Trans flush or not to flush? - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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Old 09-12-2007, 06:31 AM
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Trans flush or not to flush?

Iím sure many of you have heard the stories about the person who flushed the trans at a higher mileage (above 100k) and had the trans fail shortly after. The guy before me had the same school of thought because two of his fathers work trucks had that happen. I picked up the truck Monday night and I want to go through it this weekend. The fluid isnít burnt smelling but it doesnít have that nice bright red look that new fluid does. So unless the owner before him that owned it until 50k miles flushed the fluid, it has 110k on it. Most of which is highway without a trailer. The truck was used very little to tow and it shows. The hitch is like new, I donít think a receiver was ever put in it.

Iím leaning for complete flush because I feel if it fails when flushed it was very weak already. If it fails Iíll just put in a ford reman over the winter. Anyway, any thoughts, comments, or personal experiences would be welcomed.

Do you guys usually user mercon V for your flush?
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Old 09-12-2007, 06:41 AM
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Yes I guess you can use Mercon V now. Have whoever is doing the flush use a couple few extra courts and flush some before you change out the filter. You do hear those horror stories and it makes you wonder if they didn't have problems before they flushed hoping that would fix the problem. My oponion is change it.
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Old 09-12-2007, 06:41 AM
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i had my tranny flushed a while back. probably a year or more ago. it made a diffrence in the way it shifted. but it's back to the way it was now. i had it flushed with less than 100k, probably 70-80k. but i'm thinking about it again with 127k on it.
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Old 09-12-2007, 06:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vitalidle View Post
Yes I guess you can use Mercon V now. Have whoever is doing the flush use a couple few extra courts and flush some before you change out the filter. You do hear those horror stories and it makes you wonder if they didn't have problems before they flushed hoping that would fix the problem. My opinion is change it.
Yea that exactly what I'm thinking. Likely it was trannies that were weak already. I'm going to be dropping the pan this weekend and draining the TC. If I have a problem it will suck but so be it, it was probably weak already if that is the case.

In my car I could definitely notice the difference when changing out the fluid after just 30k. But then again it's a modified car with about 550 hp.
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Old 09-12-2007, 06:52 AM
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What year is your truck. I think 2000-2001 was the last year your able to drain the torque converter.
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Old 09-12-2007, 06:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vitalidle View Post
What year is your truck. I think 2000-2001 was the last year your able to drain the torque converter.
It's a 2000. I'm going to check for a plug before I drain. If it doesn't have one I'll have to bring it to a shop to use a power flush or use the trannie cooler lines to let it pump it's self out. Which line is the feed line on the trans cooler?
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Old 09-12-2007, 06:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vitalidle View Post
What year is your truck. I think 2000-2001 was the last year your able to drain the torque converter.
But if you have the system flushed wouldn't all of the old fluid from the Torque Converter get flushed at the same time during the flushing process? I am asking cause I don't know but would like to know. When I got my truck it already had 109K on it. The first thing I did was had the trans flushed, tranfer case fluid changed and differentials serviced.
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Old 09-12-2007, 07:00 AM
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Yes it does but it sounds like he was going to change out his fluid by himself? Not sure though. If you are having it flushed then yeah don't drain your torque converter.
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Old 09-12-2007, 07:01 AM
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Yes I am going to do it myself. I can't remember the last time I paid anyone to work on any of my vehicles.
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Old 09-12-2007, 07:05 AM
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Here is a good diy article for trans flush:

Note: This article was revised on 12/5/2001.

Changing ATF in a '99-up SuperDuty

I've done this alone. It's easier with a second person, and sometimes helps prevent spills.

