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  #1  
Old 01-27-2012, 04:15 PM
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Block Swap Help! Instruction(s) NEEDED!

The (mod) madness:

Eventually, I want an engine built in the 400-500hp range, and with PMR's.... that's not gonna happen. I can't NOT have my truck in the winter, as I plow with it and need to get to work when the weather is crappy. I wish I did MORE research when I bought the truck. Found a low mileage 7.3.... but didn't know about Forged vs. PMR's till after.

The Plan:

Find a forged block, and basically put a new oil pan on it, (I need a new pan, anyway, and planned to pull then engine myself to do it.) And then essentially swap everything on the top-end of my engine over to the forged block, clean/paint it, and re-install.

I wish it was THAT simple. :lame:

The Catch:

I have NO experience. None. Biggest engine I pulled/built was a 8hp Briggs off a 1960something Sears/Roebuck Tiller. And that was over 10 years ago in high school.

So:

I need help. I have found basic threads on how to pull an engine. I need details; Step by steps. (Pics ALWAYS appreciated.) Not just in pulling the engine, but the whole process, what needs to be done to the engine, etc.

The current questions:

Do I need to remove injector cups to pull heads and swap them? (I'd need the cup-tools and new cups/sealant.) (I plan on new injector o-rings until I can get new injectors as mine are 10 years old and probably swollen.)

What years can I work with? (Blocks from 94.5-00, or just 99-00?) How much (can) get swapped over?

Any year blocks that won't work?

I'm eyeing a block out of a rolled '97 with 136k on the clock. It's a complete short block, guy says it's in great shape, wants $350 for it and it's about 150 miles from home. Only catch is I would need a cherry picker to get it out of the back of my pickup!

Current "To Do's" when out:

Melling LPOP.
Water Pump. (OEM Ford)
Head Studs.
Head Gaskets.
Ceramic Headers.
NEW Oil Pan. (OEM Ford)


Take it easy on me.... Like I said I'm a noob. And before you say "go to a shop" if I could afford it.... I still wouldn't. Won't learn anything that way. I like to learn, love to wrench, just need some teachin!

And free beer to anyone in the area who would want to help! I hope to have it done by the end of the summer, hopefully I wil have a block by the end of next month!

Thanks to all in advance... especially if you just read the whole thing.

Last edited by ToMang07; 01-27-2012 at 04:54 PM.
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Old 01-28-2012, 08:51 AM
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Bumping this up...

I can get a 1 ton Cherry Picker and a 2000# Engine Stand delivered to my house for $370 from Harbor Freight...

With the exception of an oil pan, manifolds and head studs... this seems to be a relatively cheap mod... cheaper than buying a long block.

I understand from talking to folks that the fuel pump hole in the OBS block needs to be plugged... not a big deal, right? The rest of the fuel stuff switches over, right?

As far as the top end stuff, Would I need an OBS compatible turbo/pedestal combo, or is there a way to use my pedestal/turbo from the SD block?

My SD manifolds/up-pipes should work fine, correct?
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Old 01-28-2012, 12:48 PM
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Out of sheer, morbid curiosity, anyone know how much a full short-block weighs?

(I know the long-block is around 1,000lbs)
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Old 01-29-2012, 12:38 PM
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He's making a list...checking it twice....


NEEDED New Parts/Gaskets:
RTV Silicone Sealant. (F5TZ-19G204-AB)
New Head Gaskets.
*New Front Cover Gaskets needed???
*New Engine Mounts Needed???
*New HPOP Gasket Needed???
*New Oil Cooler Block Gaskets Needed??? (Recently Replaced)
New OEM Oil Pan.
New OEM Water Pump.
New Injector O-Rings
New OEM Glow Plugs.

Tools:
2-Ton Cherry Picker.
2k lb Engine stand.
Damper Remover/Replacer (Links to which one works? @Harbor Freight)
HPOP Line Disconnect tool
*Head lifting Tool. (Needed???)
*Injector Removal Tool. (Needed???)
*Injector Install Tool. (Needed???)
Oil Suction Tool.

Also, for installing the cylinder heads, the directions (vaugely) say "Using the special tools, install the cylinder head." WTF are they referring to???? (Page 26 on the above linked assembly instructions.) Is that just the lift bracket???

Am I missing anything? Comments/suggestions are VERY welcomed!
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Old 01-29-2012, 09:26 PM
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Crickets chirping up a storm in this forum....wow. Got better info on a forum with under 100 members...that's messed up!

Anywho...


So after talking to a fellow member... I have an entirely new idea that I had not thought of:


Since I have to take the heads and oil pan off anyway...


Why not remove the rods bolts from the bottom of the block... And remove the pistons/rods through the top. Switch out the rods (and maybe pistons) and viola, I can keep my block, most of the parts on it, and save myself a lot of time/work without touching the crank!


Original engine....holy ****... didn't even know that was possible....but it make SOOO much more sense!


So... yeah... I think I have a (surprise surprise) new plan! Thoughts/input???
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Old 01-29-2012, 09:37 PM
spool up that turbo!!


 

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A new block saves down time but it'd probably be the same with a short block as swapping out your rods and engine removal is pretty straight forward I pulled the grill bumper air to air and radiator removed exhaust then Turbo I undid all the AC stuff and was able the flop everything over the fender and bunge it out of the way then labeled my wiring harness plugs and laid it over the fender I believe with an auto you can leave the tranny in the truck I pulled my zf cause it didn't want to let go you can leave the up pipes on undo the motor mounts and drag er out
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Old 01-29-2012, 11:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hollister25073 View Post
A new block saves down time but it'd probably be the same with a short block as swapping out your rods and engine removal is pretty straight forward I pulled the grill bumper air to air and radiator removed exhaust then Turbo I undid all the AC stuff and was able the flop everything over the fender and bunge it out of the way then labeled my wiring harness plugs and laid it over the fender I believe with an auto you can leave the tranny in the truck I pulled my zf cause it didn't want to let go you can leave the up pipes on undo the motor mounts and drag er out
Thanks for the response, man! Did you have to do anything funky with the A/C system when you put it back on?
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Old 01-29-2012, 11:39 PM
spool up that turbo!!


 

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Not from what I can remember but it is possible to remove the engine with out cracking the ac open


Sent from my Autoguide iPhone app
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Old 01-30-2012, 10:28 AM
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I was gonna chime in about the rods also. No need to replace the block.

You will however want to inspect the cyl bores once the heads are removed. If there is a ridge then you should consider getting the block bored and buying oversized pistons.

Engine removal is straight forward like said. Leave the a/c compressor attached to the lines and just leave in the truck. Put a jack or something under the trans to support it when you pull the engine.

Never had a 7.3 apart so i dont know about special tools to remove the head. I didnt think there was any. Well maybe that cherry picker so you dont blow your back out! Lol

Also if you are tore down that far you should think about new rod and main bearings!! This means removing the crank but it should be the only thing left in the block! Haha
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Old 01-30-2012, 11:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turbostang500 View Post
I was gonna chime in about the rods also. No need to replace the block.

You will however want to inspect the cyl bores once the heads are removed. If there is a ridge then you should consider getting the block bored and buying oversized pistons.

Engine removal is straight forward like said. Leave the a/c compressor attached to the lines and just leave in the truck. Put a jack or something under the trans to support it when you pull the engine.

Never had a 7.3 apart so i dont know about special tools to remove the head. I didnt think there was any. Well maybe that cherry picker so you dont blow your back out! Lol

Also if you are tore down that far you should think about new rod and main bearings!! This means removing the crank but it should be the only thing left in the block! Haha
I did some more research, and the "head tool" is just a lift bracket you attach to the head. Somebody needs to re-name that, lol!

At this point, I'm thinking I'll keep my original pistons, (unless I find a problem, but it only has 103k on the clock) MAYBE re-ring them with new rings, and jut put in the forged rods.

I'm looking into having the rods checked out and magnafluxed.

I don't have the machine skills to take the block down all the way, nor any shops around that I either know of or trust to do it for me. (I know of 1 diesel shop, but they told me it would cost 4 hours labor to install an exhaust at $6-700 in labor-install cost.
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