steering stabilizer. Single or dual setup? - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
 
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post #1 of 10 Old 10-29-2011, 11:14 PM Thread Starter
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steering stabilizer. Single or dual setup?

Just trying to figure out whether i need a dual set-up, or whether a good after market single will do.

My truck has a 4" lift and 35's. Currently has the stock stabilizer on it which i'm pretty sure is shot. Bump steer is baddddddddddddddd.

Just got done putting bilstein 5100's all the way around.

Really would like the steering stabilizer to match the 5100's(i.e. be silver).

The dual stabilizer set-up with bilsteins costs more then i paid for the 4 5100's i have on the truck.

Would the single bilstein 5100 stabilizer be enough for my 35's to get rid of the horrible bump steer i have?

Or do i need a dual setup?

I'm definitely not really wanting to pay more for the dual bilstein set-up then i made for the 4 shocks, so i guess i'd have to go with rough country maybe if i need a dual set-up.

Jonathon or John Although technically i have a list of nicknames the length of I-95, so call me what ya like



Current Truck--1999.5 F350 ext cab short bed SRW Lariat 4x4 ZF-6. 4" lift, 35's, exhaust, intake, chip, and more.
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post #2 of 10 Old 10-30-2011, 09:05 AM Thread Starter
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Bump.



Anyonee?

Jonathon or John Although technically i have a list of nicknames the length of I-95, so call me what ya like



Current Truck--1999.5 F350 ext cab short bed SRW Lariat 4x4 ZF-6. 4" lift, 35's, exhaust, intake, chip, and more.
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post #3 of 10 Old 10-30-2011, 09:17 AM
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You bump steer could be caused by bad tie rods too. I have always ran a single moog one even when I have 46s and had no issues.

And it was about $90 at parts store with an install kit.

2002 f250 BFT Edition


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post #4 of 10 Old 10-30-2011, 09:34 AM Thread Starter
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Hmmm, hadnt thought about tie rods. Any way to tell if there bad? Im getting horrible tire wear as well, which makes it seem like maybe that is the problem

Jonathon or John Although technically i have a list of nicknames the length of I-95, so call me what ya like



Current Truck--1999.5 F350 ext cab short bed SRW Lariat 4x4 ZF-6. 4" lift, 35's, exhaust, intake, chip, and more.
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post #5 of 10 Old 10-30-2011, 09:56 AM
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Tie Rods and ball joints are probably the culprit for worn tires and loose steering. I just replaced mine an it dries like new and doesn't wear tires anymore.

I have a solo skyjacker stabilizer and it works great.


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post #6 of 10 Old 10-30-2011, 09:59 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Schnot View Post
Tie Rods and ball joints are probably the culprit for worn tires and loose steering. I just replaced mine an it dries like new and doesn't wear tires anymore.

I have a solo skyjacker stabilizer and it works great.


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Ball joints are good, just checked them.

Guess its probably tie rods

Jonathon or John Although technically i have a list of nicknames the length of I-95, so call me what ya like



Current Truck--1999.5 F350 ext cab short bed SRW Lariat 4x4 ZF-6. 4" lift, 35's, exhaust, intake, chip, and more.
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post #7 of 10 Old 10-30-2011, 12:49 PM
Don't you worry about it


 
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two ways to test tie rods
1)jack up one side of the front at a time and take the tire in your hands at 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock an push and pull and look/feel for play.
2) enlist the ball and chain to get in the truck while it's running and while your laying under the front end and get her to turn the wheel back and forth abruptly and look for play at the joints. This method is not recommended if you; A:don't trust your spouse or B:you have a large life insurance policy.
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post #8 of 10 Old 10-30-2011, 03:13 PM
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the best way to check the tierods and track bar is to have someone gently shake the steering wheel with the vehicle on the ground, the veh doesn't have to be running just the steering wheel unlocked. watch for any of the joints that have play. they'll be easy to see and feel with your hand

-Matt

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post #9 of 10 Old 10-31-2011, 01:45 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by strokinpower View Post
two ways to test tie rods
1)jack up one side of the front at a time and take the tire in your hands at 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock an push and pull and look/feel for play.
2) enlist the ball and chain to get in the truck while it's running and while your laying under the front end and get her to turn the wheel back and forth abruptly and look for play at the joints. This method is not recommended if you; A:don't trust your spouse or B:you have a large life insurance policy.
Thank you sir!

and to that ending of that, hahahaha. No worries, i have no spouse so no worries.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sinner6.0L View Post
the best way to check the tierods and track bar is to have someone gently shake the steering wheel with the vehicle on the ground, the veh doesn't have to be running just the steering wheel unlocked. watch for any of the joints that have play. they'll be easy to see and feel with your hand
Thank you sir!

Jonathon or John Although technically i have a list of nicknames the length of I-95, so call me what ya like



Current Truck--1999.5 F350 ext cab short bed SRW Lariat 4x4 ZF-6. 4" lift, 35's, exhaust, intake, chip, and more.
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post #10 of 10 Old 10-31-2011, 03:24 PM
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the stabilizer has nothing to do with bumpsteer, infact when things are in order up front you dont need a stabilizer, and most would not notice at all if one was removed...

i learned alot playing with jeeps for the past 8 years and i had a jeep with a d44 up front,35"'s with no stabilizer thats daily driven...

2000 F350 xlt 4x4 7.3, 152,000 close to stock for now

GlowShift 3in1, diamond eye 4" turbo back w/muffler,PHP 6 pos. on the way!!!

coming soon: intake...
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