posted. I can't really comment on how well it works because i haven't pulled anything with my truck since doing the mod.

It does work though! Just don't know how effective.
i wired my so it would function as an engine brake, function as ford intended, or just be shut off.

Lee


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post #3 of 6 Old 03-07-2012, 06:59 PM Thread Starter
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gotta be more than just 1

Norm

2000 F250 Auto CC SB
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post #4 of 6 Old 03-07-2012, 07:01 PM
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If you do it on an auto, you need to do the TC lockup too. Otherwise once the TC unlocks, the EBPV will be useless.
I'm interested too though, mainly for updates. Because the main concern I kept hearing was excessive drive pressures and valve floating.


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post #5 of 6 Old 03-07-2012, 07:12 PM
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From PHP's website:
Quote:
Do you offer a "decel" or "exhaust brake" calibration?

Simply put, no, we don't because it goes against our business philosophy which, in part, is to provide safe, reliable products to our customers.

For those who don't know, this is a calibration that uses the EBV (Exhaust Backpressure Valve) as a makeshift exhaust brake. While this setup may work reasonably well for lightly loaded vehicles, we generally do not recommend this type of calibration... at least not for automatic transmission vehicles. There are a few reasons we don't recommend this.

First, in order to transfer the energy of the moving vehicle to the engine during deceleration, two things must occur: the torque converter must remain locked, and the coast clutch must be engaged. The problem with this is that the coast clutch on a stock transmission only has 3 friction plates, and these are smaller than the standard forward clutches. On 2001 and later transmissions, you also run the possibility of damaging the intermediate sprag or "diode," which will result in an immediate transmission teardown. Again, lightly loaded vehicles would have less of a problem with this, but the general idea of an exhaust brake is to be able to slow larger loads without overheating the standard brake system. It is these types of loads that can cause transmission damage. Obviously, a manual transmission would be free from these types of situations.

Second, whenever you increase exhaust backpressure, you need to make sure that the exhaust valve springs are capable of preventing the pressure in the exhaust system from lifting the exhaust valve from the valve seat, as this would result in a collision with the piston. Normal valve spring seat pressure is 70-75 PSI for NEW valve springs and deteriorates from there. Given that the surface area of the back of the exhaust valve is approximately 1.9 square inches, it would take only 40 PSI of exhaust pressure to lift the valve off the seat, even with new valve springs.

To put it simply, if you plan to use an exhaust brake, either through the use of the EBV or by purchasing an aftermarket stand alone unit, you will need to consider the condition of your transmission and exhaust valve springs in order to ensure safe, reliable operation.

Zach
2000/2006ish Ford F-250 Larryette 7.3 Powerstroke 4x4
5" Sewer Pipe Exhaust
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post #6 of 6 Old 03-10-2012, 07:39 AM Thread Starter
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Norm

2000 F250 Auto CC SB
265,000
Airaid intake, MBRP 4" exhaust, Edge tuner canned tunes, Airbags, 6.0 Trans Cooler, OBA, Horns
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