Auto Locking Hubs explanation - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 25 Old 01-24-2012, 12:05 PM Thread Starter
Powerstroke.org Rookie
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 4
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Cool Auto Locking Hubs explanation

Ok Ive gone through a lot of threads here and cannot find an answer to my question.

I have a 2001 F250 7.3 Diesel. I just replaced both auto locking hubs and wheel bearings. All tested fine and according to my mechanic, all is working normally. I want to know if 4WD low engagement is the same as getting out of your truck and locking the hubs manually. If I have my hubs in the "auto" position, why do I still have to get out and rotate the hubs into manual. Some people are telling me that because of limited slip differential that I dont have full 4WD until I get out and change the hubs to manual. So my question is why have auto locking hubs if I still have to manually change the hubs.

It seems like I have half 4WD until I lock the hubs myself. Then its great. I've gotten stuck in snow many times thinking I have engaged 4WD when I haven't.
Its frustrating when everyone with 4WD is just plowing past you.

Thx anyone

wopr21
wopr21 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 25 Old 01-24-2012, 12:23 PM
Premium Member
 
Term3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Edmonton, Alberta Canada
Posts: 3,957
Thanks: 0
Thanked 34 Times in 32 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Feedback Score: 1 reviews
Ok here's my understanding, as for 4WH or 4WL has nothing to do with the hubs that is just a gear change in the transfer case. As for the auto hubs if you are going in reverse it is possible to un-engage a wheel depending which wheel has the most traction and for driving forward is I believe the opposite. Manually locking of the hubs locks them to the axel but then unless you have a limited slip or a locking diff you are still spinning the tire that has the least traction. Like I said, this is my understanding, I could be wrong.

SCT, no studs...yet, Dual OEM intake air filter housings, Banks intercooler & intake elbow, Banks exhaust system, Windrunner ported intake manifold, Bullet Proof Diesel remote oil cooler & thermostat, AirDog2 (plus a couple spares), Power steering filter (Amsoil dual-bypass), MagTec deep ATF pan, Electric oil pre-lub pump, Dakota Digital gauges.
Term3 is offline  
post #3 of 25 Old 01-24-2012, 12:30 PM
Member
 
whitextreme's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Philadelphia, PA
Posts: 88
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
High and low are just in the transfer case. If you have to get out and engage the hubs manually you have a vacuum leak or the switch by the vacuum pump that controls the hubs is bad.
whitextreme is offline  
post #4 of 25 Old 01-24-2012, 12:32 PM
Compression Ignition Addict
 
jtk27's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Pauls Valley, OK
Posts: 241
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Term 3 has a pretty good understanding. 4L and 4H is a gear change in the transfer case. Stick it in low and you'll see. The hubs auto lock but as with any open/limited slip differential the least traction is the easiest to spin and it will. Locking them in locks them both, but this is harder on your components because nothing gives. Auto-lock is fine for 90% of the situations manual lock is your maximum traction but harder on your stuff for driving distances.

05 F250 King Ranch PSD 4x4
-ARP head studs with factory ford gaskets
-Updated oil rail plugs
-Liberator diesel Y-pipe
-SCT X3 Custom tuned by Eric
-Dieselsite Coolant filter kit
-High Idle Mod
-Edge Insight CS w/EGT
-Sinister EGR Delete
-Prestige Remote Start
-Upgraded turbo drain tube
-Upgraded HPOP connection
-Blue spring kit

South Central Oklahoma Ranch Hand Accessory Dealer
jtk27 is offline  
post #5 of 25 Old 01-24-2012, 12:42 PM
Member
 
whitextreme's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Philadelphia, PA
Posts: 88
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Since the auto hubs only run off of one vacuum line shouldn't they be both be locked when the truck calls for 4 wheel drive if the system is working correctly? I didn't think that there was any difference between the auto and locking them if they work. Please shed some light on this if I am wrong.
whitextreme is offline  
post #6 of 25 Old 01-24-2012, 12:59 PM
Compression Ignition Addict
 
BryceB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 1,617
Thanks: 36
Thanked 17 Times in 16 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by whitextreme View Post
Since the auto hubs only run off of one vacuum line shouldn't they be both be locked when the truck calls for 4 wheel drive if the system is working correctly? I didn't think that there was any difference between the auto and locking them if they work. Please shed some light on this if I am wrong.
Yes, both hubs lock. the dash knob is just a vacuum operated way of locking the hubs to the end of the axle and also shifts the transfer case. just locking the hubs manually does not put you in 4x4 becasue it does not shift the transfer case (the magic knob on the dash does that too). A full manual 4x4 set up, the transfer case would be shifted with a lever and the hubs would have to be manually turned.

Unless you installed a limited slip differential in your front axle, you don't have limited slip in the front, just the rear axle. AFAIK, LS was not an option or our trucks in the front axle. So forget about LS in your front.

Locking the hubs (either with the automatic vacuum method on the dash or getting out and turning the knobs) locks your wheels/hubs to the axles. the differential is still a differential. It does not lock the 2 halves of the axle together. The wheel with the least amount of traction will get the most power in an open differential type set up.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

2001 Ford F-250 SD CCSB 7.3 PSD - AIS Intake, Zoodad,
MBRP 4" XP Series Exhaust w/ Muffler, HD4R100, 26 row Trans Cooler, Fumoto Valve,
285/75R16E BFG AT KO, Pioneer AVIC-Z130BT Nav, BOYO VLT-422C Back Up Camera,
Scangauge II, Glowshift 3 Gauge Pod (EGT,TFT,Boost), PHP FU Chip, Huskyliners, Huskyliner Mud Flaps, Warn Premium Hubs, Riffraff Boots/Clamps/inserts
Dyno'd at Mo's Speed Shop 11/3/12 - 307rwhp / 651rw ft-lbs <<<--- On PHP 120Race tune
BryceB is offline  
post #7 of 25 Old 01-24-2012, 02:14 PM
Powerstroke.org Rookie
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 1
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
check your vac lines for good seal mine had dry rotted, i cut the ends off and reused them work great now
16cat is offline  
post #8 of 25 Old 01-24-2012, 04:07 PM Thread Starter
Powerstroke.org Rookie
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 4
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Lots of great feedback on this. Thanks everyone.
I still would like to know why there is such a thing as "auto locking hubs" if I still have to get out and lock them manually. Kinda defeats the purpose of have the auto lock option.

If the system is working properly, will I see the knob on the will hub move to the manual position?



wopr21
wopr21 is offline  
post #9 of 25 Old 01-24-2012, 04:11 PM
Premium Member
 
Term3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Edmonton, Alberta Canada
Posts: 3,957
Thanks: 0
Thanked 34 Times in 32 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Feedback Score: 1 reviews
Nope all internal.

SCT, no studs...yet, Dual OEM intake air filter housings, Banks intercooler & intake elbow, Banks exhaust system, Windrunner ported intake manifold, Bullet Proof Diesel remote oil cooler & thermostat, AirDog2 (plus a couple spares), Power steering filter (Amsoil dual-bypass), MagTec deep ATF pan, Electric oil pre-lub pump, Dakota Digital gauges.
Term3 is offline  
post #10 of 25 Old 01-24-2012, 04:14 PM Thread Starter
Powerstroke.org Rookie
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 4
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
So I guess if I'm going to need real 4WD , I'll need to plan ahead and lock the wheels manually. True?

wopr21
wopr21 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Tags
auto locking hubs

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome