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Old 12-16-2011, 11:00 PM
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Truck Maintenance

Hey Guys a few quick questions, I bought F350 a few weeks ago, truck came with a super lift on it and 22.5 Alcoa, since ive been driving it, it seems like there is some play in the steering, so i took it to a local semi dealer to have them take a look at it, Here is what they are saying it needs and cost, and well since i dont know much about lifted trucks, i would probably assume these components wear out reasonable faster then stock suspension, anyways tell me if these guys numbers are unrealistic or if there accurate.... Ill add a pic of the truck so everyone can understand the lift i am talking about, real quick its a 6" in front, 8" in rear made by super lift, and also i had them add in a radiator because down by the drain plug it looks like it had a small crack in it at one time and well it looks like some one jb welded or black tarred it some how, it doesn't leak or drip, if anything a small amount of fluid just seems to form on the out side of it... Should i replace it??

estimate as follow

stabilizer shock - 69.90
R/H tie rod - $150.80
Left and Right drag link and sleeve 137.50 + 91.35 + 43.50
wheel alinement - $ 65
New Radiator - 341.94

Labor 5 Hours at 96.00/ Hr

Total of 1,379.94

Also, I was told the truck has a programmer on it, but i have looked under the hood, under the dash.... i was told it was a chip that was put into it... so where in the hell would i find where that chip would be??

also thanks for all the input a head of time
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Last edited by mymileager; 12-16-2011 at 11:20 PM. Reason: forgot something
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  #2  
Old 12-17-2011, 12:56 AM
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I wouldn't replace the radiator unless your loosing coolant. A programer is a device you plug into the OBD2 port and upload a program to the PCM, you typically remove it after changing the tune. If you have a tuner, it will be plugged into the PCM. Check the box right above the ebrake for any cables coming out of it.
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Old 12-17-2011, 06:44 AM
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For the work they claim you need the 5 hours seems like too much time however if that is what the book says it takes then you will have to pay for that many hours.
The stabilizer shock you can change yourself if you want to that is the shock laying sideways on the steering componets on the front. Two bolts fairly quick job.
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Old 12-17-2011, 06:55 AM
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ya i did happen to see where that was located when the mechanic was talking to me about the suspension.... What shock would you recommend? everyone i have talked to said to go with moog parts...
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Old 12-17-2011, 07:02 AM
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Hey also 2 quick question... i have a 4"dp that leads to my 5" dual stacks... i want to install a exhaust brake to the truck, who makes a quality product for a good price and do they make them in the 4"

and i was talking to another ford guy and he told me when i do my oil change to make sure i do my oil reserve on the top of the motor? is this common? I always use amsoil diesel oil and he was telling me about running a Mobile synthetic 1 oil filter because it has some type of valve inside of it that allows it to always hold oil in it so on cold start ups it gets the oil up to the motor faster... any input on this would be great thanks

Last edited by mymileager; 12-17-2011 at 07:10 AM.
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Old 12-17-2011, 10:35 AM
SyN SyN is offline
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M1 makes a very good Oil Filter: The growing trend right now is Donaldson ELF7405...This is {ONE} of the Best spin-on filter a person can buy for our 7.3L... Notice I didn't say -->THE BEST! It holds 2extra quarts of oil.... So you will buy 4 gallons for an oil change... With twice as much filter media you can even extend your OCI as long as your UOA shows that you can... The choice is yours... Motorcraft & M1 are both great filters..

Oil filter, ELF7405, Donaldson

Congrats on the 7.3L... If you have plans on keeping the truck for many yrs to come... Think about a Total Coolant Flush and Pouring in Red ELC Coolant CAT EC-1 and a Coolant Filter... You never have to worry about testing your coolant for SCAs with test strips... Or adding SCA additive... Just add an extender @ the 300k mile mark...

Sorry I didn't give advice with your many other questions... I don't have a tuner or chip, nor a lift... And you already know mechanics are meant to rape you... {Not All} but most...

I think DP Tuner has a program that acts like an exhaust brake...I have read excellent reviews...

Last edited by SyN; 12-17-2011 at 10:43 AM. Reason: I don't know
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Old 12-17-2011, 03:03 PM
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I don't know much about it but from what I heard is the decel tunes can put to much back pressure on the motor and float a valve. If I am incorrect on that someone correct me as i dont want to give false info. I've heard not a common thing but I just know with my luck my truck would be the one that it would happen to.
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Old 12-17-2011, 06:31 PM
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where can i find those oil filters at? are they only a online or can i go to somewhere to buy? also can you tell me more about the red coolant and where i could find that and tell me a little bit more about how it works...
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Old 12-17-2011, 06:37 PM
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Hey quick question.... on my drivers side rear dually fender both of my marker lights are out front and rear but my passenger side is working.... I replaced one of the bulbs thinking they just burnt out but i still got nothing... is there a fuse or something under the hood for each side of the truck for indicator lights
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Old 12-17-2011, 06:58 PM
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I dont see anything other than the alignment that you couldn't do in a reasonable time with basic handtools. I woundn't take the raping myself, but thats me.



As for the ex-brake.....

From the php website....

**************************************************
Do you offer a "decel" or "exhaust brake" calibration?
Simply put, no, we don't because it goes against our business philosophy which, in part, is to provide safe, reliable products to our customers.

For those who don't know, this is a calibration that uses the EBV (Exhaust Backpressure Valve) as a makeshift exhaust brake. While this setup may work reasonably well for lightly loaded vehicles, we generally do not recommend this type of calibration... at least not for automatic transmission vehicles. There are a few reasons we don't recommend this.

First, in order to transfer the energy of the moving vehicle to the engine during deceleration, two things must occur: the torque converter must remain locked, and the coast clutch must be engaged. The problem with this is that the coast clutch on a stock transmission only has 3 friction plates, and these are smaller than the standard forward clutches. On 2001 and later transmissions, you also run the possibility of damaging the intermediate sprag or "diode," which will result in an immediate transmission teardown. Again, lightly loaded vehicles would have less of a problem with this, but the general idea of an exhaust brake is to be able to slow larger loads without overheating the standard brake system. It is these types of loads that can cause transmission damage. Obviously, a manual transmission would be free from these types of situations.

Second, whenever you increase exhaust backpressure, you need to make sure that the exhaust valve springs are capable of preventing the pressure in the exhaust system from lifting the exhaust valve from the valve seat, as this would result in a collision with the piston. Normal valve spring seat pressure is 70-75 PSI for NEW valve springs and deteriorates from there. Given that the surface area of the back of the exhaust valve is approximately 1.9 square inches, it would take only 40 PSI of exhaust pressure to lift the valve off the seat, even with new valve springs.

To put it simply, if you plan to use an exhaust brake, either through the use of the EBV or by purchasing an aftermarket stand alone unit, you will need to consider the condition of your transmission and exhaust valve springs in order to ensure safe, reliable operation.



Last edited by floorboy; 12-17-2011 at 07:02 PM.
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