Compression Ignition Addict
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Geraldton, Ont.
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You need to have a good understanding of suspension geometry before you start buying random parts (or start making suggestions). There are some replies that are simply not correct.
You won't be able to get your trac bar bolted in with 6" springs (and if you can somehow figure out a way to get it in, it shouldn't be driven like that). An adjustable trac bar, as per some suggestions, will solve that issue. On the other hand, running a longer trac bar AND a drop pitman arm doesn't make any sense and shouldn't be done! It will cause bumpsteer, which is undesirable. If you're going to run a drop pitman arm, then you should be running a drop bracket for your trac bar at the same time.
As for a sway bar.... This is important, especially for a lifted truck. Go ahead and buy some extended links. I don't have a sway bar, and we have fairly stiff trucks, so the effects aren't huge. But I am NOT suggesting you run without a front sway bar.
2001 F250 (Extended Cab, Short Box)
7.3L, ZF6 Swap
, NV271, 5.5" Lift, 37" BFG Baja Military Tires, Recentered Powder Coated H1 Wheels, DIY Intake, 3.5" Exhaust, Autometer Gauges, '05 HD Headlights, and TW Tuned!
1979 F150 (Regular Cab, Short Box)
460 BBF w/ Nitrous, C6, NP203, 14B FF Locked, HP D60 w/ Spun Inner C's, 5.13 Gears, 39.5" Boggers, Built Bumpers, Warn M12000, Built Front Radius Arms, Built Rear Shackle Flip (in progress), and much more... Build Thread/Wheeling Pics @ FSB
Last edited by Mud-Nut; 10-25-2011 at 05:58 PM.