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Loss of power when towing ('01 7.3 powerstroke)
I'm having power loss problems when towing. I own a 2001 7.3 F250 Powerstroke. When hauling a 2-horse trailer, going uphill I loss power. I pushed down on the pedal to try and excelerate, but the truck down shift and would not gain any power and was blowing smoke. Once I topped the hill, there was no problem excelerating. In another instance, I was excelerating onto the freeway and punched my pedal and the truck got stuck in a down shift and would not go any faster, until I let go of the pedal and slowly excelerated to a higher speed. Does anyone know what my truck problem might be???? HELP!!!
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sounds like either a boost or exhaust leak. air filter might be creating a restriction as well
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Mine does the same crap. It runs strong but, if I lay into it on an off ramp it will hold at @ 3300 untill I let off it then it will shift and I can lay back into it and it moves on out...Its like its maxed out in that gear but wont shift to the next one..It WILL NOT upshift untill I let off the throttle just a tad.. I have 2 buddies with the same exact problem..Boost is not the problem as buy the gauge it makes plenty...as for the uphill thinng It happend to me ones as well when I first got it...now I have to "anticipate" the hill...anybody on here who has ever driven a "318" detroit will know just what I mean
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I had the exact same issue.
This is most likely a fuel pressure problem if you are confident of boost. You need to check for a boost leak first as well as leaky up pipes. If all is well thre, install a fuel pressure gauge. I would guess it's a faulty fpr, but you need to rule out the fuel pump and clogged pickup. Get a gauge on there and check while towing. Fpr rebuild from diesel orings was $60 and fixed my issues. Let me know if you need troubleshooting methods. |
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Trouble shooting methods would be great. I have limited 7.3 experience. I currently have hold of an 02 F450 with this same but intermittant issue. I first saw the truck with a half dozen codes in it starting with a system voltage code. One battery was dead and the other was marginal at best. Replaced both batteries and test drove. Truck was fine. A month later here I am. This thread is his complaint. I picked truck up and drove it in 20 miles to shop. It ran smooth but felt under powered. Pulled codes, had an ICP above/below desired code and a KAM code. I assumed the KAM was from the battery replacement but thought it should have been gone by now. I ran a contribution test and got a cyl 3 fault. Ran a buzz test and got no codes. Both KOEO and KOER tests are good without codes. I will admit to going home at this point to pick up the trail tomorrow. I thought I heard a boost leak during the KOER test but have not looked for it yet. I was thinking fuel pressure and/or fuel volume because of the fuel pump making a fairly nasty gargling sound from under the truck while fiddling around with the scanner. It has not reset any codes since I cleared them. Am I on the right track and as there any magic advice? ![]() Sorry again for the lengthy hijack and thank you. |
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I have a feeling I have other problems too...Like an HPOP or bad injector...after the truck sits overnight the morning l go to start it reguardless of temp I have to watch the oil gauge...if it does not come up with in a few seconds I have to feather the throttle otherwise the truck will die. Then its a crank fest after which when it finally comes to life it misses and runs like crap for 10 miles or so....I have alread burned up 2 starters in 3 years When mine runs on the highway tho it will pull a house over from 30 to 90mph...power really does not seem to be a big issue, its that not shifting is what puzzles me. (along with my starting issue) I can hold it to the floor and it maxes out..then when I let up off it for a split second it up shfts and l step back on it it will flat out get it.
Last edited by drummondracing; 01-03-2012 at 05:49 PM. |
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Sounds like you have a leak in the high pressure system. Any oil in the valley? Could be HPOP or ICP. you must track it down and fix it. I was able to find a ford bulletin recently that had the procedure and its not that difficult. Its an O-ring fix usually. Ignore the KAM code. I'm also inclined to ignore the cyl 3 fault as 3 and 8 seem to have issues with the new CPS. You need to check for codes (which you have). Follow the code and fix issue You need to check for boost leaks using a leak detector (search for DIY). You need to check for up pipe leaks (search and read up) You need to check fuel pressure (expensive but absolutely required.) If all of those troubleshoot within spec, its a bigger deal somewhere else |
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