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Injector noise? Cackle?

23K views 32 replies 6 participants last post by  jshalala 
#1 ·
So I've def been down on power lately and noise seems a lot worse than
Usual. It started yesterday when I was running late I usually baby it when cold I get a lot of scary noise and don't know what it is. I don't like not knowing it scares me. Anyways yesterday was the first time I've heard this noise and would really like to know what it is ( ps first time I heard this it was much worse than this time"") well anyways hoping for feedback truck has been cold both times and is stock besides straight pipe early 99:icon_ford:
 
#4 ·
Just post a link.
better than nothin!!! Lol
 
#5 ·
Ok here we go just let me know how it sounds really hard to hear what I'm talking about
 
#6 ·
I didnt hear anything unusual.

Don't rely on me though!!! Lol
 
#8 ·
Anything from air in the lines, crappy fuel, old oil, fuel pressure, etc. Sounds fine to me as well. mine is MUCH louder.
 
#10 ·
Do you only notice the cackle when the truck is cold meaning not up to operating temp?

Do you have hard cold starting issues?

If you answer yes to the above questions you may have a injector or serveral injectors starting to stick a little or possibly alot.

The only way to properly trouble shoot sticking injectors is on a cold engine you will need to remove the valve covers and look at the oil spouts when it is running you should see an even amount of oil coming from all injectors. If one has constant flow that is a bad injector, no oil flow is a bad injector. A good injector will just spit some oil as it fires
the injector.
I could not hear too much on the video as the others.

I drove a truck with bad injectors in it and my truck has injectors that are sticking when cold.

When it is cold out there may be a valve on your truck that will create exhaust back pressure to aid in the warming up the engine. If your truck has that it causes a loss of power until warmed up to operating temp.
 
#11 ·
ok so injector noise was really bad for some reason?bad gas? and i was kinda freakin out the night before this i kinda got on it while cold it sounded like there was on injector that was heading for the moon i was also considering i have been making a lot of short trips being short on work an all but injector noise was rediculous i think it was bad gas cause i put some new gas in and back to normal, but still problems? sticky injector? i get a knock sometime barely on the throttle? and yes all these probs happen when cold. so i wish i knew about cheching the injectors with valve covers off cause i had them off recently to do injector o-rings is this the only way to check injectors? should i do a buzz test or will that not tell me? yes i have had a lot of cold start issues lately. will a buz test work when cold? ohh i could keep going but i guess ill see what i get from this and go from there?
 
#13 ·
The buzz test is mainly to check the eletrical part the best way to see if you have sticky injectors is look at the oil squirting out of the spouts. If you look at the injector on the top side of each injector there is a little spout.

It is the little metal piece mounted to the injector hold down.
You can do a cylinder contribution test but it should be done when the truck is cold. The only issue is you need a good scanner tool to do this.
 
#14 ·
snap on mt2500 is good right? only issue is getting it while truck is cold guess i could borrow grandmas car to get it. what am i looking for?
 
#16 · (Edited)
I think it should do it. The mt2500 is a solus correct?
Get the scanner set to do the engine contribution test prior to starting the truck.

During the test do not hit the acclerator pedal unless told to.

Your truck will stumble during the test.

If the truck does not stumble on a paticular cylinder note that as you will need to futher test that cylinder.

If the truck does not stumble on that cylinder means you usually have an issue with the injector for that cylinder.

What the cylnder contribution test does is kills each injector one at a time and it should stumble when it kills that injector.

Then watch the scanner it will run the test and display the results.
Just for kicks after that test run the buzz test and listen carefully all injectors should buzz the same if one does not buz then you have a bad injector or wire leading to it.
If you hear a faint buzz on any then you have one going out or a wire issue.

After all those test go ahead and let the truck warm up and do koer,koeo tests.
See what codes if any it will find.
Make sure with each test you write down all results / codes.
 
#17 ·
Ooohhh boy here we go

koeo:po475--po705--p1298
koer:p1705
cylinder contrubtion:po284
did again:p1249--p1670--po475--po603--po478--po470--po705
continuous memory:same as above^
glowplug test:p1249--p1670--po475--po603--po478--po470--po705
essentially same dif order
Buzz test P1298-- first buzz was much louder and longer rest the same

considering i havnt worked in a month paid for x-mas and am now paying my x weekly i dont know if i should pretend i never saw this!

:eek:hnoes::eek:hnoes::eek:hnoes::eek:hnoes::eek:hnoes::eek:hnoes::eek:hnoes::eek:hnoes::eek:hnoes::eek:hnoes:
 
#23 ·
Ok the P0475 EBPV may have been set if the truck was not warmed up to operating temp.
Po705 not familiar with TR sensor P1705 is TR sensor again
P1209 says bad Injector driver Module that is near the battery on drivers side you may want to shake it and see if you hear water in it.
P1249 waste gate is it hooked up? should be a line on the side of the turbo
P1670 not familiar with that one but says it ir EF signal
PO475 PO478Po470pull off sensor located behind idler pulley and check the tube for soot you may need to remove the tube to clean it out. If you have issues finding it trace the small line coming off of the passenger side exhaust manifold.
It could be leaking from holes in the tube or just plain clogged. You will need weedeater line and carb cleaner to clean out the soot.
PO603 kam error usually caused by loss of power / unhooked battery

So the biggest issues is you have something wrong with the IDM and plugged EBP line and possible sensor

Then the TR sensor EF signal maybe someone else can help you with that one.

Hope this helps you
I am thinking you will need to get a IDM but wait and let others chime in on their opinion. I went to school for diesel stuff but I do not claim I know it all.
Here is were I got the info on the codes Ford Powerstroke Diesel DTC OBDII Diagnostic Trouble Codes- Powertrain P Codes | Superdutypsd.com
 
#18 ·
You might want to clear all codes and try again.
Some may be there from previous problems.
 
#19 ·
They were cleared not that long ago and my gas mileage seems almost half what it use too never mind the lack of power. Anyways i will clear and retest on the cold start tomorrow
 
#20 ·
Well if you had cleared them recently then it is probably just a wasted step.
Just thought i would mention it.
 
#22 ·
Well if you had cleared them recently then it is probably just a wasted step.
Just thought i would mention it.
__________________

Any help is very much appreciated :icon_ford:
 
#24 ·
Ok so did it again this morn cleared codes :koeo:po475--po705
cylinder contribution:po284
Buzz test:po475--po705
koer wont work cause of the trans range can't tell it is in park : Is this just a sensor?
No idm code: is there a way to check IDM besides shaking for water?
Truck was driven for an hour yesterday before test so it was up to temp
wastegate is connected
I gues im gonna start by cleaning the ebpv tube and taking a look at the IDM: Can I plug and play with the better one?
Also checked codes through GEM and got KOEO :B2357--C1446--b1352
Continuous memory:b1450--b1352--b1318--b1217--b1438--b1310--b1300--b1438
Do you guys think it's just a bad GEM?
The icp is .8 at idle and holds at 3.44 wot. Map at idle is 1- 2.22 wot Map hertz is 0 This all seems good?
 
#25 ·
Ok so the MAP should be getting a hertz reading correct? I unplugged it got better throttle response but nothing crazy
 
#26 ·
After actually driving it some more no more top end but the lower end power is much much better I use to have to go past half pedal to get up to speed but now I barely half to touch it I am pretty positive this is where my gas miledge was going
 
#29 ·
Ok this is where my brain starts mixing gas and diesel!!! Lol
a gas engine needs the map because of running with a vacuum. Diesels dont have vac
so is that a sensor that is critical? On a gasser, if a critical sensor fails (unhooked) the ecm goes into
a limp in mode which runs on factory set parameters just to get the vehicle to a shop.

Is this possibly the same senario?

I dont want to hijack the thread, just trying to understand the diagnosis!!!
 
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