1. Things you need to get started:
a. The transmission system holds almost 18 quarts of ATF, and you must waste a couple of quarts to be sure you get it all purged and replaced, so buy 20 quarts of MERCON ATF . You may use either conventional or synthetic, as long as it meets the above requirements.
b. A 10 foot length of clear tubing and one hose clamp, sized to fit over your cooler hose. There have been different size cooler lines over the years, so check before buying!
c. If you don't already have a special funnel that fits into the transmission dipstick tube, then you will need one of those, too.
2. Drain the pan, then replace and tighten the drain plug.
3. Pour 7 quarts of new ATF into the filler [dipstick] tube.
4. Disconnect the transmission-fluid return line at the transmission - from where the ATF returns to the transmission from the cooler. This is the line towards the rear of the transmission. Clamp the clear tubing over the line that you removed from the transmission. This is where the old ATF from the torque convertor and coolers will come out.
5. This is where the second person comes in handy. One person starts the engine, while the other holds the line over the drain bucket. A clothes pin can replace the person holding the line in the bucket.
a. Run the engine until you see some air in the clear tubing. As soon as you see air shut off the engine.
b. While the engine is running in step 5a above, move the shifter through each position from P to 1, pausing about 5 seconds at each position. This will change some fluid that would otherwise be trapped in the valve body, accumulators, and clutches.
c. Refill through the dipstick tube with 6 quarts of new ATF. (That's 13 quarts total so far).
6. Repeat steps 5a and 5c. (That's 19 quarts total so far).
7. Remove the clear line and reconnect the cooler line to the transmission.
8. Check the fluid level and use the last quart of ATF to top off.
9. Properly dispose of the used transmission fluid.
10. Congratulate yourself! And your engine starter/killer person.
11. Then get back in the '99-up forum and tell us your "lessons learned" for those that follow you.


Now that we understand the basic procedure, let's muddy the water with the options:

Optional: Change the tranny filter. Revise paragraph 2 above to read:

2. Drain the pan, remove the pan, replace the tranny filter, install the pan, then replace and tighten the drain plug.
Don't buy a new pan gasket. The original is reusable.
I replace the transmission filter every other fluid change. Note that Ford does not recommend ever changing the filter. I've opened filters with over 300,000 miles that were not even close to being clogged.
It just pulls out, there are no bolts that hold it. It is held in place by the pan. Make sure that the O-ring is removed, too. Sometimes it does not come out with the filter.

Optional: Drain the torque convertor. Add the following to paragraph 2 above:

If your truck was built before August, 2001, then you may have a drain plug in the torque convertor. If you do, then you can also drain the torque convertor as part of step 2 above. Some people think it is necessary, but I don't. Running the engine in the next steps will pump the fluid out of the torque converter. If your transmission was built after August 2001, you don't have a drain plug in the torque converter.
To drain the torque converter remove the shield (but NOT the upper right bolt - this one only needs to be loosened) and turn the flywheel until you see the drain plug. If you drain the torque convertor, be sure to replace the drain plug before you continue.
If you drain the torque convertor, then the old ATF won't come out of the end of the cooler line until the torque convertor is filled with ATF. So instead of waiting until you see air bubbles in the drain line in step 5a, run the engine for about 30 seconds while changing gears for step 5b, then cut off the engine.

Optional: Blow out the coolers. Add the following to paragraph 4 above.

It's not necessary, but some folks want to get every possible drop of the old ATF out of the system before they add new ATF. If you drained the torque convertor, then you might also want to blow the ATF out of the coolers and cooler lines. If you have an air compressor, you can reduce the pressure to about 15 PSI, remove the cooler "hot" line from the front of the tranny, and blow air into that line. That will force the ATF in the coolers and lines out the cooler return line at the back of the tranny. DO NOT use air pressure of more than about 15 PSI! Then be sure to reconnect that line before you continue with paragraph 5.

Optional: Don't even drain the pan!

The tranny pump will get almost all of the ATF out of the pan, so some folks don't even drain the pan before they begin. Move paragraph 4 up to the top before paragraph 2, then instead of draining the pan paragraph 2 would say you simply run the engine until you see air bubbles in the drain line.
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