Hydroboost Replacement - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 25 Old 10-12-2011, 03:28 PM Thread Starter
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Hydroboost Replacement

Ok so finally got around to replacing my hydroboost this past weekend i took some pictures to help you guys along that have to do it later on or need to do it but not sure how to yet.
Total time to do it 1 hour

So first Remove your airfilter and intake hoses to access everything easier.



Next you will have to unhook the Pressure lines and return line. The pressure lines screw in while the return line has a clip.




Ok so once you have those unhooked you can access the 13mm bolts to pull off the brake fluid resivore.


Ok so now the next part is pain in the butt part. You need to go back up under your dash where the PCM unit is and remove the brake light switch from the pedal and disconect the pedal from the hydroboost unit. There is a small yellow clip you have to remove.


Next after that is disconected you have to take off those 4 bolts that attach the boost unit to your firewall. The two closest to the fuel pedal are easy to take off. The other side take a little patience and maybe an arm cramp lol. All you have to do is gently move the wires to the side to get the socket on the nuts.


So once you have pulled those you can pull the unit out of the firewall.



Ok so here is the reman hydroboost compared to the one i pulled.


You will have to pull the master cylinder operating rod used in the original boost unit unless yours came brand new with one. If not use an o-ring pick to pull out. The one we got never came with the rubber boot to cover the rod to the pedal so becarful not to rip it when you take it off the orginal.





So now with that done you just slide the unit back into the fire wall, go back around and put the bolts back on under the dash. Reconect the brake pedal and the light switch. Go back up front and reattach the brake fluid resivor to the unit. Then reconect the pressure and return lines you unhooked earlier.


Replace your intake hoses and filter.


With that all you have to do is bleed your powerstrearing. For that start your truck, turn wheels all the way to one side then back to the other try not to hold agianst the wall at either end. Bring back to center turn off truck and pump brakes 4-5 times.Then check your fluid level add if needed if not your done!!
Hope this Helps guys

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post #2 of 25 Old 10-12-2011, 05:21 PM
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Always wondered, whats the blue thing attached to the original? (its black on replacement one)

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post #3 of 25 Old 10-12-2011, 05:42 PM Thread Starter
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Yea it was painted on the new one. I belive it is an accumulator

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DIY 6637 Intake
5in straight pipe to Aussie stacks
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Boost,tran,and EGT Gauges
4in lift
Some body rust and oil leaks
CB radio
Pretty Girl sittin next to me
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post #4 of 25 Old 10-12-2011, 05:47 PM
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Nice write up I would have done one when i did mine, but I'm impatient. lol

Jason

First rig: e99 F250 CCSB 4x4 auto, white, 388k miles: traded in
Then: 02 F350 RCLB SRW 4x4 zf6, silver, 201k miles, THREW A ROD : traded to Jake
Now: 96 F350 CCLB DRW 4x2 auto, red and silver/grey, 266k miles: rusty but trusty
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post #5 of 25 Old 10-12-2011, 07:20 PM
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Great job. Thanks for the pics. gonna do mine pretty soon. How did you know yours needed replaced and where did you get it from?

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post #6 of 25 Old 10-12-2011, 07:57 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jshalala View Post
Great job. Thanks for the pics. gonna do mine pretty soon. How did you know yours needed replaced and where did you get it from?

Sent from my DROID X2 using AutoGuide App

I had my brake pedal stick a little then click and the truck would run smoother and easier then sometimes it would vibrate for 4-5 seconds stop for 2-3 then do it agian till the pedal popped or something i posted on here about it and asked my dad both said hydroboost unit. I got it from Fisher Auto Parts

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E99 7.3 F-250XLT



304,345 miles and still running strong
ext cab
DIY 6637 Intake
5in straight pipe to Aussie stacks
PHP 6pos
Boost,tran,and EGT Gauges
4in lift
Some body rust and oil leaks
CB radio
Pretty Girl sittin next to me
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post #7 of 25 Old 10-12-2011, 07:58 PM
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Nice Write-up! Good Job!
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post #8 of 25 Old 07-04-2013, 07:38 AM
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Thanks for the write up. I may be doing this soon.

2002 F350 XLT 4x4 Crew Cab 7.3L (build date 11-01) - Goodyear Wrangler Duratrac 325/65/R18 mounted on KMC XD Monster 18x9 Wheels, 4 inch ProComp Lift w/ dual front shocks, Autometer Triple guage pillar pod with Autometer Sport Comp Pyro and boost gages, Autometer Ultra lite digital Trans temp gage, DP Tuner w/ in dash mounted ex switcher, AIS
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post #9 of 25 Old 07-05-2013, 06:02 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by GulfcoastSD View Post
Thanks for the write up. I may be doing this soon.
No problem, it will kill a couple hours easy

FUELED BY HATERS
Jack'em up high.Fat chicks cant jump!

E99 7.3 F-250XLT



304,345 miles and still running strong
ext cab
DIY 6637 Intake
5in straight pipe to Aussie stacks
PHP 6pos
Boost,tran,and EGT Gauges
4in lift
Some body rust and oil leaks
CB radio
Pretty Girl sittin next to me
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post #10 of 25 Old 07-05-2013, 06:38 PM
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All the parts stores have them, just have to order it. Keep all your old hardware.

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