Prep Pump Filter Waxing- Cold Temps

[AlaskanEngineer]

Alright, considering the Hutch Mod & gutting the in-tank pickup screen and replacing it with a pre pump fuel filter on my frame rail, similar to this setup http://www.rocketcityrockcrawlers.co...2008-02-25.pdf -- however I would just do the pre-pump filter using the 3406 (12 micron) filter/water separator as I am not doing a fuel bowl delete.

My question is: has anyone had experience with this at colder temperatures (and by colder I mean less than -30F (ideally -60F or so) -- I drive at least 6 weeks a year in temps colder than -35F and I am concerned that without a filter heater element I will be setting myself up for failure... I use Power Service and/or Howes anti gelling additive every fillup at those temps, but I need to be certain it will work or find a heated element too.

[rufushusky]

Originally Posted by AlaskanEngineer

Alright, considering the Hutch Mod & gutting the in-tank pickup screen and replacing it with a pre pump fuel filter on my frame rail, similar to this setup http://www.rocketcityrockcrawlers.co...2008-02-25.pdf -- however I would just do the pre-pump filter using the 3406 (12 micron) filter/water separator as I am not doing a fuel bowl delete.

My question is: has anyone had experience with this at colder temperatures (and by colder I mean less than -30F (ideally -60F or so) -- I drive at least 6 weeks a year in temps colder than -35F and I am concerned that without a filter heater element I will be setting myself up for failure... I use Power Service and/or Howes anti gelling additive every fillup at those temps, but I need to be certain it will work or find a heated element too.

What about something like this:

Universal Diesel Fuel Filter Preheater [E TIP, Inc.]

Might help?

[NCHornet]

There is no heater on the stock fuel lines. As long as you use the anti gel agents you will be fine.

[AlaskanEngineer]

I know there is no heat on the fuel lines, but the fuel lines are fairly open for flow and thus not so prone to waxing, whereas the filter bowl in the engine compartment has a heater element to prevent waxing and improve fuel viscosity entering the injectors. My big concern is since I would be placing this pump on the suction side of the pump, I could theoretically wax enough to cause a pressure drop across the filter that would drop me below the required net positive suction head for the pump, thus I would starve the pump for sufficient pressure on the suction side and cause potential cavitation and eventually damage my pump.

That being said, I am wondering if I would see an extra benefit from warmer fuel to my main fuel bowl, its always louder in the really cold weather, could reduced viscosity/poor injection be the/part of the reason?

Thanks for the E-Tip link, it got me googling the right terms, found that Racor has a lot of available options

These 2 pages are probably the best -

http://www.parker.com/literature/Rac...av_Engines.pdf

http://www.stanadyne.com/docs/pubf/99795.pdf

I think I am going to try to filter it to 10 micron as that is what I have read is in the fuel conditioning module on the 6.0 - so it should be ok - however I won't go to huge expense to get a heated one, but I will wrap and band it with a small heater pad (120VAC since I have a 75W one that I use to thaw my main fuel bowl when I get bad fuel) hooked to my 375 watt 12VDC to 120VAC inverter on a really cold day and see what the results are... if it improves considerably the noise and performance (maybe even winter fuel economy due to better injection?) I will then drop in a new filter head from Racor with heater.

For the record, here is Stanadynes filtration website:
Filtration Systems - Stanadyne

As far as NPSH, I believe that the key will be NOT running the tank low in winter, which I rarely do anyhow - only on long trips and then its immediately refilled to prevent condensation potential.

Some other nifty links for future folks who stumble on this thread:
http://www.parker.com/literature/Rac...Indicators.pdf

http://www.parker.com/literature/Rac...or_Heaters.pdf

http://www.parker.com/literature/Rac..._April2008.pdf

Racor - Diesel Spin-on Filter Assembly



http://www.parker.com/literature/Rac...0Series%29.pdf

[Muddin]

Not to hijack, but do you know of any other less expensive sources for the Parker Marine?

Thanks

[AlaskanEngineer]

(I would call some of the below shops to see if they will/can get you the model you want)

Some other sources (about the cheapest I have found in my limited perusal)

Racor Diesel Spin On Series Sailboat Supplies, Engine Parts and Boat Parts

West Marine (use search term Racor if the link for the search is broken)
Search Results at West Marine -- I think they might be your best bet... plus you probably have a local shop... if not REMEMBER THIS west marine has a policy of meet it or beat it price matching - and I can tell you from experience, here in AK where shipping from other vendors kills us, we use that a lot since they will ship store to store for free -- find a better price online and print it out (has to be from a confirmable store source - ie NOT ebay) and bring it in...

water seperator - BoatersWorld.com

More expensive, but several options for Racor Welcome to ShipStore.com


FYI - I decided to go the Stanadyne FM1000 with a 30 micron cartridge route, looking for a vendor and saving up some cash to do it, the harpoon/hutch mod all at once. Building the bracket with room for future low pressure lift pump pre 30 micron filter, as well as post final pump high pressure 5 or 7 micon FM1000 (also with heater) - the heaters I will run on a common circuit all their own with a relay/switch in cab so the heat is selectable (but triggered by ignition-on when switch set to on)

Only thing I have not figured out is if I want to tee in differential pressure gauge of sorts to determine what the filter status is. A permanently mounted fuel pressure gauge inside the cab is a definite upcoming must-do... right now the fuel gauge I have gets duct taped to the window for troubleshooting under load... very inconvenient --- just not sure I trust the electronic ones to be accurate, might go with a liquid filled gauge but get one that has a fluid isolation system (ie run glycol in cab and fuel up to the isolator which would be mounted in the engine compartment).

Just some food for thought. Dont forget isolation valves so you don't drain your lines down every time you change the filter.

Hope it helps...