Help pinpoint oil leak. Pics included

[belz]

I took some time today and cleaned up as much as I could without using 5 gallons of parts cleaner which I probably need, lol. Here are some pics I took. I think I need to rebuild the oil cooler and I think the HPOP is leaking. As for the rear leak I have no clue. Just did the pedestal orings and that was clean.

Here is before. There was a drop of oil where I put the box

Here is after I "cleaned"





Passenger side of oil pan

Near starter


HPOP

[ToddOH43]

When you figure it out, let me know.

I've got LOTS of oil in all the same places.

[belz]

Apparently a lot of ppl do and no one can figure it out. After looking at my pictures, I really need a LOT of parts cleaner.

[ToddOH43]

I've given up on trying to clean all the crud.

I know I had the o-rings in the HPOP lines replaced two months ago, and there doesnt seem to be any oil directly around them.

There is, however, about half a gallon in the valley, and at least another quart has run down the left side and and rear of the motor.

My 70 MPH 12 mile drive to work this morning did a fine job of spreading all of that along the entire underside of the truck making finding the source of the leak virtually impossible.

Oh well...I'll figure it out sooner or later.

[Codum]

I would replace the hpop gasket, ipr o ring kit, high pressure oil line o rings, replace the oil rail plugs, and the turbo oil line o rings. That should fix it, approx $150 in parts, you do the labor, allow one full day to do it. I have been chasing little leaks for six months, wish I would have done all this at one time.

[Codum]

I forgot the oil cooler o rings, I had to do those also, another two hours and $50.

[ToddOH43]

Originally Posted by Codum

I would replace the hpop gasket, ipr o ring kit, high pressure oil line o rings, replace the oil rail plugs, and the turbo oil line o rings. That should fix it, approx $150 in parts, you do the labor, allow one full day to do it. I have been chasing little leaks for six months, wish I would have done all this at one time.

Originally Posted by Codum

I forgot the oil cooler o rings, I had to do those also, another two hours and $50.

That's probably pretty sound advice, although I was hoping for the "quick fix" as opposed to losing another whole day crawling around the top of my motor. I'll probably forego the HPOP line o-rings though since they've recently been done.

[kep5niner]

I recently procured an '01 F250, and, while it was is pretty good shape for its age, I do not accept any form of leaking. So I've been on the same quest the OP is pursuing, with good results. I had leaks in all of the typical areas pictured above, so I started here: Replacement O-rings for Ford Diesel Engines

Bob at Diesel O-rings is a great help. The instructions are top-notch.

Here's another link to get you headed in the right direction: 99-03 7.3 oil leak diagnosis

All of the oil down the passenger side, onto my starter, ended up coming from the oil filler neck o-ring, or lack thereof. Easy fix.

Rebuilding the fuel bowl wasn't too bad, and I also did the IPR o-rings and installed a "serviceable" plug on the bottom of the HPOP. In the kit in the above link, I opted for the new HPOP gasket and HPOP oil line tool as well.

While I was in there and had everything apart, I degreased the valley, to the point of finishing up with brake cleaner.

I also installed NC Hornet's CCV mod, new Riff Raff boots, and plenum boots with inserts, to ensure I was not getting any leaking from the IC pipes / boots.

Another leak was at the dip-stick tube flange at the oil pan. Unfortunately, Bob's $45 kit didn't do the trick (kit was fine, pan was warped), so I ended up having to swap out the oil pan. I did go back together with a new powder-coated oil pan in order to prevent subsequent corrosion these pans are prone for in the rust belt. Oil leak is fixed too...

Just stay at it, and sequentially eliminate all areas of potential leaks. You'll be satisfied, and your truck will be too. Good luck!

[belz]

Which are the oil rail plugs and where do I get those besides the dealer? Ate they the big plugs on the backside of the motor? I will just save up and do the cooler rebuild and hpop stuff. Then go from there. It can't hurt to do it all.

[Codum]

If you just did the oil line o rings then yes, forgo them. Yes the oil rail plugs are the plug on the back side of the heads at the firewall ($8 each at dealer). You said you did the turbo oil line also, so 1/2 day and $150 bucks and you should not be leaking anymore.